So did you install a new muffler? Or is it literally just straight pipe from the cat back??? And how loud are you talking? Obnoxious or just annoying? I kind of dont care but i dont want to sound like some spectacle driving down the road... or beach
Hahahaha I've had to use the board trick too hahahaha The muffler isn't too obnoxious. The kids seem to like it. I think I'm just getting old............... You will have to tweak the timing if you strait pipe it or your lifters will clatter due to the lack of back pressure. Now the fun part your probably not going to enjoy until its done................. The lift that you put on essentially pushes the wheel down. What its doing is using available travel and shifting the "neutral" position of the arm/wheel, to a lower point. Then when you put the stiffer spring on.............. They took weight off the shock. Allowing it to stretch so to speak............. Pushing the wheel even farther down in its available range of travel............... So........... Let's sat that stock the wheel CAN travel 12 inches up and down. Neutral position would assumably be roughly at the 6 inch mark. ( these aren't accurate numbers, just easy reference)....... So when you put the lift block on top of the strut, it shifted that neutral position down to 4 inches rather then 6.............. Add the inch or so that the stiffer springs will add and now let's say that neutral position becomes 3 inches............ Yes you just lifted the rig............. But in doing so........ You essentially pushed the suspension down in its range of motion............... Nothing else is lowered............. So.......... In order to fix the camber and the axle angle so you don't wear out those super expensive axles, your going to have to lower the entire front end so that you can return the stock range of motion and stock angles. Its easier then it sounds. I was able to do it!!!!!! I know that you can!!!! I did a pretty good weight up on it here in the group. Should have all the info ya need. I mean.......... I pulled off a 7 inch lift............ And I'm just a guy that lives in an igloo with my pet penguins!!!!!!!
So your saying the camber adjustment bolts probably arent going to resolve my problem! Blast! Drop the whole front end... i mean i think i know what your saying but! That means the front diff, transfer case! And cross member bar.... Not to mention wont that effectively bring my clearance back down as well? Argh! I just dont understand, i guess ill have to contact the guy who sole me the kit but i was told this lift would mainatain factory angles... Maybe im still within the tolerances? Welp ill look at your thread for sure! Whats the name of the thread? Either way thanks again amigo!
A question that is asked often, and I think that the guys here tend to make things a little too complicated sometimes. Especialy when the ultimate answer to a solution can swing action so dramatically from easy, to hard. Will a camber correction bolt work for my application? To solve my current camber correction adjustment problem? Well, lets go back, back to "first principles". The question of application; 1) do you have two bolts securing the strut to the steering knuckle? 2) if yes, can both bolts be removed? Then, remove the top bolt and loosen the bottom bolt. Then, allow the system to compress (let the truck sit on the ground), compress so that the top of the strut, and the steering knuckle move inward, toward the engine bay. Like a lock-blade type knife, the two components angle inward to provide a camber adjustment, during normal operational loading, that align the tires to a position that seems to place the flats of the tires squarely on the ground. (tire tops have to move inward) Role the truck back and forth 10 or so feet to let everything settle down into position. Even if it's close, the inner part of the strut mounting can be ground down (surface removal) so that the system can be brought into alignment. If this is even close, if this seems to look OK, Then YES, a camber correction bolt will work for your application, and You don't even need to buy anything to figure this out. Just take the strut top mounting bolts out, and loosen the lowers, then let the truck adjust itself and sit as low as it can in this configuration, The camber bolts, they just lock it all down, just as it now sits... spaner...
Spaner!! The elusive! Its been a long time thanks for the input buddy! Love the idea... Moose no disrespect here love ya to death bro but im sure what may seem pretty easy to you could be a lot more difficult for me, but thanks for the vote of confidence, ill bet i could do it too Then again Its taken me and my buddy a few sessions at least just to get the wheels i have to fit hahaha! Im sure by the time you've got your truck lifted 10 inches a measly 2" adjustment is peanuts but im an amateur at best here. Either way... that all makes sense spanner, ive actually already ordered the adjustment bolts that you had recommended on another thread just on the assumption it would work for my application. But if they dont come today ill def try loosening the bolt you speak of and removing top bolt..... I guess my only question for you is even if the bolts are able to correct my camber issue is the rest of my setup still within acceptable tolerances? In other words even if i get the wheels to sit flat am i going to blow up my front diff or other components due to the lift? Im obviously learning here but for some reason i thought when i was told that this style lif kit would maintain all factory angles it meant that i wouldn't have to worry about dropping my whole front end to match the lift. Anyway thanks again guys!
WTFO! I dont undertand :frustration: I installed the adjustment bolts and im not sure they did anything let alone enough to correct my camber problem. I mean im not even sure how the tires are supposed to sit but when i put a level up to the wheel when its grounded the bottom of the tire is a solid inch in from where the bottom of the level is... Is that like insane or not bad??? Like i said it doesnt seem like the camber bolts did much if anything, i followed directions, i could see the adjustment it was able to make but it just didnt seem like it was much better than the stock bolts. After installing them the wheel sat pretty much in the same spot on the ground.... with regard to the level i mean. ANyway i feel like ive done something wrong..... Unless the camber i have isnt as bad as i think... ANyway thats my update for now.
