Ok, I have a quirky thing that is going on with my 87 hijet. It cranks good, but lately sometimes when you come to a stop it will shut off and will not crank back up. It will spit and carry on while I am turning the motor over but will not crank. Sometimes it will fire every now and then, but not crank. I can go out the next morning and it will crank fine. Any ideas? The fuel filter is not stopped up and the fuel pump was replaced not long before I bought it. I am confused. Please help!
Sounds like it's flooding when you come to a stop. When it does it try starting it with the gas pedal floored if it does I'd check the float, needle and seat in the carburetor first.
When it first started this last week it would barely start with it floored. Then it started not cranking at all.
The truck did the same thing yesterday. My son rode 1/4 mi up the road to my Moms house and when he left he had to stop for a car before he pulled out and it shut off and would just turn over. This morning it cranked right up and we drove it home. I am thinking that the needle and seat is sticking or the float isnt right or all the above. What do yall think? What is the procedure for setting the needle and seat and the float? 87 diahatsu 550 engine.
Is it a USA marketed truck or Asia marketed ? (left hand / right hand drive) makes a difference, different carb. My 1st guess is plugs. Pull them and if really black change them or at least clean them up. They should be a nice light tan color. My 2nd guess is choke problem. Next time it stops running let it sit for a little bit, try and start it without any throttle, if it doesnt start pull plugs and see if they are wet. If they are wet something is open in carb. I would not think it is the float unless someone has already been in there and messing with it. Like you said, could be the needle valve sticking. I would check that. Might just go ahead and pull carb. and clean inside with carb. cleaner & blow though all the orifices. Not long ago I had a early 90 model USA marketed Hijet 550cc that would only run if you pumped the gas. Pulled the carb. and it did have some junk floating around in it. But we found that the high speed shut off valve was not working. Had it replaced and good to go. Thats why I asked if yours was a Asia or USA model. Asia trucks dont have the high speed shut off valve.
It is a US left hand drive truck. Thanks Does anybody know the correct spark plug for this truck? I am not at home to pull one to get the number.
On the USA marketed trucks they had a slow speed shut off and high speed shut off valve on the carb. The high speed will screw into the bottom of float bowl. I had one do the same thing and Wyldman had one last week. Might check the high speed valve. Disconnect the plug and back (12 or 14mm ?) it out of float bowl, hook it up to 12v and feel it open and close. Pray that its ok, that little puppy is 200.00. Plug info. My book calls for a NGKBPR6EY. The truck had NGKBP6ES in it when I got it. I oil fouled those and crossed them to a Autolite 63. Thats what I am running now and they work great. NGK BP6ES I rem
You can take those censors out and check them. I talked to Jeff at minitrucksupply.com and this is what he told me to do and it seemed to work for me. take both censors out...plug them back in, then hold one and watch it ( the little brass plunger ) go in as the key is on the out when the key is off.. Both of them do the same thing..... My problem was a combo of both with some trash in there some where now it runns like a champ...except for the charging problem were working on as we speak... Good Luck just me cent and a half cus i dont have 2 cents....lol
I took the one out on the bowl and ran 12v to it and the thing clicked but nothing happened. It is out about 1-1 1/4" out. I will try what you suggested with both. I assume you are talking about the one that sits on top of the carb that has 1 wire running to it from the same harness that operates the one that goes in the bowl. Also, before I cranked it yesterday, I took a spark plug out and it didn't look too bad but it smelled gassy. I will go ahead and change them. Keep the help coming. Thanks
What i did was take them out of the carb.....then plug them back in to their harness and physically watched them move in and out when i turned the key on and off. ( the little brass plunger inside ) The one on top is the fuel cutoff switch to keep it from dieseling, the on on bottom is the "25 mph" fuel cut off ( or down ) switch.....This is what i learned from Jeff
Ok, i will try that this afternoon. How for out does the bottom one go out? When the truck reaches 25mph does the plunger go in or out?
the little brass plunger goes in when the key is on to let fuel in.. when key is off plunger seats at the end of the censor. You can actually see it operate thru the holes in the censor.
Ok this is what I found. To start off I was looking for the big outside tube to move but found out the inside piece moves and you can see it move through the holes in each tube. Both the top and bottom valve opens and closes, that is the good thing. What I found was when I took the top valve out was the oring was not on the end of the tube, it had slid down the neck of the tube and was broke. I will get an oring tommorow. Do yall think that could have been my problem? The gas was leaking by and flooding out? I hope it can be that simple.
COOL!!!!! Those pieces are not cheap! Mine had the o-ring on it. This is what i did, just for references : i took teh breather of and put my hand over the throttle air body and choked it, it blew some old looking gas and and a few pieces of what i call dirt. I let it set cuz its really flooded now...lol I took a whole bottle of Sea-Foam and put in the tank filled it up. put the breather back on and about an hr later it fired right up, with a high idle. it ran real good until my charging problem..Now it even runs better than before...funny how a thermostat can make that much of a difference. I think but am not sure the choke is controlled by water also...Don't Quote me on that though. I did try an experiment though. i took the bottom censor out and plugged the hole with a bolt. all it would do is spit and sputter never really start and run. So the o-ring might be the thing for you.
