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'93 Suzuki Carry Help

Discussion in 'Suzuki Carry' started by Kyle Lamb, May 18, 2021.

  1. Kyle Lamb

    Kyle Lamb New Member

    Hello fellow Mini Truck owners,

    I’ve met a couple of you so far but this is my first official post other than my ‘Introduction’ thread.
    Thanks again for the warm welcome. And apologize in advance for the long post but I think I have to start pretty wide here:

    So I’m an owner of a ‘93 Suzuki Carry 4x4. Bought it about a half a year ago. I generally use it around my property and it’s been a great help so far.

    There’s definitely some performance issues that I’m trying to figure out. It's bogging a lot, especially going uphill and just not running as it should. Another thing to note: lots of thick black smoke coming out of exhaust and leaving black marks on the ground.

    Recently I took it in to a local mechanic (no mini truck experience) and he tuned it up and did a bunch of work on the carb (pic attached) - adjusted valve, new carb kit and replaced cap and rotor (cap was worn). When I got it back it didn't fix the bogging problem. It’s starts up better though (which was another issues I was having).

    So with some help from a member I called a fella named Big Joe at G&R Imports. He had a few tips. Suggested:

    - timing - check the weights that often get jammed
    - catalytic converter - see if it's clogged/not working properly - actually black soot does come out of my exhaust
    - fresh air cleaner - could be not functioning as well and to check the valve


    So I want to check the converter and this weekend i went to loosen it off but man would it not budge. On the one end the bolts are pretty rusted and couldn’t get them loose. Noticed a piece that might be able to slip out after taking the clamps off but no luck either (it wiggled but wouldn’t come out). Wondering if you all have any suggestions to get in here so I can take a look. Pics attached.

    THE other thing I noticed when I was looking around was a hose that was pretty much broken off. It was just hanging on and that's a pic of it completely off.

    One more thing, there’s a hose to the air filter that just taped on and really loose as well. Pic attached but it’s pretty bad (sorry).


    Anyway, I was hoping to start with these two things but any suggestions would be amazing.
    Appreciate it and looking forward to meeting more of you.


    Talk soon,
    kyle
     

    Attached Files:

  2. Jigs-n-fixtures

    Jigs-n-fixtures Well-Known Member

    The loose hose is a line to carry hot air to the filter housing until the truck warms up. The one on its left is hooked to somewhere you draw air from, on a Hijet it is the left frame rail, and then the one which is broken goes to a vacuum operated valve hooked through a thermostatic valve on the top of the head. When he engine is cold, it draws the air through the housing around the catalytic converter, and through the air filter. Once the engine warms up, it draws the air from the right frame rail without preheating it.

    Your black smoke and stumbling is screaming “too rich” to me. That or there is a huge oil leak around the valve guides and stem seals. Typically when the engine is overly rich, it rinses the oil off the cylinder walls, and pulls it into the combustion event, resulting in the black smoke form the unburned, or partially burned oil and fuel.

    My Hijet was doing the same kind of things, before I put in the electric fuel pump, and pressure regulator, to get the fuel pressure down to the 2-psi, the needle and seat on the carb can handle. And bypassed the charcoal canister to keep the pressure from building in the fuel tank.
     
    Limestone likes this.
  3. Kyle Lamb

    Kyle Lamb New Member

    Thanks Jigs,
    I forgot to mention that I'm pretty useless around motorized vehicles so I have lots to learn.

    Well it sounds like i should fix that hose, was going to do that with some aluminum tape. Would that do the trick?

    As far as the "too rich" thought. Anything I should check there?

    Lastly got any thoughts on taking a look at the CAT? wouldn't mind seeing if that's clogged just having trouble getting it loose and off.

    Thanks!

    kyle
     
  4. Jigs-n-fixtures

    Jigs-n-fixtures Well-Known Member

    Fuel pressure to the carb. It shouldn’t cost more than a few bucks to get a suitable fuel pressure/vacuum gauge. Amazon, Harbor Freight,etc. all carry them.
     
    Kyle Lamb likes this.
  5. Kyle Lamb

    Kyle Lamb New Member

    Thanks Jigs.
    I'll look into that.
    Can you direct me to the one you put on your mini?
    And if you have any resources to show me how to install that would be amazing. I just need some visuals, haha
     
  6. Kyle Lamb

    Kyle Lamb New Member

    to elaborate would you be able to let me know the best place to hook it up on the mini?

    and i'm looking at a kit like this. too overkill?
    https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0...b&pd_rd_w=tdCrY&pd_rd_wg=Dw5xS&ref_=pd_gw_unk

    thanks Jigs!
     
  7. Jigs-n-fixtures

    Jigs-n-fixtures Well-Known Member

    That tester is for fuel injection system, with way more pressure. Search for: “vacuum fuel pressure tester”. It should bring up a bunch of tester which are “dual action” gauges, and read both pressure, and vacuum with the same gauge. Pressure side goes up to 10 or 12-psi, vacuum to 20ish. You can pull of the fuel line at the carb, and see what fuel pressure is being delivered. On the mini truck it should be down around 2-psi.

    If you hook it to the intake manifold it will let you see how much vacuum you have. You can set the idle air mixture, by adjusting the mixture screw to get the highest vacuum, at idle speed (it is actually best to adjust it with the idle a couple of hundred below the 900 or so it is normally set to.).
     
