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Tail light and Dash light fuse blowing

Discussion in 'Mitsubishi Minicab' started by JTruest, Dec 7, 2021.

  1. JTruest

    JTruest New Member

    When I switch the headlights on at the steering column, the front headlights turn on fine but the fuse blows killing the speedometer and tachometer dash lights and the tail lights. I’ve checked all the wiring and I can’t find any frayed wires or bad grounds anywhere on the car. My Minicab is actually super clean with barely any rust anywhere so this is really puzzling.

    If I don’t turn on the headlights and put a new fuse in, the tail lights work but weirdly, the directional signals don’t work at all.

    I guess a wiring diagram that someone might have would be helpful. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
     
  2. Limestone

    Limestone Well-Known Member

    J,
    Pretty Frustrating!
    Believe me, I know!
    Are all your grounds, clean, and properly grounded?
    Even Switches need to be grounded!
    Keep it simple, and Double check everything!
    There's no magical answer, like we'd love to tell you,
    It's a 95, and stuff gets a little tired, even, connections, grounds,Etc..................
    In past post's I explained on more than one occasion, after you've checked and cleaned,
    a connection, use Di-Electric grease to keep out future Hidden Corrosion and glazed over,
    Bad contacts!
    I know it's time consuming, but clean every contact, point, and apply Di-Electric grease!
    This way, you won't have to go back over it, and waste time doing it again!
    I can't tell you How many times I found something, by accident, that didn't make sense to me,
    in the beginning, there it was!
    A continuity tester, between point A, and B, and so on, works, as you break it down into sections!
    Test! Test! Test!
    Good Luck!
    Limestone
     
    fmartin_gila likes this.
  3. fmartin_gila

    fmartin_gila Well-Known Member

    Just by what you mentioned about the turn signals out and the rear lights acting weird, I would suspect a 1157 bulb is defective. Might be as simple as replacing the light bulb. At least it is worth a try without a diagram.

    Fred
     
    Limestone likes this.
  4. Limestone

    Limestone Well-Known Member

    I agree Fred!
    The First thing to check, is the Bulb!
    It is acting like it might be a bulb!
    So if it's blowing a fuse, what about the Bulb Socket!
    Any black, short marks there?
    Limestone
     
  5. JTruest

    JTruest New Member

    I thought the same thing but I took out both bulbs and turned on the switch and it still blew. I checked the contacts and no marks or anything. I cleaned them as well. I also took out the turn signal bulbs and the fuse blew. I've gone through a ton of fuses, haha.

    I am starting to think it's up at the combination switch where the switch is. It seems like something on that circuit board isn't sending a signal. I took off the plastic cover and took a picture of the board and there may be a fried contact but not exactly sure what it's supposed to look like. See picture attached.
     

    Attached Files:

    Limestone likes this.
  6. Limestone

    Limestone Well-Known Member

    Without being there, it's a little difficult to diagnose, but with that being said,
    when it comes to electric,
    the word Isolation always enters my mind!
    Here goes, as I'm reaching here, So does it still blow a fuse, if you remove the bulbs, and turn on the switch?
    It's possible, this system won't work without the Bulbs, as I don't recall.
    Sorry, but replacing fuses is the cost of doing bushiness! (the reason for test Equipment, saves Fuses!)
    Maybe the switch is shorting internally! Seen that before!
    With a continuity test you can teat your wires, between, points, Isolating one at a time!
    I wish that I could tell you more by looking at the Pics of the circuit board.
    Good Luck!
    Limestone
     
  7. fmartin_gila

    fmartin_gila Well-Known Member

    This is a case where patching in a piezo buzzer or small light bulb in place of the fuse will save you frustration, fuses, and time. A small bulb or buzzer will pass juice till you eliminate the problem but will not allow excess current to flow so will not overload the wiring. I prefer the buzzer because you do not have to watch it as you go about searching for the short. Being a fleet mechanic, I kept one in my tool box for years as a real help when chasing electrical problems.

    Fred
     
    Last edited: Dec 9, 2021
    Limestone likes this.
  8. Limestone

    Limestone Well-Known Member

    I agree Fred!
    Those little Buzzers really speed things up while searching,
    as these dog gone shorts can be time consuming!
    Limestone
     
    fmartin_gila likes this.
  9. Limestone

    Limestone Well-Known Member

    With what your saying, check the voltage, through the switch.
    In, and Out!
    Limestone
     
  10. GeoJoe

    GeoJoe Member

    Did you get this solved? I have something similar happening. Maybe it's related to a new stereo head unit I recently installed? Common ground?
     
  11. Jigs-n-fixtures

    Jigs-n-fixtures Well-Known Member

    Try disconnecting the rear light assemblies at the connector, one at a time, and see if it still blows. The problem could also be at the instrument cluster. I would start disconnecting things working forward until it quits blowing the fuse.

    And, being Japanese, your truck’s lights might well be ground controlled. Which can cause things to not behave as expected when trouble shooting.
     
  12. GeoJoe

    GeoJoe Member

    Thanks for the quick reply Jigs - reporting back that I indeed had my ground mixed up on my stereo install. There are a few choices for a ground wire and the first one I used was blowing the 10amp fuse that also protects the dash lights and tail lights. I adjusted to the correct ground and all is working now!
     

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