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[SOLVED] '94 Hijet S110P Won't Start

Discussion in 'Daihatsu Hi jet' started by tdrich7, Jan 11, 2021.

  1. tdrich7

    tdrich7 Member

    Hey all, hoping someone can give me an idea what to try here. I'm not the most mechanically inclined and having some real issues with our Hijet we just got this year.

    The current problem is that it won't start. This has been an ongoing issue ever since it started getting colder, and now that we're in the middle of winter it won't start at all. Current daytime temps are in the 20s F. To compound this problem it is a dump truck and has a second access plate under the bed, meaning I can't access the engine from the bed at all since the truck needs to be running to lift the bed. Is there any way to lift this manually or otherwise?

    To give a bit of history - we started having some idle issues after our mechanic adjusted the idle back down as he said it was set too high. After he turned it down it started stalling while idling. Sometimes the truck would start and then stall right away. I turned the idle back up and a lot of these issues went away, but it still had a hard time starting.

    So - any ideas of where to start here, but first how can I get the bed up so I can attempt to fix anything?

    Thanks in advance.
     
  2. Limestone

    Limestone Well-Known Member

    td,
    Well, Since You didn't fill out your Signature, in your Profile, like the Forum, suggests in the blue field at the top of the page, Like many of us have! I'm not sure exactly what you have, so I'll just wing it. So, on mine, I lifted the seat on the right side of the vehicle, exposing the Centrifugal clutch, on the face of the Hydraulic pump. With one of my cordless drill motors, and a socket, I was able to turn the pump motor, with the drill motor, and it raised the dump bed! Then I used the BRACE, and made sure that I supported the bed, so it wouldn't come down on me accidentally, while I was working underneath it! This trick works great on my Hydraulic pump for the bed of my mini truck! If your pump is Electric, you just turn the key on and work the switches. I would hook up a battery charger, just to be on the safe side. I'm guessing you have the Hyd. pump.
    Limestone
     
  3. tdrich7

    tdrich7 Member

    Awesome! Thanks for the tip Limestone, going to give that a shot. And just updated my signature, that's new since the last time I was really on here!
     
  4. Jigs-n-fixtures

    Jigs-n-fixtures Well-Known Member

    Fully charged the battery can run the bed up on mine about four or five times before it goes flat.

    Stock idle is 950 rpm. There is no spec for the high idle so I set mine at 1250, just because my 77 Toyota Hilux manual, and most other carbureted engine I have worked on were about 300-rpm higher than the warm idle speed.

    The drive on your pump may depend on whether you have a/c. Limestone’s truck doesn’t and his motor driven pump is located where the A/C compressor is located on my truck.

    I’m thinking of adding a tee with a quick connect coupling into the line from my hydraulic pump the the lift cylinder. Just in case something goes wrong with the pump.
     
    Last edited: Jan 12, 2021
  5. tdrich7

    tdrich7 Member

    Thanks for the response Jigs. Mine does have AC so it seems I could be out of luck there. I'm hoping I will have some time during daylight today to take a look at it. Based on what you are saying it sounds like this could be a battery issue? However my AC and electronics still work and the truck has been sitting for a while, so battery is at least in decent shape still. I also don't recall the bed ever working with the truck off. Being in VT it could make sense to do a battery upgrade anyways, just didn't want to go spending that money if it was something else entirely. Worth noting I have also tried to jump the truck before when it was having trouble starting but it still seemed to just need some time to warm up.
     
  6. Jigs-n-fixtures

    Jigs-n-fixtures Well-Known Member

    Sounds like you have the same rig as mine. If so the the pump and reservoir will be on the left hand side just in front of the battery. You have to put the key in the on position in order for the lift to operate.

    The drive motor is essentially a starter motor. There should be a 6ga wire from it to the battery positive, and two smaller wires (18 or 20ga) to the control solenoid.

