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Lifting a Suzuki

Discussion in 'Suzuki Carry' started by JRinTX, Jun 1, 2007.

  1. Cole

    Cole Member

    Blocks won't help you in the rear. The axle is underslung. You have to convert it to overslung by adding new spring perches ontop of the axle. It gives you about 4-1/2" in the rear. I also have 2-1/2" spacers in the front with 300# springs. Also did a full subframe/ diff drop and lowered the engine and trans 2" to keep good driveshaft angles. I also run 25" and they rub a bit. Need to do a bit of trimming. You would have to have a lot more lift to fit 27".


     
  2. mtnxtreme

    mtnxtreme Member


    Yes I planned on moving the axle under the springs, thats what I meant, then blocks to level with the front. So you used 2-1/2" blocks then dropped subframe and differential basically the same amount, 2-1/2 " to compensate for angles ? When you do that drop you also pick up another 2-1/2" of lift, correct ? If you look back to page 7 of this thread, you will see a member ( Fierce ) sounds like he did the same as you and has a pic of his truck with 27's !
     
  3. Cole

    Cole Member

    In the front you only get as much lift as the size of spacer you put above the strut. Dropping the subframe doesn't lift the truck and more. It just brings the CV angles back to stock (or close). It also corrects camber and unstuffs the CV's. I built my own spacers without any camber correction because when lowering the sub frame you want everything to go completely vertically down. No changes in angle. I could only drop the subframe and engine/trans 2". Mainly because the shift cables weren't long enough for 2-1/2". Also the front sub frame needed to stay at the same height with respect to the engine crossmember so the drive shaft would clear.

    In all I have a 1/2" increase in the front over stock which is nothing considering guy and go 2" without issues.

    As far a tires you need to make sure that the actual OD is correct. I have 25" that measure 24-3/4" and that's about max. I know some tire will say 27" but in reality be 26" or even less. They are never exact. In fact almost always measure under.
     
    mtnxtreme likes this.
  4. Cole

    Cole Member

  5. mtnxtreme

    mtnxtreme Member

    Quote from Fierce on Page 7 of this thread : "I have a total of 7.5 inches of lift with lift and tires, everything is correct, camber, toe along with both front and rear pinion angles. Goes down the road great, 55mph hands off the wheel stays going straight as an arrow. I don't think I've done anything new here by any means but I have 27s on it with no issues all parts fabbed up by me and all work done in one long day with my 14 year old son.
    Best part is it will roll 55 w no issue at all and the RPMS are in check now. Drives way way better. Had it to 65mph today no issue other than me not being 100% comfortable with it lol.

    Rear axle spring swap, 2.5 strut spacers, 250 lb American made springs, modified cross member to clear front shaft, lowered front diff cross member 3 inches and adjustable front diff mounts for pinion angle adjustability in case I decide to go higher. Fenders are massaged. Tires are 27x8.5xR14 on 14x7 beadlocks with 4+3 off set NOT 5+2, 5+2 would have caused all sorts of issues no doubt."
     
  6. Cole

    Cole Member

    I am betting those 27" measure closer to 25".
     
  7. Cole

    Cole Member

    Driveshaft angles are pretty extreme without lowering the entire drivetrain if you are going to do an axle flip. Not to mention the shafts are too short. I had to machine spacers to keep the proper spline enguagement. When I do things I like to do I properly so I will never have issues down the road. You can throw lots of lift in pretty quickly but in order to make all your joints last it takes a bit more work to do it right.
     
  8. mtnxtreme

    mtnxtreme Member


    Just looked on Maxxis site, 26.3 inches tall.
     
  9. mtnxtreme

    mtnxtreme Member


    Is all the info in your write up ?
     
  10. warrined

    warrined New Member

    I have a 1996 Suzuki carry-all and I am running a 4 inch lift with 27x9x12 zilla tires with no problems, I used 2 1/2 inch pipe and sloped it the same as a purchased 2 inch lift, yes with this size tires it is under powered but I only use it in the bush and mud roads so speed is not a problem
     

    Attached Files:

  11. Watercat

    Watercat New Member

    Thats a great picture
     
  12. Billy_Retired

    Billy_Retired New Member

    Any body try the progressive front springs?
     
  13. KCCats

    KCCats Active Member

    Yes they have and ride is better but I went with straight 300# and could have gone more
    But the camber goes way off on the older %1 series with no way to adjust
    So depending on why?
    A spring And a 2" lift/camber adjusting may be the best combo
     
  14. baorganics

    baorganics New Member

    Reviving @KCCats post above and following with a question: Can one get away with simply installing the progressive springs for a little xtra clearance and better ride performance without installing a lift kit or throwing off the CV joint angle? I'm not bothered by the stock ride height and often carry heavy loads on a 50mph road which simply requires more stability. Thoughts?
     
  15. KCCats

    KCCats Active Member

    The heavy load above 40 is going to be an issue.
    I have mine down pat now!
    Issue is the CASTOR not so much Camber
    Camber (tilt) just wears tires!
    Castor (rearward lean) will give you the Death Wobble!
    If the strut is straight up and down there is no travel angle
    for the lack of better wording
    At speed a bump will want to just push Backwards instead of upwards
    So I have a G&R 2" lift with adjustment
    So better springs and the lower lift and push it back and outward!

    Remember the better springs will lift the front end (witch increases the castor as well)
     
  16. baorganics

    baorganics New Member

    @KCCats I understand completely, picturing the wheel wobble on shopping carts whose front wheels are pitched rearward. So you have found the G+R adjustable 2" inch lift allows the progressive springs to be installed with proper caster?
     
  17. KCCats

    KCCats Active Member

    Yep castor and camber
    They are VERY simple
    Bolts right in, remember the top of strut needs to move out and backwards
    There is a grove to get it where you want then tighten bolt
    No nut to hold or anything
    Just use your nuts to bolt on top then new to hold to body
    Then a large bolt and washer over the groove!
    It will take longer to get it jacked up then to install
     
  18. baorganics

    baorganics New Member

    Ok wonderful - ordered the 2" lift and will be installing next week! The guy at GR said the springs we see out on the web are not really mini truck specific so best bet is to find some locally for cheap and trim. Thanks for the tip @KCCats
     
  19. KCCats

    KCCats Active Member

    Depending on your mods 275# should be plenty?
    Summit has 10" x 2.65ID springs no cutting required!
     
  20. baorganics

    baorganics New Member

    275 is more than enough, I don't want to end up with the whole truck leaning backwards.
    Cant seem to find the spring length on the Summit site. Can you shoot a link to the 10" spring you mentioned? Much appreciated friend
     
  21. KCCats

    KCCats Active Member

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