1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

Oil Leak / oil pump

Discussion in 'General Truck Info' started by Ran440, Nov 29, 2012.

  1. Ran440

    Ran440 Member

    Noticed new spots in the driveway the other day where I park the mini so I looked underneath and sure enough it's leaking. It appears to be coming off the front of the engine at the timing belt cover and dripping down on the front axle drive shaft.
    Judging by the location it my be a oil pump leak. Checked it out in the shop manual and first thoughts are this is not going to be pretty. According to the shop manual you have to drop the oil pan to replace the oil pump. Not sure if you can replace a seal without replacing the pump.
    If I wasn't worried about it getting on the timing belt I would just keep an eye on it and if it doesn't get too bad just drive it. So far it hasn't showed up on the dipstick.
    On a side note I switched to Rotella T6 synthetic oil about 10,000 km ago. I have heard that switching to a synthetic after using dyno oil can cause leaks??? Not sure if this is true.
    Any thoughts or suggestions about this situation?
     
  2. Daner

    Daner Member

    According to my Uni engine teacher Synthetic oil won't make new leaks only make existing leaks worse than conventional oil. Hard to say for sure since there is so much misinformation out there.

    I've never messed to much with the engine in my truck since everything has worked fine. So I don't know the anatomy but it seems odd to me though that a leaky oil pump would cause an exterior leak.
     
  3. Ran440

    Ran440 Member

    These oil pumps are not your usual in the oil pan type pump.
    The oil pump is located on the front of motor with the crank going through it. So I'm not sure if there is a crank seal there that can be replaced or if the whole pump has to be replaced. My repair manual doesn't show a separate seal.
     
  4. Jim Nelson

    Jim Nelson Active Member

    When I first got my '95 Scrum, which is the same as the Carry, it had a leak in that area that turned out to be the cam seal.It took a while and a lot of cleaning to finally locate it,
     
  5. Ran440

    Ran440 Member

    Wow. I just got done doing more poking around and found oil on the back side of the timing belt cover going up almost as far as the valve cover. Which would put it right in the cam area. So how hard was it to replace the cam seal?
     
  6. Jim Nelson

    Jim Nelson Active Member

    It's not that bad the hardest part for me was getting the nut off the crank shaft because my impact wrench was weak.I bought a new one and the rest was pretty easy.There is a sticky thread on changing the timing belt that is really good with pics and a real good step by step presentation.I think it was Greg who put it up.That is in the Suzuki area
     
    Last edited: Nov 29, 2012
  7. Ran440

    Ran440 Member

    Thanks man. Looks like I have a bunch of reading to do and tomorrow I'll need to clean off some gunk and confirm the leak location. I appreciate your replies.
     
  8. TRAX and HORNS

    TRAX and HORNS Well-Known Member

    Referring to your first post Ran. Changing to a syn. oil on a mid to high mileage engines can very well create a oil leak. Over time you have very small solids that build up in the seals which to some degree helps the seals seal. When you swap to syn. oil it will clean out those small solids in the seals and you have created a leak.
    When I first got into the mini truck business I started with replacing the oil from Japan with syn. oil and yes we had some trucks not all that started leaking oil. After seeing this I went back to conventional oil. However I would not hesitate to swap over to syn. if you had 25k miles or under.
    IMO
     
  9. Ran440

    Ran440 Member

    The reason I switched to synthetic oil is because today's conventional motor oil has had the zinc removed
    which older engines needed for flat tappet lubrication.
    The engine had about 48,000 km on it when I changed over to synthetic.
     
  10. Ran440

    Ran440 Member

    Pulled 1/2 of the timing belt cover off and here is what I found.

    **Looks like there is seepage and maybe the leak I am looking for near cam seal. No oil on the belt or gears.
    **Speaking of the belt there is about 1/2" of free play. Like the tensioner is not even trying to take up the slack.
    ** Remover the dipstick tube and there was no O-ring where it pushes into the block. Should there be?
    Timing belt 002.JPG Timing belt 004.JPG Timing belt 006.JPG Timing belt 007.JPG Timing belt 008.JPG Timing belt 009.JPG
    After taking the pics I realized how big of mess I have to clean up. I mean DAMN.
     
