What sort of oil do you use for your engine and manual transmission? Do you use high zinc oil or a zinc additive package? Do you use conventional, synthetic blend, or full synthetic? And why? Do you run a high-mileage oil? What's your oil change interval? I see that 10W-30 is recommended, but do you typically stick to that weight? And if not, why? Also, the visor on my 95 mentions something about an exhaust cleaning system. Is it referring to a catalytic converter?
I used Royal Purple 10W-30 (3 quarts) for my engine and used Honda Genuine Manual Transmission Fluid for the gears (about 1.3 quarts). seems to be running well with both.
my mind set comes from my father who was a mechanic all his life. It really depends on how it was treated prior to you using it. Synthetics have such high detergent properties which is great with keeping an engine from sludging up. It isn't great when you have an abused engine. It will clean all those spots and potentially lead to increased oil consumption. So if its abused I would run a short interval of fully synthetic followed by a blend and change it more often. I really would only use fully synthetic in newer cars or older vehicles that have used it for its whole life. If you have a consumption problem you can try those high mileage oils that swell seals to slow down leaks. in the gear box I use Honda MTF. It doesn't get much abuse so long intervals are okay
yeaaaah I’ve heard this too and all the grease monkeys used to say this when I worked as an oil change tech at the local drive through oil change shop. More recently, with more reputable sources, I’ve heard it’s all a crock. Just use the best oil available based off the cars age and the proper weight - that’s the modern guidance I have been receiving.
quote - Also, the visor on my 95 mentions something about an exhaust cleaning system. Is it referring to a catalytic converter? -unquote post a pic of that sticker. Fluids: engine oil 10W30 full synthetic, for the automatic the original Honda ATF fluid here is an older oil thread for the Acty https://minitrucktalk.com/threads/oil-capacity-and-type-for-acty.233/
Here is the decal on the driver visor. This is well beyond my reading comprehension, so below is a transcription by Google OCR, as well as a Google translation. I did check Google's scan against the decal, and I didn't notice any discrepancies, but I don't know most of these kanji, so I could have missed something, though the translation seems to make sense as scanned.
yes, that is clear now. same on my 1988 BMW E32 750 V12, I can explain it from the system of my BMW: The Japan version cat in those days had a temperature sensor at the end of the cat and gives a warning in the cluster check control if the cat gets glowing hot. On the BMW the sensor is connected with a temperature relay and from there to the check control in the cluster. This relay is only on Japan spec cars. That was back in those days standard. They have a temperature feeler on the cat to give a warning when the cat is glowing hot (870 degree C). There is no effect on the engine control unit / engine management, just the warning in the check control. This should warn the driver that the cat glowing hot, if you look at Japans equivalent to the EPA pollution rules for cars you will see that there is a requirement for cat temp sensors as a safety device. A badly overheating cat will glow cherry red and ignite any paper or grass etc that its parked over. A lot of BMW owners which have a J-spec import ask me if the relay or the cat temp sensors are still available in Japan, NLA for the BMW, I tell them to pull the relay and then there is no warning anymore. Even when I switch the ignition on, the warning always comes in the check control, that is a standard function to test the warning system. On my BMW - which I own since 30 years - I once had such a warning while driving, it was just a defective/corroded wire from the sensor to the relay, I could repair it. Here a pic of the Degussa temperature relay for my BMW
