1991 Suzuki 51T serial #. The heater and floor/vent/defroster control don't seam to work. The temp guage was up last night when I tried the heater, but there was no heat. There is resistance on the controls, but they make no difference when moved. Just wondering if anyone knew if they were vacume operated or otherwise. I've not yet had a chance to look about them, but will try to post back when I find the problem.
Cable operated. A few have kinked cables, thus giving the feel of resistance, but not actually doing anything. Remove the dash. (Easy quick job) and check the cables. Try moving the actual heater flaps by hand and see if it makes a difference. You can repair the cables by just getting very thin rod (Got ours from the hobby store, similar to what they use for controls on a radio controlled airplane. ) and making a loop on one end and a z-bend on the other. Cost only a few cents in parts if thats the problem. Although it could be a heater-core problem or otherwise, the above is what we have ran into every time we have had a heater issue. Jeremy
Yup. Thats the way they are. Lots of Asian and Euro cars are thet way. The 1st benz we imported I ripped it all apart trying to figure out wtf was going on. Then I found out that's the way they are. All the minitrucks we have imported work this way. Fresh air from the dash, heat up and down only. Probably wouldnt be too difficult to modify a duct if thats what you want though. Jeremy
The cable that controls the heater is working properly, but the control to direct the air isn't. I can manually move the mechanism by hand down on the heater panel(beside my left foot), but it still feels restricted,the mechanism not the cable. How big a deal is it to remove the dash? I see the three bolts at the top and two under the stering wheel plus the two in each side at the bottom. Can it be that simple? Will it come right out? Of course I realize that nothing comes "right out" without persuasion. I believe if I could get the dash out so I could look at the controls, I could free it up no problem. Thanks for any help.
Yes. Its very simple actually. I had the dash out in about 15 mins with never doing one before. Putting it back in was only marginally more difficult. The biggest issue I have is getting the speedo cable disconnected/reconnected and its really not that bad. Yank the dash. You may find some goodies that got lodged in there from years gone by, or, large insects and arachnids like others have found. Last dash I took out I found a nice hand towel with some Japanese writing on it. Looked like it was pilfered from a hotel or otherwise. But it sounds exactly like the last one we had. Still turned out to be the cable. It was kinked near the heater box. It moved smooth with the lever but didnt have enough strength to push the flap. (It would pull it, but you couldnt move it back) Jeremy
Cable problem Thanks to minibrutes for pointing me in the right direction. The cable was indeed broken. I'll be looking for a new piece of inner rod(cable) today. The dash was a little bit of a job to get out, but like anything, the first time is the hardest. Now I know what to do.Thanks
Hey No problems. Glad it is a minor issue, all things considered. After searching hardware type stores for a suitable rod, we finally found something at the local hobby store for less than a buck.
Heater Cable Hi Guys. Been meaning to post this for a while as I had a kinked and then broken heater cable on my Carry as well. I went to my local welding shop and got a TIG rod. It is a bit heavier guage but it bends well and is easy to shape. Applied some white grease to lubricate the sleeve and it has been working fine since last summer. Just in case you are like me and you don't have a hobby shop nearby. Also another hint; dropping the steering column makes the dash removal much easier. Jim
Mine was also kinked, I just straithened it out with pliers. It works fine now, but I probably treat it better than previous owner.
