I have a 91 S80 2WD, How do you remove the studs in the back, do you use a claw puller. It looks like I have to pull the front nut and cotter pin to take the fronts off does that sound right? Thanks Mark
I'm assuming you have 4 wheel drum brakes...and you want to remove the wheel studs..?.the drums need the centre nut removed and then once the drums are removed you can tap the studs out with a hammer (careful not to mushroom the heads and threads of the studs when tapping them out...bolting a lug nut on before tapping them out will keep them from mushrooming)
I figured that was how the fronts came off, how about the rears, I have tried a drum removing tool and it does not budge. I have soaked the center with Kroil and still no help. Any ideas.......Thanks Mark
if you haven't already loosened the adjuster nuts on the rear shoes ,do that first...you hay need a puller to remove the rear drums,they're pressed on pretty tight...once the centre nut and washers are removed you could try loosely putting a rear wheel back on and pulling on that..you would get more torque that way wiggling side to side,but in the end you may need a puller
I did not loosen the rear shoes is that done through the small rear hole? And after I loosen up the shoes I will try the puller again. It just seamed like it was budging. Thanks for the input. Mark
yes ..there is a toothed adjuster that needs to be turned as you pull the arm sideways against the spring to bring the shoes in away from the drum...like a toothed cam. Almost forgot there is a brake system pdf posted here by McGeorge http://www.minitrucktalk.com/showthread.php?p=72991#post72991
Looking at the manual it just shows a parking brake strut I do not see a tooth adjuster in the illustrations. It just shows installing and adjusting but nothing about taking off. Mark
page br-6 it's not like a regular wheeled adjuster on most drum brakes...its a toothed cam matched up with teeth on the parking brake strut...you lever them apart and move the adjuster up or down
Doing the pass side I tried to move lever apart still can't get it off I think I am doing something wrong. Looking through the hole should I see the teeth on top or below strut lever. Sorry the first time is always the hardest. Mark
Parking brake all the way down, and drum rotates easy that's why I can believe the shoes are holding the drum on.
Got the drums off, now how do you remove the axle. Do you take the 4 bolts through the 2 holes on the axle flange, and will I have to take the brake lines off the backing plate. The manual I have shows a different picture of the axle. In the picture the wheel studs are on the drum? On mine the studs are on the axle flange. As I rotate the axle I hear a clunk as the axle rotates, I want to take a look at the bearings. Mark
Yes remove those 4 bolts and the brake lines..then you will prob need a slidehammer to remove the axles
I have an S80LP, so it looks like I need to do this. So I find a rubber plug in the drum, poke a screwdriver through it at the 12 o'clock position, and then wiggle the adjuster. Then, I take off the drum. (How? I don't see anything that can help me pull it off, which is why someone recommended putting the wheel back on at this point?) I am now faced with a plate that I gather looks like this: https://minitrucktalk.com/attachments/brake-jpg.15019/ that I must somehow unbolt from the axle in the rear? This seems pretty confusing, so I hope someone can give me a few clues. Thanks. I'd like to look at bearings and remove wheel studs for replacement. Incidentally, these wheel studs seem to be 3/8-20 threads. I can't find anything in the world that used 3/8-20 lug nuts. The 3/8-24 I bought clearly don't work, so I was going to press in new ones with a more standard thread.
You are far enough. The definite way to do it is to remove the brake components, and then tap the studs back and out. You might be able to rotate each stud to the five o’clock position and tap it out there. I’ve never tried it, so I can’t guarantee that it will work. But if it doesn’t work, then you need to strip the brake components. And you’re studs should be metric.
After further review, the studs are 10 mm -- M10 x 1.25 mm -- which in case anyone gets into this issue again, is very similar to what appears on the surface measurements to be something like the (unheard-of) 3/8" x 20 threads per inch.
