I have a 1992 Hijet i have a idle issue. It dose not want to idle after i drive it arownd it will idle when i first start it. When i take the plugs out they a very wet Things i have done 1.Checked and replaced all vacuum lines 2.Removed carb and cleaned 3.Replaced spark plugs 4.Replaced plug wires 5.Replaced Fuel filter 6.Cleaned Air filter 7.Tried to adjust the carb So i want to Check Valve clearances.? My question is are these the right specs? exhaust .011" and intake at .009 .......same as .25 and .30mm... Adjust hot not cold...hot meaning when the rad fan engages,shut down and adjust? Do i need to get each cylinder to tdc? to adjust? Thanks for any help
....yes let the engine get hot till the rad fan engages. You can TDC each cylinder if you want,I prefer that method, it actually ensures the exact valve adjustments have been made...you will need to remove the spark plugs and use a (I use a wooden shishkebob skewer )long non hardened object in the plug hole to determine when each piston reaches TDC
Hepl I got the valves adjusted did not help any it runs way worse:frustration::frustration:.. no power at all Any one have any ideas of what i can do?
did you make sure you adjusted at TDC of the compression stroke? ....not being adjusted on the compression stroke can leave the valves too loose.....as you are turning theengine over by hand you want to see the piston coming up after the intake valve was last open...if the exhaust valve was the last open ,then you are on the exhaust stroke .....also seafoam the carb...it helps more than you can imagine....if you disturbed the carb. setting too much you may have the fuel shutoff vacuum valve not operating
I used a tdc tool it has a whistle on one end and a plug you put in to the spark plug socket. you can hear it whistle when it is coming up the compression stroke and and when the piston goes down it stops. then i checked the cam lobes to see if they were off the valves. But i can try it with the stick idea to. ...if you disturbed the carb. setting too much you may have the fuel shutoff vacuum valve not operating.. where is that?? Are there any standard Carb settings? so i can start adjusting it over again.
My S81 Daihatsu book says 5 and 5mm. It has the 550cc engine. I recently did a head job on a 95 S110P(660cc) with the single cam and set them at 4 and 6mm. Truck sounded good ran fine. Where did you get your #'s at ?
The way I did mine is bring to TDC on #1 and set them 4 and 6mm. Rotate engine till exhaust on #1 starts to go down, set #2 cyl. @ 4 and 6mm, rotate engine till #2 exhaust starts to go down then set #3 cyl. 4 and 6mm. I got these numbers from G and R.
Help Tried the .4mm and the .6mm Had a lot of rocker slap? noise from the rocker hitting the valve is that normal?
It sounds to me the carburetor power valve diaphragm has failed which is common on old Daihatsu. You most likely didn’t need to touch the valves in the first place unless they are clattering. You also do not need to adjust the settings on the carburetor as they do not change by themselves, only internal parts fail or gaskets leak. The correct valve settings (Cold) or “Ambient” temperature as follows • ENFS: (IN)0.18mm (EX): 0.25+-0.005mm • EFES (IN) 0.20mm (EX) 0.30+-0.05mm If you need a factory replacement carburetor we have them Cheers, Don Store: www.yokohamamotors.net Main: www.yokohamamotors.com Yokohama, Japan
EFCS is a six valve or EF# Series including EFTS, EFVS, EFXS, EFNS from 1990/04 to 1994/01 are the same specs for S82, S83. The S80, 81, 83 trucks shared the same Aisen Carburetor; the vans used a different carburetor. Use the specs I provided for the EFNS. PS. To make troubleshooting questions easier to answer please include the full vehicle VIN number. It is much simpler to answer your questions when we know what the vehicle is from the beginning. Cheers, Don Store: www.yokohamamotors.net Main: www.yokohamamotors.com Yokohama, Japan
any specs for the turbo EF-XS engine? I am hearing a little valve noise recently. I was going to try replacing the plugs but if this is my problem I might need to have the valves adjusted. I need to know what to tell my shop.
Valve out of adjustment will not cause wet plugs. Number one cause of wet plugs is too rich of a mixture, or bad valve stem seals. My first guess is the fuel vent system, and return line from the fuel pump to the tank via the emissions system. The fuel pressure is regulated to about 2-psi, by a relief valve which sheds excess pressure back to the tank. If things are messed up, there is more than 2-psi pressure in the return line so the fuel pump pushes higher pressure to the needle and seat. Then the float and needle valve aren’t strong enough to stop the fuel flow, and the fuel level in the carburetor bowl goes high enough that raw fuel flows through the overflow in the carb and drops straight into the engine. the solution is to put a small fuel pressure regulator between the pump and the carb, to keep the fuel pressure down where the carb can control it. On my Hijet I installed an electric pump back at the tank, with a self release in the fuel pump, and put a regulator up just before the carburetor. Solved my problem with the truck running way too rich, and not wanting to start when warmed up.