  8. Kyle Lamb

    Kyle Lamb New Member

    Thanks. Sorry to get specific but would this guy work?
    https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/innova-2620-professional-vacuum-pressure-tester-0251039p.html#srp

    or this one:
    https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/equus-3640-fuel-pressure-tester-kit-0251020p.html#srp

    or this:
    https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/equus-3612-compression-tester-kit-0251016p.html
     
    Last edited: May 20, 2021
  9. Jigs-n-fixtures

    Jigs-n-fixtures Well-Known Member

    The First one will work. The other two are meant for testing fuel injection systems. they work at higher pressure ranges, and don’t have the vacuum feature.
     
  10. Kyle Lamb

    Kyle Lamb New Member

    Perfect. I'm going to pick one up and tinker this weekend. Wish me luck!
     
  11. Kyle Lamb

    Kyle Lamb New Member

    Hey Jigs & fellow mini owners,
    Hope you had a great weekend. So I wasn't able to get my vacuum pressure this weekend because COVID makes everything so difficult. But I was able to tinker and familiarize myself with my mini's inner workings a bit.

    Going to get to testing the fuel and vacuum pressure this weekend but was hoping you could let me know where to insert this gauge for the fuel and vacuum. Again I'm pretty ignorant when it comes to mechanical stuff so details will really help me.

    Fuel: I think I found the connection into the carb (see pic). Is this where I attach and what's the best way to do it?

    Vacuum: any thoughts on what hose i need to attach to to test the vacuum?


    Sidenote: I removed a spark plug to just see how it looked and here's a pic


    Thanks again for all the help!

    kyle
     

    Attached Files:

  12. Jigs-n-fixtures

    Jigs-n-fixtures Well-Known Member

    Yes, that appears to be your fuel line at the carb, and the gauge hooks in there. The plug is sooty, and that indicates a rich is true.
     
  13. Kyle Lamb

    Kyle Lamb New Member

    Thanks Jigs.
    So would I just disengage that plug and then put the male end of gauge into the hose or do I need to get a "T" adapter as I've seen.

    Also should i worry about fuel spewing out of it? lol

    appreciate the hand holding there!

    kyle
     
  14. Jigs-n-fixtures

    Jigs-n-fixtures Well-Known Member

    Disconnect the soft line from the banjo fitting and plug you test gauge into the soft line.
     
    Kyle Lamb likes this.
  15. Kyle Lamb

    Kyle Lamb New Member

    Got it.
    And from there do I fire it up? Do I need to rev it? Or am I just looking for the pressure at idol (again sorry for the dumb questions).
     
  16. Jigs-n-fixtures

    Jigs-n-fixtures Well-Known Member

    Just pressure at cranking. If you disconnect the feed to the carb, it won’t idle.

    I was taught that checking the fuel pump pressure is part of a tuneup, and you start by pulling the plugs and checking them. Then do a compression test. Then with the plugs out so the engine spins freely, check the fuel pump pressure. Then do the points and condenser, no cap and rotor, plug wires and plugs. Once you get it running set best lean idle. Then finally set the hot idle speed. On vehicles without the wax pellet choke system, you could then turn off the engine, and get the cold idle screw up on the cam, and set the high idle.
     
    Kyle Lamb and Limestone like this.
  17. Kyle Lamb

    Kyle Lamb New Member

    Hey Jigs, Happy Sunday.

    Finally got around to testing the fuel and vacuum pressure. Here’s my findings. I’ve attached some videos and pics too.

    first the fuel - I disengaged the fuel line to the carb and hooked up the gauge line. I turned it on and it shot up to 3 and held there (even after turning it off). Pic attached. I know you said it should be around two psi.

    the vacuum - here’s the tricky one. I attached it to the manifold and cranked it on and let the engine run. I connected it with a t-attachment so none of the vacuum lines were disengaged.

    right away it went bouncing around the 5 mark. Rev’d it a bit and it went up to about 15-16 then back down steady to 8. It started there for a few mins.
    https://youtube.com/shorts/ra_syvHvwGM?feature=share
    (Sorry about the bad filming and the belt noise)

    after 5 mins or so it was up to around 9.
    https://youtube.com/shorts/vBQzkg5uE4k?feature=share

    After around 10 mins the engine began to rev higher then went to 12-13 and stayed there.
    https://youtube.com/shorts/96VM3eCZRxQ?feature=share

    The rev’ing kept going up and down and I noticed some smoke coming out from behind the engine. Right of the manifold I believe. You can also here it rev back down again.
    https://youtube.com/shorts/ELkXw1dmB1w?feature=share

    that’s where I left off. I didn’t check the plugs or adjust the mixture screw (gotta figure out how to get to it) but wanted to send this your way.

    thanks for all your help!

    kyle
     

    Attached Files:

  18. Kyle Lamb

    Kyle Lamb New Member

    Just to follow up I decided to try another point into the manifold. Believe it’s something to do with the steering this time. Anyway the read was different around the 13 mark. But it was bouncing around after I rev’d.
    https://youtube.com/shorts/liPXNDkPDpw?feature=share
     
  19. Kyle Lamb

    Kyle Lamb New Member

    @Jigs-n-fixtures sorry for all the info there. got some more info to share too. checked the rest of the plugs and they were in similar shape to the other one (black, sooty). The third plug hole (far right), smelt of unburned fuel. Noticed that after i wiped around in there and it was a little wet.

    Hope the other info above helps.
    Appreciate all your advice so far.
     

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