Hijet Wont Start, what to check next?

Brandon, the fact that you have fuel coming out of the vent on the fuel bowl if you leave the electric fuel pump on, means that the needle and seat are bad, or the float setting is way off.

 

So, after reading through some suzuki threads, Ive got a complete setup on my Hijet now with a rhino 660 carb. It seems like this is going to be a winner. Can someone help me think through what vaccum lines are now essential? Ive been able to elminate most of them which in my opinion is awesome!

I can grab pictures, but basically I have the 4 lines coming off of the stem, a few connections to the intake manifold, the advance by the distributor and all of the ac vaccum lines

 

I think you are on the right track. I have looked at similar carbs and feel that they are what we need. However, I am not sure how to hook up the throttle cable and both of the advance/retard vacuum lines. Please let me know how you get on with it. You can also get an electric enrichment valve ( choke ) which makes it easy to operate.

 

That's good to know about the electric version of the enrichment, might be an upgrade ill do down the road. As you can see by the month lull on this thread it took me a little to get everything together since there were a couple differences between what those guys were using with their Carry's and what was needed to hook the carb up to the Hijet, ill make sure to update when I get everything sorted!

 

Solved!!!!!!!!!!!!! Got truck running this morning with one of my stock carbs!!!!! so many headaches but bouncing ideas off of you guys was the key, appreciate all of the help

Did notice my radiator fan is not kicking on, cant remember if it did before or not. I amm in the tropics so its a must.
Where is the relay? Big square relay in the top right of the fuse box?

 

Big square relay on teh fuse panel is the flasher.

 

All problems solved, this Hijet is back to 100% thanks to all of you guys that chimed in.

Cheer!!!

 

NOOOOOOOOO!!!!

Well that was short lived, somehow I am back to having a truck that wont start.

So after it was "fixed" a few days ago I probably started it 20 times, and it fired up first try everytime. Even the choke was reacting to engine heat. I noticed that the choke wasnt completely closing so I took the arm off and adjusted the placement so that there was room for the white gear and small spring to allow the choke to completely close. Since then it will not start again.

I tried putting it back where it was, nothing. So here we go again.

Checked fuel, compression, spark, took carb off again and checked float bowl level and that nothing was clogged up. Changed fuel filter again and adjusted the gap twice on valves to spec. Took the bed off and checked the inside of the fuel tank, beautifully clean, blew out all guel lines again.No Joy on ANYTHING.

The only thing I noticed is that the sparks on the plugs were orange not blue/white.

Going to throw a new battery on in the morning, but I dont get it.

What in the hell is going on with this thing?!?! Any ideas?

 

Have you tested teh coil? They can sometimes have intermittent internal shorts.

 

First coil I had was shot, the one im using now is used from Japan. What am I looking for resistence? Cause I have 12 volts coming out of the plug that goes to the coil.

 

Well Ive narrowed it down to the spark plugs fouling with gas if it doesn't start right away. I can take then out dry then up put them right back in and the truck will fire up 9/10 times. Im still waiting on the new coil to see if the intermittent coil issue is essentially causing the flooding from cranking, getting close my friends!

I wanted to add that yesterday the truck fired up first try, so I drove it around town for 45 minutes since it has been sitting for months now. It ran like an absolute champ. Got home turned off and on a few times no issues. Seems like after the motor cools back down its a 50/50 if it is going to start or flood out.

Some pictures below; My two rides, Truck with bed off, which is def worth taking the 10 minutes to take the bed off, so much easier to work on. Vacuum line setup, these are setup per the EF-NS diagram in my manual. Which is definitely different then how it was setup when I got it from the importer in Miami.

Ps. If anyone is looking for diagrams or information from the manuals feel free to ask and ill get it to you.

Capture5 by Brandon Phillips posted Mar 10, 2021 at 12:23 PM

Capture by Brandon Phillips posted Mar 10, 2021 at 12:23 PM

Capture2 by Brandon Phillips posted Mar 10, 2021 at 12:23 PM

Capture3 by Brandon Phillips posted Mar 10, 2021 at 12:23 PM

Capture4 by Brandon Phillips posted Mar 10, 2021 at 12:23 PM

 

So did you figure it out? Im having the same problem, my plugs are getting to wet and won’t start. Once I dry them it will run fine for a week and then I can’t get it to start until I dry them out again.

 

Also, can you send me the vacuum diagrams?

 

Check and see if you charcoal canister is clogged. it is a fairly common problem, and keeps the fuel regulation on the stock fuel pump to fail to keep the fuel pressure at the carb below the 2.5-psi, which the float and needle in the carb can handle.

This causes the fuel bowl to overflow into the throat of the carb, and it floods the engine.

My guess is your suffering from the clogged charcoal cannister, and why you are having flooding issues.

I ended up bypassing the stock pump, and installing an electric fuel pump back by the fuel tank, and a regulator just before the carb. Solved the issue for me.

 

thanks Jigs! I removed the canister and was able to move air though it. Not sure that means it’s working properly but it’s a start. Anything else you suggest I look at?

 

Make sure the vent line port on canister which hooks to the fuel tank vent is clear and moves air easily. There should be hardly any resistance on any of the ports.

Install a secondary fuel regulator at the carb inlet, to make sure the fuel pressure the carb sees is down around 2 to 2.5-psi.

I installed an electric pump in the fuel line, and completely bypassed the stock fuel pump. My thought was that with the electric pump it didn’t need to be in the line. And with it still full of fuel it couldn’t get rid of, it might rupture back into the oil pan, and toast the engine.

The other advantage of the electric pump, is that when the fuel bowl is full, and it’s internal bypass opens up, the tone of the vibration changes, and you know the fuel bowl is full. At which time I pump the gas three times, and hit the starter. Unless it is really cold out (below 0F), the engine catches and runs on the first try.

 

Thanks Jigs, I'll have to give this a try. What fuel pump did you use? I've never done anything like this so if you have a few minutes to send pictures of your setup it would be great.

 

Fuel pump is pretty similar to this. They had it at the local CarQuest. https://www.amazon.com/E8012S-Unive...57257751&sprefix=Electric+fuel,aps,206&sr=8-4

Regulator is one of these, it is what they had in stock at the CarQuest, but there other brandings of the same unit for $10 less: https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Gasket-97...prefix=fuel+pressure+regulator,aps,165&sr=8-4

Because my truck has a dump bed which allows really easy access to the top of the fuel tank, I mounted it right by the tank. I have it wired through a relay, with the control voltage going though a rocker switch, from the accessory terminal on the ignition switch. That lets me manually control whether the pump is running.

The regulator is up by the carb, and set to 2-psi.