I have been looking for a front & rear wheel bearings for my 1989 Attack, and all I have been able to find online are HA3 bearings and later. Anyone know by chance if the later model bearings are the same as the earlier bearings?
check here in the parts catalog https://minitrucktalk.com/threads/parts-diagrams-parts-search-by-frame-number.17214/
Thank you. A great resource. The wheel bearing cross references to late 80's ('88-'89) CRX and early 90's ('91) Accord wheel bearing. HA2 front wheel bearing. •44300-SB2-004 Or •44300-SB2-018 - (succeeded by, 44300-SB2-038)
https://www.rexbo.eu/jakoparts/wheel-bearing-kit-j4704007?c=100579&at=3769 Part Number: JAKOPARTS: J4704007 Original part numbers (only for comparison) HONDA: 91251-SA7-025 - 91251-SA7-013 - 91250-SA7-013 - 91051-SA7-018 - 44300-SB2-008 - 44300-SB2-018 - 44300-SB2-028 - 44300-SB2-038 Further references: ASHIKA: 44-24014 - 44-14007 BORG & BECK: BWK363 CORTECO: 19029705B JAPANPARTS: KK-24014 - KK-14007 JAPKO: 424014 - 414007 MAGNETI MARELLI: 600000137360 OPTIMAL: 911782 QUINTON HAZELL: QWB2431 - QWB2430 SNR: R174.06
Thanks to Shogun for pointing me to this thread. Anyone want to share their experience and lessons learned changing out their front bearings? I just put in an order for new bearings, and will be changing them out maybe around the first week of October. Also if anyone has a list of tourq spec for an HA4 that would be super helpful; there's very limited data available even on the Japanese version of the internet.
I just changed out the drivers front bearing, very straight forward and went smooth. One thing that did happen was I manged to push the back race out of the bearing when pushing the hub. This happened because the plate I used on the back was not resting against the bearing, but instead it was on the knuckle. This was noticeable when I pushed in the hub; it was wiggling around loose. Looked at the back side and saw the race pushed out. To correct it I simply put a smaller plate on the press tool and pushed it back into place. From what I've seen online, this should not be an issue, and driving it around it seems to be ok. The other issue I came across was the metal protector plate on the top side of the assembly. I did not take the knuckle off the vehicle to do the change, and since the two screws holding in this plate were super rusty, I decided not to mess with taking that off. During the install I was leaning on and bumping into this plate the entire time. Since its a thin piece of steel it bends easily. After putting everything back together I took the truck for a test spin and heard some grinding. Immediately I assumed I messed up the bearing by pushing out that back race and, began cursing myself... Put the truck back in the garage and jacked it up. Started spinning the wheel and it became clear that it was the rotor hitting that plate. Took the the tire off, pushed the plate back and, boom, no more sound. I started to do the passenger side front, but the axle is pretty seized into the hub. Tried hitting it with a hammer but the thing would not budge. I may try pulling the hub with my slide hammer with the axle still in there, but am worried about what type of damage I should suspect to happen to the CV... Any tips or pointers? Am I going to have to procure a new CV and Knuckle as I've seen being reported out there on the internet...? This video ( ) was super helpful, I basically followed it step by step, minus his tip not to blow out that back race. There is a differences with how the knuckle attaches to the Acty, you can either pull the ball joint or the knuckle from below the spring to get the axle to slide completely out. Just make sure you reattach before pulling the hub.