    One of the small wires engages teh solenoid, and starts the motor, which pumps hydraulic fluid through a one way valve to the cylinder, and lifts the bed. The other should open the release valve, which lets the the hydraulic fluid bypass the one way valve to return to the reservoir, and lowers the bed.

    On mine the large wire to the pump was run direct to the positive post of the battery. The two small wires had a disconnect, and went to the switch in the cab. I replaced the disconnect on mine because it had seen too much sun and rotted. The Delphi weather-tight, that GM uses was an easy replacement. You should be able to bypass the dash switch, if you need to, by applying voltage from the battery to one of the small wires to the pump assembly with a jumper wire from the battery.

    Good luck, and if you have a different setup, please post some pictures.
     
  7. tdrich7

    tdrich7 Member

    So the good news is I got the truck to start just enough this morning to lift the bed. I didn't look into anything else with the lift just yet since I'm trying to figure out the starting issue, but I did see the only hose running from the lift mechanism goes under the driver's seat so my setup may be more similar to Limestone's.


    Now I need to figure out how to get this thing to start reliably in the cold. Today was a bit warmer which makes sense for why I almost got it to start. Pressing the gas helps a little bit but also seems to flood the engine fairly easily and then there's nothing I can do for a while.

    I took off the rubber section between the air filter and the carb to check the position of the choke and it was fully closed. I messed around with the mechanism a bit and could only get the choke to move from all the way closed to slightly open - not sure how normal this is in when the truck is off. Either way the choke is closed and that doesn't appear to be the main issue right now.

    Anything else I should be trying to troubleshoot this?

    Thanks again for all the help.
     
  8. tdrich7

    tdrich7 Member

    Here's some pictures of what I'm looking at:
     

    Attached Files:

  9. Jigs-n-fixtures

    Jigs-n-fixtures Well-Known Member

    Run it until it warms up and see if the choke has opened.

    Then set the best lean idle. There are two methods. you set the idle down to about 700-rpm, to make sure the throttle blade isn’t engaging the transfer slots in the Venturi.

    One involves the use of a vacuum gauge, and adjust the idle mixture screw to get the highest vacuum.

    The second one is more fiddley. You use a tuneup tachometer, to give an accurate indication of the engine rpm, and adjust the idle screw in a little bit, and then see if the rpm goes up or down. If it goes up, you are going the right way. Reset the idle speed, and keep turning the idle mixture screw until the rpm drops off. If when you turned it in the rpm drops, your engine was running lean, and you need to riches it up a bit.
     
  10. tdrich7

    tdrich7 Member

    Right now I'm just trying to get it to start period. I bought a can of seafoam and am going to try some starting fluid and see how that works. Are these things always this hard to start in cold weather or is there something I need to fix?
     
  11. tdrich7

    tdrich7 Member

    Added Seafoam and tried some starting fluid yesterday, and still no luck. The engine turns and then progressively dies down until it won't turn anymore. Usually when I let it sit for a while/overnight it will attempt to start much better, but for whatever reason this morning it didn't seem close to starting and the engine stopped turning pretty quick. For comparison yesterday morning I was able to start it enough where with keeping my foot on the gas I was able to raise the bed, although it still wasn't enough to stay running.
     
  12. Jigs-n-fixtures

    Jigs-n-fixtures Well-Known Member

    Sounds like it is flooding as the fuel pump runs.

    Possible causes: Bad needle and seat in the carb;

    Bad fuel pump;

    clogged evaporative canister, causing the tank to pressurize, and preventing the fuel from the fuel pump return line getting back to the carb.

    Mine was doing something similar, and I bypassed the stock fuel pump, and installed an electric pump back at the fuel tank, with a see through filter just in front of it, and a regular set to 2.5-psi right after it, and retained the stock filter at the corner of the cab. And, I blocked off the return line from the stock pump at the tank.

    I used what I could get at the local parts house:
    Regulator Mr. Gasket 9110,
    Fuel Pump, generic electric, 3 to 5-psi output.
    Filter Mr. Gasket 9706 kit.
     