I need a little help with the size of the o-ring that goes on the end of those two censor valves. The smallest o-ring I can find fits the ID ok but is too fat in the OD. I haven't tried it yet but they physically look too fat compared to what came off.
Here's the # out of S81LP 550cc parts book USA marketed left hand drive for seal- 21655-87201 looks like it supersedes to # 21655-87203. You can contact Jones Equipment in Ft. Worth ,Tx 817-698-0500 0r use one of the sponsors and see if they can get it. Jones Equip. still works on the left hand drives. He doesnt like to work on the Asia marketed trucks(right hand drive). The cross reference is a *&$#* to cross over to Aisa models and he doesnt have the aisa books. If you live in or close to a big city find a upper end hyd. company that builds and repair hyd. systems, they should be able to match it. By the way the seal on the other shut off valve is the same #.
Reading the first post. If its only driven a short distance then not restarting, it could be the coil on its way out.
Thanks for your input. The coil has not been long replaced before I got it. I have been talking with Leon and we have tryed several things. After it would not crank, I took the col wire off and turned the ignition and it had spark. So we think it is a gas/carb problem. I sprayed a little starting fluid and it fired and I finally managed to get it cranked, but really could not figure out the problem. The fuel pump is putting out plenty of gas into the bowl. I took the needle/seat and float assembly out and it seemed to be working properly. Maybe the float needs resetting.
Did you find a seal ? What about checking the two shut off valves in carb. Back em out and hook them up to 12v and see if they are working. Also check out your fuel pump, there's a weep hole facing the front side and if its out it will drip right between the timming belt cover and engine. Its a closed system and any air will cause problems.
No I didn't find a seal for the top solenoid valve, but Leon said it didn't matter about the top one. The fuel pump is almost new and the two valves are working, unless the bottom one is closing when its not supposed to. The bottom one only closes when the speed control under the glove box tells it to when the truck reaches 25mph, but that has been altered b/c my truck will run 55mph. I'm waiting for Leon on wednesday to talk more about my problem. I will probably end up taking it to a mechanic that does some work on the side at his house. He is real good on carbs. He already told me he would take a look at it.
OK Good news! I think we found the problem with my truck. I took it to the guy to work on it and we kind of did it together. We ran the truck and then, as usual it shut off. He listened to it as I turned it over. Then he had a gadget he put between wires to check spark. He said I had very weak spark to get a new coil first. We took the old coil off and it was labeled "for electronic ignition only". I got a standard 12v coil and we/he put it on and it fired up. As it ran I started idling it down and it shut off again. So he had me turn it over and told me we had weak spark again. He looked around the points and distributor and said it may be the condensor the points looked ok. Also, we would have to keep trying to narrow it down until we got into the distributor and hoped that wasn't it. I went and got a condensor and he installed it and it fired up and ran great. We let it sit and run for a few minutes and then I drove it down the road and back not missing a lick. I parked it and continued to let it idle with no problems. It only has a little hesitation when you accelerate and he said he thought he needed to adjust the accelerator pump and adjust the carb..lean/rich etc so I left it with him to fine tune the carb. Keep you finger crossed!
The mechanic said to just go get one for a early 70's Ford and it should work fine. Sadly I am not out of the dark yet with the truck. He said he drove it around the other day and it shut off with him. Not sure if it is spark or gas related. He's still tinkering with it. I will talk to him today.
This is just an update on my truck problems. Things are looking up. I ordered a distributor cap, rotor, points and condensor yesterday. When I got home I decided to check the timing. I didn't have a way to see if I was idleing at 950rpms, so I decided to set it at whatever it was idling at. I hooked up the timing light and plugged off the vacuum advance and pointed the light. I could see no numbers! So I started rotating the distributor and I see 10 finally starting to show. I set it at 7-8 btdc. The timing was off at least 15*. Boy it runs better. When I get my new dist cap and rotor i will reset and try to find a rpm guage where I can get the idle rpm correct at the same time.
A while back I spoke to a guy who use to race all the time.. What was interesting we talked about spark plugs .. As a racer he only used Autolite because of their design and the way they were easy to setup for his race car. Don't recall what the term was, but he would file down the plug and align them all the same to his engine to balance the spark. As a follow-up he did state the other plug manufactures such as Champion, Bosh and few others were not as well designed as the Autolite ... I have never had good results with Bosh in motorcycles or auto and would like to try a set of Autolite in my mini to see just how good they are in it .. Would that be the ASP 63 Autolite spark plug by any chance?
