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S83P Hijet / Climber (4 WD - 4x4) clutch replacement information...

Discussion in 'Daihatsu Hi jet' started by JoeBleaux, Jul 11, 2015.

  1. JoeBleaux

    JoeBleaux New Member

    Posting this in case it helps anyone.

    The Exedy clutch kit for the S83P Hijets is part number DHK-009, but Exedy doesn't supply the kit in the US. However, most of the individual components are available in the US, with part numbers as follows:

    Clutch Disc - DHD033U
    Pressure Plate (aka Clutch Cover) - DHC556U
    Throw-out Bearing (aka Release Bearing) - BRG426

    These can be ordered through any Exedy distributor. I cannot give YOUR cost (it will vary by distributor), but our cost was about $120.00 shipped. From what I can tell, the 2WD and 4WD clutches, etc. are the same.

    What I cannot find is a definitive part number for the throw-out bearing clip (the wire clip that holds the bearing into the fork) or for the spline tool. The original Daihatsu part number for the clip is either 31232-87504-000 _OR_ 31232-87506-000, and if you have the original clip as pictured below, it will work with the above BRG426 throw out bearing. There is apparently another style bearing and clip out there, but ??? The parts books shows a revised number for the bearing and required clip (via Daihatsu), but if you have the original setup, you should have the original clip.

    The spline tool really isn't a big deal. Simply finger-tighten the pressure plate bolts (with the disc under it, of course - AND MAKE SURE THE DISK IS FACING THE RIGHT WAY - it is marked), "stab" the transmission shaft into the clutch to line it up, and once the transmission bolts are back in, tighten the pressure plate bolts through the starter hole. If you need to, remove the spark plugs for easier flywheel rotation.

    One last tip on the bearing - the bearing fork was ever so slightly shifted right-to-left on the shaft (the shaft that the clutch cable arm connects to) and that would not let the bearing's ears/tabs, which retain the clip, to slip into the fork. Once the fork was shifted slightly to align with the bearing's ears/tabs, all worked fine.
     
  2. Inane2

    Inane2 Member

    Fantastic info Joe!

    Thanks for taking the time to post this.
     
  3. HiJinks

    HiJinks Member

    Thanks for sharing! Can you tell me what the signs were you needed to replace the clutch? I just picked up my ‘93 Climber and two days in, I can move the shifter and feel the gear selector working, but it’s like the clutch isn’t even there?! It happened pretty quickly, but can a clutch burn up that quickly? Thanks in advance for any help.
     
  4. Jigs-n-fixtures

    Jigs-n-fixtures Well-Known Member

    Try adjusting it first. You want about 1/4-inch of play in the throw out arm at the cable. One lock nut, loosen it and you can adjust it by hand. Should take just a few minutes. I’ve never even tried adjusting it to the specs in the manual. Just make sure you have the play at the throw out arm.

    not to be insulting. Are you sure transfer case isn’t in neutral?
     
    Last edited: Nov 27, 2021
    Limestone likes this.
  5. HiJinks

    HiJinks Member

    Don’t worry, no insults will hurt me. Yeah, I tried high, low, 4wd. Everything. By looking at other threads, I think we could be either looking at Slave or Master cylinder issues. My reasoning is, the engine is purring, I’m shifting, and there is no gear noise or vibration at all. It’s as if the clutch is stuck disengaged. I guess I need to check and make sure the transfer case cable is still operational and not stuck in Neutral? The vehicle is so new to me, I’m still figuring out where everything is. Plus, I let my son drive it and that is when the issue started. No telling what he did?
     
  6. HiJinks

    HiJinks Member

    Could the clutch be so burned up, that it would act this way?
     
  7. fmartin_gila

    fmartin_gila Well-Known Member

    I would check to see if any of the shifter cables has come disconnected, check at both ends. Some folks get a bit ham-fisted when going thru the gears & things happen. Think about youthful exuberance, we were all young once and you did mention it occured after your son had driven it.

    Fred
     
    Last edited: Nov 28, 2021
    Limestone likes this.
  8. HiJinks

    HiJinks Member

    I was so hoping this was the case! I did take the panel off and both cables were moving their respective levers. The transfer lever is moving as well. That is what has me puzzled. I guess the trans has to come out regardless. I hope it’s just the clutch.
     
  9. Jigs-n-fixtures

    Jigs-n-fixtures Well-Known Member

    Ani improperly adjusted clutch can go over center, and lock itself in the disengaged position. You can check to see if it has done that by checking the movement of the throw out arm there should be about a 1/4-inch of play, If you have a bunch more it may be over centered. If it is be careful, because they can decided to return to their normal position in a very rapid movement.

    Oh, and i think your clutch is cable actuated, with out a master or solve cylinder.
     
    HiJinks likes this.
  10. HiJinks

    HiJinks Member


    UPDATE:

    For future reference, your son can burn a Hijet Clutch up in two short drives. Pulled the transmission and there was a bird nest of clutch fibers on the clutch arm mechanism in the housing. Only thing left on the clutch plate were rivets. Now to put the new clutch on, try and reinstall the trans, and hope Incan get everything back where it goes and adjusted properly.
     

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