Ive been using the standard lift for many yrs. on our trucks. No slots. I bought a set of 3" lift off off ebay 7 yrs. + ago and my welder has been copying them ever since. After the first install we saw right off the bat the 3" wasnt going to work so we cut off a inch to make it a 2" lift. We use the 2" on Suzuki's and 1 1/2 to 1 3/4" lifts on Daihatsu's. The only thing we do after the install is adjust the steering rods towards the inside. The steering rods have two locking nuts on each end, break them and turn the whole rod to bring the tire back to true. We drive it around a little bit check it, make adjustments and lock the nuts. I dont have any ideal how many trucks we have done over the yrs. but not once have I had a call back on the 1 1/2 or 2" lift. But then again my average age buyer is 45 or older and most are farmers/ranchers. Those guys most likely will be a little easier on a truck then a 25 yr. old.
Everything needs to be adjusted now...op: Lobe and tab are in the above configuration to give maximum throw. With a 1.75" lift, I needed to dial the throw down to 75%, it was actually TOO much, so.. you got her wrong some how, but the pic is the best I can do for you. You'll just have to mess with her to figure it out...
Can anyone tell me about how plum/level the wheels/tires should sit stock? If i put a level up against a stock set up will it be pretty close to level?
Sooooo have you ever done a Mitsubishi? And by adjusting the steering rods your only correcting toe in not camber right??
Gotta remember bud, you didn't put a 3 inch lift on. Since you put the springs on at the same time........... I'm willing to bet that you have a 4 to 4.5 inch lift. If you drop the front diff, you only need to drop it half of the total amount of lift. No wear on the CV. But that's not the only issue........... I think if you put a 2 inch block in and drop the front, you won't have to cut your cross member but you will get the wheels to straiten out. Drop the diff 2 inches........ Then the front 2 inches.......... You'll need to buy new bolts, but that's all. Just take one of the stock bolts out and go down and buy 4 of them 2 inches longer. Even after I did all that to my mini-mog........... I still had to do what spaner said............. But we all know he is the man hahaha
Well it was actually a 2" lift.... and with the springs yeah maybe its closer to 3ish but i still think theres another reason i have so much camber. Maybe i was sold the wrong style, like for another model truck. Idk but it just seems like its way too much for such a small lift. But either way, ill look into dropping the diff. and front end.
Just curious....... Are your lift blocks at an angle? Taller on one side then the other? If so......... Did ya put the blocks in with the flat end, the one that's square and true with the inner tube section, on bottom and the taller side to the outside if the rig? I know......stupid question.......... But it is possible that if mounted upsidedown and back word that it would cause similar problems
If you have a dremmel you could do like spaner suggested and make the bolt holes longer and the center hole larger and push the strut in till you get the angle you need
I wouldnt say thats a stupid question at all! Ive honestly been wondering about that. Unfortunately the rig isnt home right now or i would go look but im 90% sure ive got the side thats flush with the inner tub on the inside of the wheel well and the higher of the two sides toward the outside of the wheel well. I was also half wondering if maybe the people i bought the lift kit from may have sent me the wrong kit, like for a different model. Is there an easy way to determine if its the right one? But yeah the blocks are different on both sides.
Yeah been considering this idea. But i swear something is wrong, cuz im pretty sure the camber is well beyond what can be adjusted by any of the easy fixes. Like i said with the a level up to the tire the bottom of the wheel is at least 1" away. That seems like a lot to me! Either way thanks for the effort buddy! I like the idea of dropping the diff if i wouldn't need to cut cross member.
dropping the front of the diff will bring the CV closer to strait as well as lift the drive line a bit where it goes into the front diff. not sure how else to help without being there or seeing a billion pics.......... If you did in fact get a 2 inch lift......... The camber shouldn't be that far off if their in the right direction and placed right side up........... Crazy..........
Yeah i dont really get it.... Ill have to have a better look at it when i get it back! Hopefully running better! THanks again moose ill keep ya posted guys!
Well my mechanic was able to do a rough measurement of the camber and says theres about 4 degrees positive. He also said he looked at how the lift was installed and thought it looked right to him. So im still at a loss, i have called the guy who sold me the kit and he said he would have to have the guy who built it get in touch. So until i get this figured im not even driving the thing.... So if anyone has any suggestions feel free.
Would 23" tires on 14" wheels make the lift any higher than 23" tires on 12" wheels? Maybe this is the issue...
Welp, turns out it was the springs that created the camber! Pulled them out today and im pretty much at 0 degrees, there may be a slight positive but not much. NOW!! Im back to almost rubbing!! Its why i put the springs on in the first place.... i have about a 1/4" clearance when the suspension is compressed, so i may cut the spring slightly?? Just to lift it a hair more. But for now at least its sitting flat
vacuum leaks are 85% of carb and idling problems, use a vacuum gauge or carb cleaner, carb cleaner will send the engine to high idle if you have a vacuum leak, make sure the vacuum port in the air cleaner canister is working properly, also check that your vacuum advance hose isn’t cracked coming off the distributor to the vacuum manifold tree. The vacuum manifold tree is brass on the bottom to go in to the block and plastic on top. Plastic wears out with time and will break or leak, which causes a vacuum leak. Some manifold vacuum trees are 3 or 4 port, make sure to replace it with a new one. When I buy parts I buy 3 at a time that way I have them on hand or in case they can’t get them any more. The vacuum manifold tree is located behind the carb. If you looking at the carb from the right side of the bed, it will be to your 1 O’clock tucked down inside. Remember to use a marker or different colored tape to mark the vacuum lines so you know where everything goes back too! Good luck!’