1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

Adding a new fuse box...

Discussion in 'Subaru Sambar' started by Rexspeedworthy, Mar 29, 2020.

  1. Rexspeedworthy

    Rexspeedworthy New Member

    I want to add a new fuse box so I can add additional lights and whatnot. I like a negative ground, so is it possible to run from the positive terminal of the battery to the new fuse box, then grounding it to the frame.. Thus making it a negative ground for that fuse box only? If not I may just add another battery and run this fuse box independent of everything else. It will only be powering LEDs for light bars and other small things such as car phone chargers.
     
  2. Limestone

    Limestone Well-Known Member

    I'm pretty sure that Jigs, did it! He has a lit of experience with this and I'm hoping that he'll add to this! My thought's are you might want to increase your alternator output!
     
  3. Rexspeedworthy

    Rexspeedworthy New Member

    I'm more than likely going to go with the second battery option oh, but I am still concerned with grounding to the frame. I was going to put a solar trickle charger on that particular battery.
     
    Limestone likes this.
  4. Limestone

    Limestone Well-Known Member

    Rex,
    You and I think alike! Your preaching to the choir! Seriously, I'm not that far ahead with my project yet, but I am considering those same thoughts! My recommendation is, do your research and know what you want to accomplish! Please keep us updated, I will be following closely!
    Limestone
     
  5. Rexspeedworthy

    Rexspeedworthy New Member

    Well, this is me doing some research. LOL. if I get no more information than I have right now, I'm going to go with an alternative battery and ground on that battery only. Most everything I plan on doing is in the cab anyway.
    I'll probably use that battery spot underneath the SamBar seat.

    My friend has an old Harley-Davidson electric golf cart girl be curious as to if I could run a pulley on the drive shaft to the front wheels to the electric motor. Then use it as extra power when needed. It's a 36 volt motor so that's three more batteries. With the four wheel drive not engaged oh, perhaps I could do burnouts with the front tires and then the rear tires. We'll see how that goes.
     
  6. installater

    installater Active Member

    I don't know if this will help or not, but go to superbrightleds.com
    in the search box type in wiring harness & relays
    pick one & clic on it when all the info comes up scroll down
    to documentation
    clic wire harness install or switch install
    you don't have to buy there products, but you may get
    a idea of what you want to do or need just a thought
    Regards
    Brian
    .
     
    Limestone and Rexspeedworthy like this.
  7. banzairx7

    banzairx7 Active Member

    No reason your original plan won't work. Are you trying to completely isolate it from the existing system for some reason? If there's no specific reason sharing grounds between the two fuse boxes wouldn't have any ill effects or change the function of either fuse box.

    Not sure how many circuits you need. I've used these boxes and really like them. They have built in relays too which is nice. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075M4PRG2

    upload_2020-3-30_8-5-16.png
     
    Limestone and Rexspeedworthy like this.
  8. Rexspeedworthy

    Rexspeedworthy New Member

    Thanks fellows.
     
  9. matt167

    matt167 Active Member

    the trucks are negative ground, with most of the switching done on the ground side they are wired a bit differently than conventional wiring. It allows fewer wires to be used as some wires can be grounded or powered depending on switch function. They can be a MESS to trace a short
     
    Limestone likes this.
  10. Limestone

    Limestone Well-Known Member

    TELL ME!!!!
     
  11. Jigs-n-fixtures

    Jigs-n-fixtures Well-Known Member

    The hardest part of mounting extra fuse panels and relays on my Hijet was figuring out where to mount them. The little trucks don’t have much room to add anything. Luckily my truck has the scissors/dump option which leave enough room just behind the cab to mount things. I’m not sure where I would have found room with the standard bed setup.

    As someone else said, these trucks are all negative ground. But, you can wire the fuse box, and any individual circuit any way you want. It is DC, so you can just decide where you want to land which wire. The only thing you have to do is run the “ground” wire in addition to the “hot”.
    But with a negative ground vehicle, the frame is a very large ground bus, and you only have to run one wire.
    DA3AE692-2D0B-4A2A-B22B-38106DCE7EB7.jpeg
    This is turned sideways, needs to rotate 90 clockwise. The one on the right is my shore power junction. It contains a thermal switch to feed power to the heater pads, when it is below freezing, and one lead to the battery maintenance charger which is always on, if the truck is plugged in.
    B3550F5C-3518-4382-9ED7-F64811B71AB0.jpeg
    Not sure what is going on. This photo needs to also rotate clockwise. This is the bump-in at the bottom of the cab. I have a relay box for: the rear light bar, fuel pump, and some of the front light bar; a junction box, where most of the lights except the headlight tie together; the battery charger; and, a RV plug setup mounted in the hollow at the bottom of the cab. On a standard truck without the dump bed, this area is the front of the bed, and exposed.
    4FD52C8C-0C5D-4B4B-AE76-59598A6ED066.jpeg
    This is what I think is a heat shield, if I had the cat converter still mounted. I have a fuse block here, which has both positive and negative busses, this is where all kinds of things hook in: rear lights power; The power for the fuel pump; the headlights.
     
