OK... so first- no vacuum leaks around (EGR) plug plate, carb ports, or manifold ports. Choke pulls and maintains vacuum. Truck starts and idles until up to operating temp. Once at operating temp it wants to stall. I can keep it from stalling by closing the choke valve until the engine catches back up. I release the spring tab and the engine runs for a few minutes before it stumbles and wants to die again. Close choke valve and it'll catch back up and I can do this until I tire of it. So, now I think the choke needs an adjustment. Don's carb tuning pages point to a choke adjustment screw- should I fiddle with that? Picture link shows the screw I'm asking about- it looks like it runs into the thermo wax housing. Also- the screwdriver is on the spring tab that I rotate CCW to keep the engine from stalling. https://picasaweb.google.com/105094...hkey=Gv1sRgCLi3xIe3ofHhfg#5899447240436702370
That green bulb is an extreme restrictor. You'd need a leak-down-test on it to confirm flow. Checking it by hand, mouth vacuum, it appears to be blocked at both ends. During engine cranking, the choke butterfly valve remains closed. After it lights, the choke butterfly takes 2 seconds to open 10 degrees, pauses for 1 second, then opens a further 5 degrees in the 4th second. Engine RPM changes accordingly. 3 distinct RPM phazes. At shutdown, the choke butterfly closes very smoothly over a period of 4 seconds. Very stable operations. I guess that my memory works just fine...
As to your last update, The gizmos should be fixed first before trying any adjustments except base idle. You'll just be revisiting the systems every time you find something out of wack and fix it...then adjust again...and again, one more time, then adjust again... Hot idle stalling, adjust front idle screw to run at 1500 RPM, at the highest of the variation. Then work on some more bugs... Enjoy..
hmm.. my choke valve opens ~90 degrees when at operating temp; fully open, no restriction of air at all- so, that's not right? Also- is that green restrictor a common part I can get at a local parts store or should I shop online at a mini truck part site?
There are two stages of choke operation. The first is via vacuum control; the mode that I was describing. The second is via push-pin and the water jacket. That post has nothing to do with the second stage choke operation or any choke butterfly angle less than 85%. (100% of choke being closed) from 85% to 0% (90 degrees); second stage/push pin. Read this, http://www.minitrucktalk.com/showthread.php?13441-CHOKE-Idle-is-too-high
Thanks, great info- I've bookmarked it for future reference. I'm pretty sure I don't have any problems during startup as it always starts and gets to operating temp. My problems occur after warmup . I was trying to get the idle down to 950-1K so I could verify the timing- guess I can be satisfied at 1500 for now.
No worries man, It's the details that matter. If you have no idle up system, and you don't, then you need to run at 1500 to take the load of the alt properly. If you had an idle up, you could set to 1000 as the system would be flexable. Maybe start a list for missing components and just make an order over the winter; Japan direct. The timing, not a huge deal right now, set it for load, with no ping; old school.
Agreed- It's running now and not sucking air, so that in itself is a victory. I'll probably order a fast idle/ idle up system but for now I just need to get it out and run the piss outta it. Maybe I might shake the rest of the gremlins out? Got new Bear Claws coming in TUE and then off to camp next week for a pig hunt, I think.
I've heard that pig blood runs off all kinds of evil things so that pig hunt is probably a great idea.
Maybe this has been covered but looking at all the different carb configs, I've seen a lot of different setups. So my question is is it all that important to put the correct vacuum line back to the same barb it came off of on the carb or can it go on any as long as its hooked back up? I've seen where some have it going to distrib from a different port than mine. Just curious whether or not it matters or if each carb port does something different.
To anybody reading this post in 2016 ish, I just recently swapped motors and had to deal with vacuum line puzzle, here is a diagram that I found and modified (as my carb had 2 ports on the left side (looking away from engine) and 3 on the right. The only one that I did not have on here is the one that goes from the air cleaner to the center of the intake manifold
95 CARRY , CHANGED CARBS, OLD ONE WAS 3+2 NEW ONE I GOT SENT TO ME IS 3+1 . SAID IT WOULD WORK FIT MY TRUCK. DON'T KNOW WHERE ALL VACUUM LINES GO NOW . COULD SOMEONE PLEASE SHOW ME A SIMPLE DIAGRAM OF HOW TO HOOK IT ALL BACK UP. IT WILL START BUT WON'T IDLE THANKS
You can go to "www.suzuki-forums.com/suzuki-carry-every-forum/" and snoop around there some too. There has been some discussions about vacuum lines. Fred
westendangler do you happen to have the complete diagram of the vacuum lines cause iam having a problem tracing the connection of the vacuum lines ....cause all of the lines was disconnected i need the diagram of G181p00001