  13. Roadster

    Roadster Active Member

    Jigs, in his picture of the choke butterfly, it shows as being totally closed. Is it supposed to be that way, or should there be a slight gap when cold? Perhaps this would cause too much fuel in the mix for starting... Also, on his, the pin that runs on the eccentric is close to the line on the eccentric below the throttle attachment (assuming this is the "cold" position). Mine at about 28*F is further down the eccentric and works its way up until reaching the very top when the engine is warm... could his be starting off too "high"? I suspect the screw on the throttle mechanism inboard might be the adjustment for the pin location on the eccentric when cold...? Perhaps the line on the eccentric is for a certain ambient temperature (eg 70*F)? or?

    Roadster
     
  14. Jigs-n-fixtures

    Jigs-n-fixtures Well-Known Member

    Looking closer at his photos, I’d say that he should probably try turning the choke screw in a turn. So far as I know the alignment mark should be lined up at room temperature. So, as it gets colder, it should move downward. Which engages the choke more. If the mechanic turned the wrong screw, and adjusted the choke instead of the idle screw, it would make it really hard to start.

    I’d turn it in a turn or so, and see what happens, on the guess that when the mechanic adjusted it, they turned it out.

    and if turning it in a couple turns, I’d try going back and turning it out.
     
    Last edited: Jan 14, 2021
  15. Limestone

    Limestone Well-Known Member

    I agree!
     
  16. tdrich7

    tdrich7 Member

    This is what I was wondering as well. It seemed odd to me that I had to manually move the mechanism a fair amount before the choke would even start to open, and that when I could no longer move the mechanism the choke was only slightly open.

    As always thanks for the suggestions guys - I am off tomorrow and will be giving them a shot.
     
  17. Jigs-n-fixtures

    Jigs-n-fixtures Well-Known Member

    The choke is driven by a wax motor, as opposed to a bimetallic spring found in carbs for larger cars. So, unlike the spring driven ones, it is solid, and if the engine isn’t warm, you can only move the choke plate so far.
     
  18. tdrich7

    tdrich7 Member

    I tried turning the choke screw both in and out, and neither really made much of a difference. I'm really at a dead end here of what this could be or what to try. Do you think if I got some type of heating pad I could at least get the thing to start? For now I would love to just relocate it out of the winter conditions.
     
  19. Roadster

    Roadster Active Member

    I wonder if a heat gun on "low" and focused on the choke "wax motor" tower would move it?
     
  20. Jigs-n-fixtures

    Jigs-n-fixtures Well-Known Member

    I have teh glue on pads on the engine oil pan, and the bottom of the transmission. Sure helps it turn over in the mornings.
     
  21. tdrich7

    tdrich7 Member

    So it's now 60 degrees outside and I still can't this thing to start. I'm worried that in messing with the screws/choke on the carb trying to get it to start in the cold I have now made it so it won't start period. Any advice on resetting these back to where they should be? Only other thing that has changed is that I added seafoam to both the gas and oil that has sat in there because I haven't been able to start it.
     
  22. Roadster

    Roadster Active Member

    How old is the gas?
     
  23. Jigs-n-fixtures

    Jigs-n-fixtures Well-Known Member

    Did you get your bed raised so you can get to the engine easier?
     
  24. tdrich7

    tdrich7 Member

    Yes I was able to lift the bed by turning the key and trying to start it

    The gas has been sitting in there since November. I did add some ethanol free in January when trying to troubleshoot.
     
  25. Jigs-n-fixtures

    Jigs-n-fixtures Well-Known Member

    One the carb: Set the idle mixture screw by turning it all the way in, and then back out 1.5 turns; set the choke to the index marks.

    Then when you get it running, and timed etc, adjust both of them with a tach. Curb idle is 950-rpm, I run at 1000. Set the idle mixture for best lean idle. I did a complete thread on that. And, the choke so teh idle speed is around 1400.