  11. Jim Nelson

    Jim Nelson Active Member

    When I did mine the tensioner was funky and with the help of a friend we were able to adjust it up but it took some working with to get the timing right.I ordered a new tension idler from G&R but haven't gotten around to changing it.I just looked at the manual and they say if you have 50,000Km change the idler,if 80,000 change idler and belt.Mine only had 20,000 since the belt was changed but I don't know if the idler was changed.As far as the dip stick tube I don't know and couldn't find any mention in the manual but you'd sure think there would be some kind of seal.
     
  12. Ran440

    Ran440 Member

    Well even though I don't have parts I decided to remove the alt crank pulley and the other half of the timing belt cover so I could see more. This revealed the fact that the belt was loose because the tensioner was stuck. Still not working properly but I did get it to move and take up the slack. Needs to be replaced.
    It does appear the cam seal is the culprit, not the crank seal. timing belt 2 006.JPG
     
  13. Jim Nelson

    Jim Nelson Active Member

    Now all that's left is the sticker shock when you order parts.Sounds like you have it handled.
     
  14. spaner

    spaner Well-Known Member

    Gonna be hard to tell cuz they leak from behind the plate. Just change them both, yea?
    Tensioner is not free floating. That's why the bolt cover is there. You loosen the bolt, the spring takes the slack up, then tighten the bolt. Every oil change interval? But it will get loose over time. I don't trust it, I just take the cover off and do it that way.

    Don't forget to torque down the pin-bolt with the cover off. It's part of the water pump support and sealing...:)
     
  15. Ran440

    Ran440 Member

    I was wondering why that little plug was there in the cover. Is the tensioner bolt a righty tighty lefty loosy or is it a left hand thread?

    Not sure what the pin-bolt is? Wait. Is that the bolt that the dip stick tube is secured to?

    Already priced out parts so no sticker shock. I'll just be happy to keep my truck on the road. This has become my every day work truck. This thing really earns its keep.

    BTW Thanks for all the replies. Very helpful and as usual I learned a little :)
     
  16. spaner

    spaner Well-Known Member

    All bolts standard.
    Yes, dipstick one.

    AND, yes O-ring, end of dipstick.
    Almost never comes out with the stick, but stays in the block. Counter-sunk area in there to hold the O-ring in the block.
    Make a hooking-tool with a paper clip and pull it out, put it on the stick and insert. BUT, if you had not done this...it's probably been pushed into the hole!!
    Try to fish it out if you can?
    If it was mine, I'd start pulling parts till I had it in my hand. Drop the oil?...then the pan?...maybe, I wouldn't leave it in there if it was me.
     
  17. spaner

    spaner Well-Known Member

    Also, wanted to remind, you have an invite to join dd51t group

    The 95 is very similar to my 93. Block mods, like remote oil filter mounting,

    Top and front look identical though. STD, I believe you get 1.5KW increase at the 95 year..:)
     
  18. Ran440

    Ran440 Member

    Thanks man, I'll check it out.
     
  19. Ran440

    Ran440 Member

    Oil leak part II
    Here is how the story continues.
    Haven't had time to order parts so whenever I return home from a trip I put a clean piece of cardboard under the truck so I can see how bad the leak is getting. Last night the leak appeared to have slowed. Drove the truck early this morning, parked it, put down cardboard. Checked it about an hour later, no oil spots. Huh, must not have drove it enough. Drove it several more times today and same thing. No leak. What the heck. Everything is dry. I even pulled 1/2 the timing belt cover. Dry.
    I guess my truck came with the fancy Japanese self repair option. :)

    Actually what I'm thinking is there must be a pcv to vent the crankcase like our big three trucks. If this gets stuck in the closed position the crankcase will no longer be under a negative pressure and may have caused leakage around seals. PVC unstuck and leak went away.
    It's either that or God answered my prayers.
     
  20. Jim Nelson

    Jim Nelson Active Member

    "If it ain't broke don't' fix it" My favorite truism.Hope your luck holds.
     

Share This Page