Looking for a little help. 1990 660. New water pump. Head done. New plugs wires. 135 compression. Spark for sure at plus’s. Timing checked many times. Broke the lines off of the carburetor so a new manual one on. Fuel pump pressure good. (Tried an electric too) I tried some starting fluid. Nothing. It will turn over and over but it will not start. Not even a cough. I am unsure where to look next. It has compression spar and fuel. It should go. I pulled the whole thing out to triple confirm timing marks. Distributor looks like it is lining up to #1. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Ignition timing. It can be one cycle out of phase and when you check it, it will look like it is right.
Should be able to just remove timing belt/chain (hopefully belt) rotate the ENGINE, not valves, 180°. That’s what it sounds like is wrong.
Actually you would need to move teh engine a full revolution. Quick check, if you have a compression checker with a flex hose, screw it into cylinder No.1 with the plugs out of the other cylinders and turn it over by hand. As you come up on top dead center of No.1 the compression tester will go up. As it starts to rise look at the engine timing mark on the fly wheel to get TDC. New head: Did you set the valve lash? Hijets are relatively easy because you do them cold.
Those are the cam alignment marks. The timing marks are on the flywheel. There is a small rubber plug in the top of the bell housing.
I just hooked up the timing light to number one cylinder and I used to paint marker on the dot but I don’t see it. Just for fun I tried it on cylinder two and three still didn’t see it. I double checked with everything at top dead centre that the rotor in the distributor cap seems to be hitting the number one lead. I tried it on the camshaft Polly and I can see the mark flashing on the Cam Lilly next to the TDC mark with the timing light. Looks good. Yet I can’t see the timing mark on the fly wheel. When I match the flywheel mark on Tex the cam gear is on the same mark. I checked the distributor and it looks like the rotor is on cylinder 1 too. I am completely Buffalo.
As Jigs says, it sounds like you are one revolution out. Pull the valve cover and check the valves on #1 ( front ) cylinder to confirm that they both have clearance - indicating compression stroke. If not, which cylinder does ?
So tell us what happened. Don't be embarrassed if it was something you caused. We are only interested in order to learn something. One of my mentors some sixty plus years ago once told me "boy, if you never make a mistake, you ain't never done anything" and it is something I have never forgotten. In fact, my first lesson in 'the school of hard knocks' was the 180 out distributor on a 1937 chevy which my buddy & I (both 15 years old so about 1954/1955) fought for almost 3 days and then towed about 20 miles to an older guy who had it running in about 10 minutes. These are the type things you will never forget. It is also very helpful if one will accept knowledge learned from others mistakes. Fred
Well it was not a timing issue. Bad spark plugs. I can’t even believe it. They were new but they were not firing. So silly. 3 more new plugs (NGK) and it fired on the first try.
Rick, Fred is absolutely correct! If you've been around long enough, you see and hear a lot. Many of us have heard of bad, NEW, plugs. That's the reason that you not only check the gap on the plugs out of the box, but inspect them, in case they were dropped, and also check them for spark! I'm assuming that in your first post, you said, "Spark for sure at Plug's', you either assumed the new plugs had spark, or you checked them for spark! Could be a great lesson learned hear for many, like Fred said. Glad you got it going! Good Luck! Limestone
Rick, please mark your thread as solved. It is a big help to folks who are searching for the solution to their problems.
Not sure where it is either but you should be able to edit the title, and just put SOLVED AS the first word.
