pimpin out a U14T mity mitz hightop.

yes this is the rants and fleeting thoughts in my brain. today #2 cheep ass chinese fuel pump. installed. tried them lighter solder shrink tube connectors for the wires.... they are pretty kewl... test drove it about a mile.... probably rich on the idle.... bit lean on the main. thinking i will get a low pressure fuel regulator and stop feeding extra fuel back to the tank. brakes are working probably need to bleed the lines.... again and get the front rotors cleaned up a bit. best part... didn't have to do the walk of shame from the street to the house!!!!!!

 

Your making great progress. I'm enjoying this!

 

today is compare the 25mph speedo cluster to the 140kph cushman cluster..... i'm gunna guess the elec connection of the speedo on both is a feed to the speed limiter ckt. so i'm gunna guess that it is not important..... now how to creatively cut the face of the cushman speedo to fit into the U14T so the speedo will read up to 140.... instead of 25..... and not look like a 3 year old did the modification.....i wish me luck.....

 

well there were a couple glitches but i think it turned out kinda ok the speedo face plate sticks out a 1/4 inch or so....but it looks fair.... will try to install tomorrow pics might show up. the issue was the cushman speedo drive is thicker than the olderU14T unit so since i couldn't make room in the back of the cluster it had to push out a lil in the front... but the cover did go back on.... so kinda good.....

 

Sorry for the delay. Packed up everything and moved house over the past week, been quite crazy!

Glad you got the shifters figured out, here's the speedo pics

 

installed a set of NGK plugs.... the old champions..... 1.3.4. white.... 2 black..... since it's now running time to finish the tune-up stuff.... delay.... what like 13 hrs.... i appreciate it. hope all is well....

 

I didn't even remember how long I'd let it sit

Will take a long time to fully settle in but it's SO worth it. Big lot in the country with a huge shop ❤️️

 

you SUCK..... loan me the shop..... put it in my front yard

 

I did my time working in the dirt, and then 11 years in (and in front of) a 300sqft garage...

 

Seems like we all have to earn our stripes! Other wise we just wouldn't appreciate it as much!!!
Limestone

 

yup but i was hoping for more rank.... not all them hashmarks on my forearm.....
small shop in sight..... bigger shop is there if he will consider selling it as is...so far... not a NO... a maybe.... maybe

 

got a 205 main from the H-D shop..... biggest they had... he still thinks i'm nutz even showing up..... but he's helpful and the jets are cheep $2.00 probably used and still don't care. time to stand in a puddle and change the main jet.

 

hahaha good luck with it! if it's still running lean with that much main, double check for other vacuum leaks?

 

the H-D jet was different thread.... drilled the original to 5/32. running better. lost the gas cap.... oops... that was a pain in the butt to try to match.....safety wired it to truck.... not a perfect fit. the shift bracket i made is being a PITA.... got 5th but not rev.... gunna beg a used one.....

 

i think i pulled my head out of my ass and went new old skool.... 4-7 psi fuel pump is too much for a motorcycle carb... normally gravity feed. friend reminded me of the kawasaki ZX11 used a elec FP on a set of carbs.... and it on/offs as the float valve opens. sooooo i knew i built a 95 ZX7 23-24 yrs ago and saved the FP.... where is it hidden in my pile of crap..... 2nd box found it.... lubed it up to determine direction of flow.... installed..... runs ..... does not puke fuel out of the carb! shuts off.... if i open the valve to the return.... pump turns on.... shut valve.... pump turns off. since the rev doesn't work.... i tried to push it backwards.... friggin front wheels locked up.... ended up pulling the calipers apart and cleaning everything and honing the cylinders..... wow... i think the gunk is gone. .... tomorrow is try to fix reverse problem... i think since i shortened the shift rod ..... the reverse switch is binding with the shift rod.... gunna try to remove the switch and plug the hole. then add a toggle switch for reverse

 

ok todays adventure.... pull the trans..... again..... glad i got it down to about 14 minutes. pulled the tail housing off and the shifter housing..... i seriously think my trans had a different lockout mechanism.... when i had the transmission vertical..... it would shift to reverse.... looked deep into the shifter housing... there is a shift detent and spring that has a broke spring.... it is kicking my butt.... so i removed it.... it hauls ass and goes into reverse. I AM GOING TO CALL THIS A MAJOR WIN. future .... instrumentation.... tunes.... wheels and lopro tires . probably going to swap the U14T springs onto the cushman struts to get rid of the positive camber..... and install a toggle switch for the back up LED light ...... the lifeless blob of afterbirth is runnin and driving YEAAAAAAAAAA

 

been reading stupid stuff..... woo hoo went from 30 HP to 58 HP.