  12. Rexspeedworthy

    Rexspeedworthy New Member

    Well in my reading I thought all these mini trucks were positive ground. When the LED headlights did the aforementioned lunacy, I assumed the Sambar was the same. There are some wires hacked all over this truck. I guess it's time to start tracing... Ugh.
    Why do both my jobs have to be essential???
    FB_IMG_1585145444374.jpg
     
  13. Rexspeedworthy

    Rexspeedworthy New Member

    Thanks for all the great ideas. I'm still planning on running an extra fuse box, but my concerns aren't as great as they once were.
     
  14. Jigs-n-fixtures

    Jigs-n-fixtures Well-Known Member

    What I’ve used:
    Xscorpion CMANL48P Compact Platinum Mini ANL Inline Fuse Holder with 4/8 Gauge Inputs and Outputs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ITN2V2K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_im0GEbP6MDZX4
    I upgraded to a 90-amp alternator, and this is in the feed to the battery. Stock setups use fuseable links, but they don’t make those for 4-guage wire.

    6-Way Fuse Block W/Negative Bus - Soyond ATC/ATO Fuse Box with LED Warning Indicator & Durable Protection Cover for Automotive Car Boat Marine RV Truck DC 12-24V, Fuses Not Included https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SQ12XF9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_lo0GEbPRZQP82
    This mounts on the heat shield, next to the battery. I landed things that need two wires to it. The battery charger is one thing hooked up here.

    MICTUNING 12V 5 Pin Waterproof Relay Harness Set - SPDT Bosch Style Automotive 40Amp 30 Amp Relay with Heavy Duty 16AWG 14AWG Pre-wired Harness 5 pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Q4MD8RG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_jp0GEbNYZW9SE
    I needed to mount up a couple of relays out in the open where they are exposed. road salt is murder on unprotected wiring.

    Nineleaf ABS Plastic Dustproof Waterproof IP66 Junction Box Outdoor External Universal Electrical Project Enclosure Grey 125x86x62mm (4 7/8" 3 1/4" 2 1/4") fit 20mm Cable Gland for Outdoor Use https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077QM9VM9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_ir0GEb0NBMP03
    There were a couple of junction locations outside the cab, that needed to be water/dust proof. One is my shore power setup, and the other a bus strip where all the lights land.

    LIMICAR 40 LED Trailer Tail Lights Kit Waterproof Turn Signal Brake Reverse Running Lights LED Tail Light for Truck Boat Trailer UTV UTE RV Camper Pickup (2 Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07R1317CZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_3s0GEbFCWD47Z
    The Stock taillights got blocked by my heavy duty bumper. So, I replaced them with these.

    Xprite RZ Series RYWYR 30" Offroad Rear Chase LED Strobe Light bar w/Turn Signal Brake Reverse for UTV, ATV, Polaris RZR XP 1000 900, Side by Sides, 4x4, Trophy Truck, Dune Buggy, Trophy Truck https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0713WJX3Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_Ou0GEbCZGAK3X
    If I was doing it now, I’d buy the 36-inch version, with the two revers lights.

    Proline 12ft 7-Way Inline Trailer Plug Cord with 7 Gang Wiring Junction Box Weatherproof and Corrosion Resistant https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MSZHRH9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_Kx0GEbKPH6JX8
    This is to connect the top light bar. It makes it so I change out between a light set fro the snowplow, and a cargo basket for summer.

    12V Auto Waterproof Fuse Relay Box Block [6 Bosch Style Relay Holder] [6 ATC/ATO Fuse Holder] Universal Relay Block Box for 12V Automotive Vehicles Cars Marine Boat Jeep Light Equipment https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MR64XK1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_M12GEbG9QW8XC
    This is how I wired up the rear lights. I intercepted the wiring harness going to the bumper, and used those wires for the controls for the relays. I wired the hot feed direct from the main secondary fuse panel, and then fused each circuit. I have a lead from here to the back, and one to a junction box/terminal strip, just behind the cab. The one at the cab ties into the wiring for the light bars to run the, running lights, turn signals and reverse lights on the light bars.

    6 Gang Switch Panel, OFFROADTOWN Electronic Relay System with Circuit Control Box Waterproof Fuse Relay Box Wiring Harness Label Stickers for Car Jeep Truck Marine Boat ATV UTV https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PZ7C5XJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_5i3GEbD3SQ4MC
    A version of this, to control the extra lights on the light bar. Kind of a pain to get the control wires up through the B-pillar and tucked into the space above the door, and around by the stock cab light. But it all worked out.
     
  15. rkrenicki

    rkrenicki Active Member

    There is a pretty big difference between switched ground circuits and positive ground. Many japanese cars are the same with switched ground circuits. It cuts down on the number of fuses and circuits you need (running one hot wire to a headlight assembly, instead of 2+), but it makes things weird to say the least.

    As for positive ground, I do not believe that any 12v vehicles used it.. my recollection is that all positive ground vehicles were 6v, which was phased out in the 50s.
     

Share This Page