So, long story short: The Japanese Bridgestone 145/R12LT tires that my truck came with only worked for about 500kms before the right front one busted a chord and bulged out of one side. I found a set of moderately priced 14x6 Konig Lightning wheels on eBay and ordered some 145/65R14 Vredestein Quatrac tires from Tire Rack. All in, the setup cost me about $680 and my truck drives and looks so much better. What do ya'll think?
Now you've gone and done it!!! Just when I thought I was happy with my "stock" rims, you go and post these pics! Now I've got to spend money on new rims! I'll tell my wife it's all your fault.
I suppose I can take the blame for that. This truck is my commuter and I'm really enjoying how much nicer it drives overall after making the swap.
I finally did a similar thing for my 1992 MiniCab. I sourced a set of American Racing wheels for my rig. The rims are 14 by 7 inches, 4 lug with 4 by 4.5 inch lug spacing, with zero offset, and 4 inches back-space. Also, I chose the rims because they are approx. 5 lbs. lighter than comparably sized steel rims, - so less unsprung weight. The wheels fit, therefore with no adapters required. I also bought a set of 175/65R14 Mud and Snow tires. Using my manual tire changer, mounting the tires to the rims with no damage was easy, but getting the beads to seat took a bit of doing. - I tried the old starting fluid explosion trick with little luck, but I found working with the wheel mounted upside down on the tire changer, and muscling the treads about worked best, as opposed to trying to do it with the wheel face side up, like most people do. - - Also, a foot controlled air valve helps, leaving both hands to manipulte the tire on the rim helps, with the air supply locked onto the valve stem. This set-up allowed me to mount the tire/wheel combo right to the truck without a lift kit, or wheel adapters/spacers, which is what I wanted. - - I will admit though, I had to do a little "flareing" on the bottom of the door frames, and had to use a bit of a "heavy hammer" to flatten the bottom couple of inches of the extroverted body seams on the inside front-bottom of the inner wheel well- really quite minor. I have to say, that although I don't have a lot of miles on it yet, so far I'm really impressed with the improvement. - - Pretty much everything I was hoping to accomplish. - Better ride and handling, a bit of a wider track, so it fits a bit better into the ruts on snowbound winter roads, a bit more ride height, less un-sprung weight and bigger tires so it doesn't crash so hard into potholes etc., lower effective final drive ratio because of the larger diameter tires, so engine rpm cruising at 50 to 60 kph, where I do all of my driving is reduced. - - - Who knows - I might even get bettert gas mileage! Anyway - attached are a couple of pictures.
Arty, I really like em! Hey the flaring on the bottom of the door jam's is pretty normal. There's not much room for any improvements, so it can't be avoided! Limestone
Arty, Cool setup. It does make quite a difference in the drivability. After looking at your photos, I’d like to know more about your bumper. Did you make it? How is it mounted? Photos please
Thanks Matt. - I'm pretty jealous of your set-up too! The dark colour on yours really looks good.-- The 14 inch wheels really do seem to wake these little things up, .. - - Hell - it even corrected my speedometer! Regarding the bumper, just do a search on this forum for "Hitch receiver bumper"and make sure you scrole down through the post. - - But don't tell Limestone you like it!!
Thanks Limestone. - I really hated having to bend and pry on my little truck to make the set-up work, but after driving it it was well worth it. The only problem now, is that it shoots road grime/slush eic. all over the bodywork because of the wider tire/wheel combo. - - I may consider trying some fender flares. - - Any suggestions?
I’m planning on putting “Flexy Flares” form Pacer Performance on teh front of mine. Got the stuff bought just ran out of time before winter. https://pacerperformance.com/products-footer/flexy-flares/universal/no-lip-side-mount/52-168-detail I’ve used them before, been around for years.
I also hate the excessive Road grime, and like Jigs have used the product that he is recommending, and would be my first choice! Limestone
Are those "Flexy Flares" bolt on, or adhesive mount? - I really hate having to drill into my bodywork if not absolutely necessary.
I just saw this in one of my design engineering magazines : TrimLok peel and stick rubber flares from TrimLok.com.
Arty, I understand what you mean, but I always used stainless steel screws and drilled and screwed! I undercoat to slow down the rust, if I can! Limestone
When I mount mine, I plan to do teh quick mount to determine where the holes in the door go, and then pull teh screws, and dismount the flares, and then drill out the screw holes and install stainless rivet-nuts, and stainless bolts for the final mounting.