3G81
Single carb (1987)

• Engine type — Inline three-cylinder SOHC
• Compression ratio — 9.8:1
• Fuel system — Single down-draft carburettor
• Power — 22 kW (30 PS; 30 hp) at 6500 rpm
• Torque — 41 N⋅m (30 lb⋅ft) at 3000 rpm
  
  
  4G82
  Displacement — 1,061 cc (64.7 cu in)
  Bore — 65 mm (2.56 in)
  Stroke — 80 mm (3.15 in)
  Engine type — Inline four-cylinder SOHC
  Power — 43 kW (58 PS; 58 hp) JIS at 5,500 rpm
  Torque — 9.1 kg⋅m (89 N⋅m; 66 lb⋅ft) at 3,500 rpm[4]
  
  Of the same dimensions as the 3G82 but with a fourth cylinder, this was built in Taiwan by CMC (China Motor Corporation). Used in the Mitsubishi Varica (LWB version of fourth generation Mitsubishi Minicab).
  

 

todays adventure..... since the back up light needed a lens.... i bought a 1000 Lumen square light to swap in for less. cut the back panel to fit will blend it in when i get it ready for paint. added a toggle switch to turn on the back up light since i chopped the shift rod and the ball brg has nothing to sit on. it was an industrial truck..... it has a back up beeper.... kinda kewl. modded the center console to fit better. new trick i figured out..... cheep plastic interior pieces that get all chalky.....run a heat gun over it and it micro melts the chalky shit back into the plastic!!!!! test drove it up to the neighbors....the front brakes locking up... again.... verified not the booster.... going to start looking for new flexi brake lines.... only way to get it back to the house..... crack the bleeders to relieve the pressure. happy happy joy joy joy.... it's all good.

 

let there be light!

 

There is a anti-bleedback valve on disc brake systems, which maintains just a little pressure so teh pads don’t retract. It could have something clogging it so it isn’t allowing any bleed back. Have you tried bleeding the brakes until you get new clean fluid out?

 

pumped a big bottle through the system and cleaned and honed the front calipers.... fluid comes out pretty good.... i'll ckeck all the fitting this weekend and see if something else is blocked.... they go to crap after about an hr of running and getting the fluid temp up..... next monday,, worst case.... new lines.

 

did a temp a patch installed the cushman pass seat base into the u14T drivers side.... not great but will give me time to get the original foamed and re covered

 

Took the rubber brake lines off.... All 5. Went to a hydraulic hose shop...he basically said he was too expensive (didn't want to work)...and take to auto parts store.....wtf....went to O'Reilly and tried matching them up...on order...only thing we couldn't figure out was. Are they fine thread ends...will find out when they show up

 

I hate dealing with brake lines. I like getting AN conversions and just using dash- line on them. Still need to figure out the proper thread though.

 

When I did my brakes, last yr., I also went to O'reilly's, and they let me take a look at there metric selection just like we used to, in the old days! I was able to match up, everything that I needed, brake hose lines, and short, nickel copper lines! I love that stuff! I wish that I could remember what size thread, it was. I do think that I took the right size metric bolts, and matched up that way!
Limestone

 

4 of the 5 brake lines worked..... had to drill out the mount holes to get them to clip in.... funny it was the line to the rear that was the wrong thread pitch will get a new one in the future....installed, bled, another set of cushman wheels with almost new good year tars( still got the tits on them.... light dry rot) haulled ass to the gas station couple miles down the road. brakes appear to be good. the front springs from the cushman van might be a lil stiff. hit a bump and everything on the dash... moved to the floor or my lap. overall i think it will make a nice local back roads truck.

 

got some gauges to go in the dash.... tacho volt vac. got a set of axle shims to lessen the bind? on the u joints just in case. that drive shaft is pretty short. also got the wheel spacers for the rim upgrade... now can either go oldschool libras or miata or fat 5 or HX stockers nd a set of ebay acorns

 

Ok the brand new 185/70-14 tars are 24 inches in diameter....on the front of a mild lifted 2wd.....newp that ain't gunna fit...... thought it would rub on the front....newp...rubs on the back at almost full lock.....time to price them low profile tars next

 

Looks like 165/55-14 eBay tires are in my future...... 4 for 150 delivered....they are 21 inches in diameter.....the 50 series are 21.6 inches in diameter......and 190$......

 

yesterday installed the Vac and tach on the right side above the glove box and today i installed and wired up the digital volt meter on the left side above the fuse block. pics might show up