Does anyone have any advice for removing the fuel injectors (for cleaning purposes)? I don't see any obvious way for relieving pressure in the fuel rail. I tried applying vacuum pressure to a vacuum solenoid thing on the end of the rail but I'm not sure if it's doing anything. Any idea how to correctly relieve the fuel pressure? Also, the fuel injectors seem stuck in the ports (like there's a vacuum). What's the correct way to go about removing them after taking off the metal caps? Photo of fuel rail / injectors:
Have not done it on your model, but on other cars, to relieve the pressure might not be necessary if the engine was not running for hours, the fuel pressure goes slowly back. I even removed fuel hoses after the engine was stopped on a car with a fuel pump pressure of 3.5 bar, was not much fuel which came out of the line. Others let the engine run and remove the fuel pump fuse and let engine run till it dies from fuel starving. Do you have o-rings and other parts for the fuel injectors? Before you remove them, make sure you have them, because usually the o-rings sealing the fuel injectors to the engine get baked running for years and then get destroyed when the fuel injectors are removed, causing the engine sucking air there. I have bought for my other cars fuel injector repair kits from Bill in USA https://www.mrinjector.us/ , these were for Bosch and Lucas injectors, usually the kits have filters, o-rings, pintle caps, spacers . If you S110P fuel injectors look like the Toyota Denso, there are grommets on top and bottom, have a look here https://www.mrinjectorparts.com/store/c1/Featured_Products.html These grommets might need some force to remove the FI from the ports. Usually the cpl. fuel rail is removed with the FI based on my experience with other cars, here some pics of Hijet fuel rails with injectors https://autoparts.beforward.jp/search/DAIHATSU/HIJET/Engine---Components/Fuel-Injectors/ here is a good vid and I use the same method to remove the fuel rail with FI
Next time I'll try removing the fuel pump fuse and letting it stall. Tons of fuel came out of the banjo bolt and wouldn't stop until I opened both ends of the fuel rail by disconnecting some hoses to relieve what I think might be fluid pressure. The injectors came out easily when I used a bit of PB Blaster penetrating oil and lightly twisted a screwdriver under the edges of the injectors. Photo of the injectors for anyone who wants to know what they look like in an EF-ES s110p automatic engine: I did not buy o-rings specific to the hijet fuel injectors, but I did find some that were fairly close to the originals and the injectors seemed to fit snugly when I shoved them back into the fuel rail (I had to use silicone lubricant to get them back in). I am somewhat concerned about there being an air leak at the injectors now. The truck now has an extremely rough idle and is accelerating like it's only running on one cylinder, but it could be related to any number of things that I just did (new fuel injector o-rings, new fuel filter adapted from a 1995 toyota 4runner, new spark plugs, new spark plug wires, new distributor rotor and cap). For the fuel filter replacement, I bought MicroGard Part #33500 Line: MGD from O'Reilly in Pullman WA (link). It is the same diameter, a little bit taller, and has the exact same outlet port size as the Hijet but it needed a hose adapter on the inlet end. I ordered an M12x1.25 Banjo hose fitting from Amazon (link) which has roughly the same size hole as the current hose fitting that is on the stock Hijet fuel filter. Since it's metric you won't be able to find a brass hose fitting that fits at any hardware store in the US as far as I can tell. It clips right into the same spot as the original filter with no issues. Photos below: I have no idea if I might have messed up the fuel reaching the injectors by installing this thing. Would explain the rough idle. But everything I've read otherwise indicates that fuel filters are interchangeable.
There are many different kinds of "O" Rings on the market! It's pretty important that you installed the right "O" Rings, made out of the right fuel, gas, and oil resistant material, usually neoprene rubber! Otherwise, they will deteriorate and Fail! Limestone
The o-rings are fuel resistant. I made sure of that. I figured out the issue for the car sucking at idling and acceleration. When I replaced the distributor cap and rotor, a piece of plastic circle/cover thing in there was knocked loose and was interfering with the ignition rotor. Pulled it out, works just as it did before now. Unfortunately the truck still sucks at accelerating up hills but I'm starting to think this is just how automatic hijets are designed.
did you test the fuel injectors? https://axleaddict.com/auto-repair/How-to-Test-Fuel-Injectors-3-Simple-Methods On some long time stored cars I had the fuel injectors clogged from old gummed up fuel. Some I got working again that the injector needles started moving again. Then cleaning similar to these cheap methods Fuel injector cleaning without expensive tools
Yep, they actually clicked when I hooked up to a battery and didn't stick at all. Looked fairly clean too. Was pretty surprised. I think my fuel system is pretty okay now. The automatic transmission on the other hand...
@MrJPolito do you think this fuel filter might work for the ef-es? https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/SFI23581
The hose outlet is really close to the original size on mine but the screw hole on that filter is bigger than what mine was. I needed M12x1.25 and that one is M14x1.5. You'd need a step-up adapter with different thread spacing on one end, and metric, hard to find locally here.
Are you making this assessment based on your crummy tranny computer? I don't know what kind of hills you are climbing? My AT in regular mode seems plenty strong. And in PWR mode, it seems even stronger, but the RPMs go uncomfortably high!
Yes. It's stuck in 3rd gear in drive. It has to be shifted into L to go up hills. I live in the Palouse region of Washington State which is known for having giant dumb hills.
Actually yes that would work, definitely. Either that or another banjo fitting thing. They're effectively the same.
@MrJPolito great thanks . I think I found the right filter on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00I8J07QC?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
