Anyone ever have an issue with their truck not restarting easy after warm? My 89 HA1 fires up first try always cold but after a drive and a little time sitting it takes a couple tries and a little gas pedal. Thanks in advance for any ideas to improve this.
Is the engine cooler fan running or not after you switched the hot engine off? That is a problem of carburetor engines, when the engines is switch off, fuel pressure inside the engine bay goes down as the fuel pump does not run anymore, heat causes air bubbles mix with the fuel, causing vaporization of the liquid fuel. The cooling fan should avoid this. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vapor_lock I had the problem on my fuel injected old BMW that when I switched off the engine, the fuel (under 3 bar pressure when engine and fuel pump runs) let the fuel return to the tank via the fuel feed line tank to the engine. The internal check valve inside the fuel pump was broken, so that the fuel could run back into the tank till the pressure in the lines was gone. I solved it by installing a inline fuel check valve into the fuel feed line.
Hey Shogun! Thanks for the reply. I'll have to test the fan and relay. It has been cold in CT since I bought the truck so I haven't heard the fan yet.
The sensor/switch for the fan is located at the bottom of the radiator, when you see at the front of the car under the car, you will find it immy. It is bolted into the lower portion of the radiator and a black plug with wires you can see. Looks like this for the Civic, has 2 pins https://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-Radiat...re-Sensor-for-Acura-Honda-Civic-/382685100283 I never have disassembled a Acty fuel pump if it has an internal check valve to avoid back flow of the fuel to the tank, on my old BMW the intank fuel pump has an internal one way check valve like this https://ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com/symptoms-of-a-bad-fuel-pump/ There is also mentioned: engine cranks a long time before it fires up is sign of a bad check valve in the fuel pump: What we’re talking about here is an engine that must crank for 2-8 seconds before it actually fires up after sitting overnight or for several hours. You know it’s lack of fuel because the engine starts if you spray or pour fuel into the intake or your fuel pressure gauge shows too low a fuel pressure or even no fuel pressure. What the check valve does The check valve prevents fuel from draining back into the tank once you shut off the engine. It also retains most of the fuel pressure that was built up by the pump so you’ll instantly have both fuel and pressure when you try to start the engine. ---------------- But that is for a fuel injected BMW, not for a carb engine. Maybe someone with the same problem on his 1989 H1 Acty can chime in. Of course also many other things can cause this problem, air leaks in the intake system for example.
Thanks again!! I'll have to go through some of these items. Again what I'm experiencing is hard starting when the truck is warm and has sat from 15minutes to about 2hr after running. To start it I need to crank with half-pedal and let go of the key and hope it fires. It usually fires on the second try, But some days it just fires right up like cold.
You have to double check on your model year, all what I told you here refers to my 1997 Acty engine, yours might be different. Try different things when engine is hot/warm and see what improves the start. You mention "To start it I need to crank with half-pedal ", how about when you try with full throttle? Here is an interesting threads in other forum about heat soak on carbureted engines https://www.ffcars.com/threads/how-do-i-start-my-carbureted-car-when-its-hot.13506/ What are some indications of vapor lock and maybe other problems with your carburetor? https://www.hagerty.com/articles-vi...uretor-problems-and-vaporlock-blues-revisited
Resurrecting this thread because I’m experiencing the same thing with my 89. Pixel did you find the cause on your truck?
Hey there. No I haven’t come up with a fix yet. So far I did all the normal maintenance stuff. Cap, rotor, plugs, valve adjustment, timing belt, water pump, air and fuel filter. There have been a few threads since this one maybe on the FB group were a bunch of people chimed in that many round light trucks do this hard start after a 20 minute ish stop. I find that I need to put the pedal to the floor crank then let go of the key before it starts and it almost always catches and fires up. Most feel it is some kind of vapor lock or hot fuel issue. I want try running with the motor cover off to see if that helps. Also looked into a go kart inline fuel heat sink that I might try. If I find anything that helps I’ll post it.
After thinking about it more don’t the 660cc E07 trucks have some kind of sub cooling aux fan? I wonder if that helps?
Yeah maybe. The thing starts cold amazing in the deeps of the winter and runs on the highway at 105kph no problem. It is just that 20 minute restarting after running. The plugs I took out didn’t look super rich but I’ll pull them and look or maybe I can borrow a tailpipe we sensor.
But it is interesting that the 660cc motors have a sub cooling fan in the motor area that comes on and can even keep running with the truck off if it is too hot.
The Constant Velocity Carbs all have pretty much the same problem, the cylinder doesn’t start to rise until it sees vacuum, and the increased velocity over the main jet pulls more fuel through so they start rich.
The most probable cause is the carb flooding after shut off. When oyou shut down, the gas in teh fuel bowl expands, and overflows into the manifold. Second problem is the needle valve which controls flow into the fuel bowl is bad and lets the pressure in the fuel line flow past and over flow the bowl in to intake manifold. This makes it hard to restart while the engine is warm, because the fuel that went into the manifold makes it far to rich for the warm engine. The excess fuel will evaporate, after a while, which is why if you’re shut down for about twenty or thirty minutes the excess fuel evaporates, and it is easy to start again. The solenoids shouldn’t have any effect on the hard starting. The best way to solve it is to get rebuild kit and go through the carb. A new needle and seat will probably solve the problem.
This is a great description, thanks. Almost all of my carb experience is taking them apart and cleaning up after bad gas or changing jet size for performance parts. I’ll have to pull the acty carb apart and freshen it up to see it that does the trick. Thanks again.
I just pulled the air filter off and had some fuel still wet at the rubber seal at the back of the filter. Confirming I’m probably leaking some fuel. Now I need to call on some of you Acty experts. Someone has messed with the bolt that holds the air filter on my air box. They have a M5 bolt with a custom washer and another bolt holding it to the plastic of the air box. What is that bolt supposed to be?
check for the drawing with your chassis number https://honda.epc-data.com/acty_truck/ You might want to add a bit more information, on your Acty to your signature. The different built years and engine series have different capacities and requirements, and knowing which series of engine and transmission you have helps give you better responses when you ask questions. Having those details in the signature makes it for all members easier to help you.
Great point! I have a 89 HA1 with a E05a 550cc with the black plastic air box which is located above where the exhaust exits the the tail pipe. Inside the airbox there are 3 or 4 plastic struts that support a circular plastic piece with a square hole that a bolt attaches to and then a wing nut is used to hold the air filter in place. I’m looking for how the OEM bolt is attached to the air box which is not shown in the drawing. Thanks for any wisdom or photos etc.
Pixel, click on your avatar, and it opens you information page. Click on the information tab, and put the information on your truck in your signature. Look at mine and a few others as examples. There is enough information there that if I need help, folks know what my rig is, and can offer better, more informed advice.
Looking to change my radiator switch in my 95 Acty HH3 street van. Can I use a universal Honda switch or should I use one specifically for the Acty? TIA
