camber settings

does anybody know the factory settings and the best settings for a two and a half to three inch lift with 23 atv tires? thanks inadvance

 

chamber

Thinking about it, I thought you could measure center to center on rear tires and take that, apply it to center to center front tires. I went and measured one of my trucks (suz) and the front drive is longer(1/2") than rear. What I do when I add 2"/2 1/2" lifts and 23/24" tires I adjust chamber on both sides equal till they come true. Eyeball them, drive the truck around and check it again. So far I have not had any complaints.

 

Wilderman,

Are you looking for camber settings or toe-in settings? I suppose that the camber must be set by the design of the truck, because there is no camber adjustment on the factory struts. But, I have seen many trucks in need of a camber adjustment after a lift kit has been added!

 

Camber Adjustment

Wilderman,
When I purchased my Suzuki it had a 3" lift and looked bowlegged and pigeon-toed due to camber and toe being out of alignment. I purchased a 2 1/4" lift with camber adjustment and solved the bowlegged problem. Adjustment of the tie rods corrected the toe. Looks and drives much better. My adjustments were very scientific...by eye ball. I plan on watching the tire wear and adjust accordingly.

 

camber

thanks so much everybody for the info. camber must be set before you set the toe in. i use a camber/caster gauge that i used when i raced UMP open wheel modifeds. it has a magnet end on it and justs sticks to the out side of the hub. your struts on the bottom have adjustment. but sometimes it is not enough. general rule of thumb on street vehecles camber is 3/4 to 1 degree. and toe is 1/8 inch in. does anybody have trouble with the atv tires out of round. had tires balanced and they showed me on the machine how much they where out. the balanced tires did not help much. thanks again leon

 

Wilderman,

That is good info. I did not realize that camber adjustments could be made on these trucks. The holes on the bottom of my struts seem very tight, with very little movement. But I guess it does not take much to get a degree or so of movement at the wheel hub. I have a camber gauge (it's called a carpenters square most of the time! ) and have built a lift with adjustment at the mounting point under the seat.

I knew the toe-in is typically about 1/8 inch in. But I set-up a Daihatsu lke that with Mud-Lite tires and you could not hear yourself think on hard surfaced roads! I went to zero toe-in to reduce the noise and it helped...a little.

 

thanks james for the info. and it does not take much movement on the strut being it is so close to the hub asm.

 

maybe you guys can help me. I built my own lift kit the camber is off by about 2 -3 degrees but I am out of adjustment. But it is the same on both sides the caster is 0 on both sides. I set the toe in to 1/8 inch. I also but a little larger tires on it of a honda civic. It drives great you can take your hand off the steering wheel and it will go straight as an arrow.
Problem is when I get to about 40-50 mph it falls apart and shakes uncontrollably.
I have tried several differant adjustment to fix the problem but haven't been able to fix it.
Any Ideas what would cause this is it because the camber is out because the caster is 0 or a combination.
Thanks

 

I think I would check the tire balance, then worn parts in the stearing. In high school my 47 dodge would do that shimmy dance at about 50mph. It was worn tie rods. I couldn't afford new ones (or even used ones) so I kept it under 50. The car did just fine until I threw a rod. Guess I should have kept it under 35. I was at a crossroads - I could get another job and repair the car or scrap the car and join the Marines. I joined the Marines.

 

rofl
your post cracked me up
I think I'm to old to join the marines so maybe I better keep it under 20.

It drove fine before I put the lift in it so Im thinking I changed something that is causing the problem. Thanks for the advice and the good laugh though.