    I did a post on the carbs: https://minitrucktalk.com/threads/some-thoughts-on-carburetors.20150/
     
  26. tdrich7

    tdrich7 Member

    Sorry if this is a dumb question but I can't seem to find anything that would be the choke index...what am I looking for?

    Also I did disconnect a couple vacuum hoses when I removed the air filter connector to get a look at the choke. I am 95% sure everything is back right but I suppose that could be an issue too. I've compared to the diagram you posted and as far as I can tell everything is right but it is not an exact match.

    I've posted a picture of the hoses if anyone has an exact match they can compare to and also a picture of the choke adjustment.
    Resized_20210323_094610.jpeg Resized_20210323_095401.jpeg
     
  27. Jigs-n-fixtures

    Jigs-n-fixtures Well-Known Member

    The adjustment screw is under the white and orange, vacuum delay on the left upper of your first photo. There is a throttle cam which is part of the choke system. The screw adjusts a plate with a roller which follows the cam. The cam has in index mark on it. Line up the roller with the index on the cam. On my carb there is a depressed area of the cam, adjacent to the mark, where the follower vibrated agains it. So, I set mine just a little below the worn part.
     
  28. tdrich7

    tdrich7 Member

    Really appreciate the help, and I swear I'm trying lol, but still confused.

    Hoping some more pictures can help me understand. I am adjusting the screw circled in white, not the one circled in blue, right? Also I tried to point out everything I see as different adjustment indicators. Any chance you can tell me what is what in your description above based on the colored arrows?

    chokeadjust.png chokeadjust2.png chokeadjust3.png
     
  29. Jigs-n-fixtures

    Jigs-n-fixtures Well-Known Member

    The one in blue is the first one to adjust it controls the choke, and the throttle plate. Should line up at room temperature.

    Then you adjust the one in white. Normally, there is a spec in the manual for the gap the choke blade is supposed to have between it and the venturii. My old Toyota was a 5/16th drill bit. I set the one on the Hijet for a 1/4, (just proportioned from the throttle blade sizes), and it seems to have worked.

    Looking at the photos the one in white is most probably your problem. If I remember correctly screwing it in, increase the pressure on the choke blade. Sop with it screwed all the way in you will have lots of choke, even when you don’t need it.
     
  30. tdrich7

    tdrich7 Member

    I am still not sure what to line up. The blue screw I have turned until the round piece (to the left of the blue arrow) meets the plate with the marked line, and then I turned it about a turn and a half further. The white screw (which moves things pointed out by the green, yellow, and pink arrows) I have turned until there is a small gap between the metal tooth and the metal plate (yellow arrow - not a great picture of it) because this was my best guess as to what you were referring to.

    As for the other 3 screws, I am not sure where they are currently set to or where they should be set to.

    At this point the battery is pretty much dead, but even when hooking the truck up to a car to try and jump it it won't start, and I'm beginning to think it's not just the choke or idle screws anymore.

    My next steps are:
    -Buy a new battery (this one is from Japan and who knows how old)
    -Drain the oil and gas and replace
    -Try and clean the carb somehow? I already tried adding seafoam to no avail. Should this be done again? Where/how?


    I am also really starting to worry about the vacuum hoses. For whatever reason several hoses are connected in a manner not consistent with the diagram. I have gone through 40 pages of threads looking for pictures to compare to, and I can't find anything close to how mine is hooked up. I am very tempted to unhook everything and reattach as close to what looks right from everything I have found. But I also know that the truck was starting just fine for most of summer/fall with this configuration. My mechanic did mention he replaced some vacuum lines and spark plugs (and it was only shortly after this things started going wrong), but none of these lines in question look replaced and I can't imagine he would have messed with the configuration. I really taken a picture when I got the truck.

    My final step would be to have it towed to a local mechanic, but my fear with that is I will spend a boatload of money for someone who either can't fix the problem or screws things up even more...
     

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