got bored with nothing to do the shaft is now soloin it got the piece off a few good wacks and u could see the crack. next was the lead headed hammer to hammer the shaft out i think it took 5 good hits and poop its done. ill post pictures this evening got a few other things i need to do befor i get more free time
i can find a crack case filter thats not biggie the vacc controll was much needed thanks for the number as for the oil filter i cant find it but thats ok i think i will have different threads than you for when i got it i had a small problem the one on it didnt fit right i had to use the other odd on but ill worry about that a little later. as for the air filter i was thinking of using this http://www.knfilters.com/universal/apollo.htm that way i can keep the snorkel i have on it already it will need some work to make it work but im not worried about that. its good up to 350 bhp turbo motors more than enough for the mini i would think
plugs r ordered total of 4 ill have a spare that way. stuck dead in the water for now waiting on the bearings to come in so i can do all the milling in one big step and the cad of the s/c mount plate. the shaft after its all by it self and this one is for spaner what did you do with this piece of metal that sticks on on the s/c shaft did u take it off?
Here's a few things that you could do: 1) the exhaust system. The truck will run and work just fine with only the exhaust modifications completed. Midas did mine in 3hr, I think it was. However, I did pull (split) the cat from the manifold, to get the seal out. This seal was used as the template to cut the new exhaust mounting plate. Plasma table; locally..Then brought that to Midas and also reused the original seal, so be careful. Lots'o horsies here though, which will be increased by a multiple, determined by the boosting. Rip this off...it shows why cleaning out the cat will do FA for you... Make this...and then Midas can do the rest...Depending on how well you know them, and local laws...you may want to show up with nothing from the manifold back, and just tow (your farm truck) to the appointment...
The sc, when you get all the parts together, I will walk you through it, but, yes, the "key" is removed and thrown away. I didn't say anything about your coupler, cu'z it's fine. The important points are, that it was in two pieces (high speed balance) and that it was long enough; and it is. Once you get it milled, the assembly points are to locate the SC shaft "key-way" to one of the coupler gaps (max friction) and to lift the coupler off of the bearing face (heat expansion). I used a 5thou feeler. Also, very important that the clutch shaft base, once cut, is milled to a flat surface, to a high tolerance. This is all to come of course. BUT, another thing that you could do. 2) remove the face plate off the SC, put that aside for later, measure the depth of the holes for the 4 M6 bolts, add 1/4" (plate thickness) then source some SS bolts of that length, with lock washers (they will take-up the plunge difference while under torque) 3) you could also get the main crank pulley modified while you wait for stuff. Although, you'll lose the alt and will have to carry a spare bat until the job is complete... I could give you more if you like. Just how far do you want to work outside-the-box? You'll also have more parts to order, and a few parts to custom make. But, I will help you with that. Too bad nobody else wanted to do this at the same time...it would just be too much of a strain for me to do it a third time.
To give everyone an idea of the difference in power... This one was with 25" studded tires, boost was done, exhaust was done...Interceptor... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gh3OMLsho54 This was after the stock air filter was upgraded to a direct K&N air intake, Crank case breather, Hi flow oil filter, watermeth injector, 14 degrees BTDC...and the rest for the Interceptor 2.0...with the 20" original 145's....first gear is not required... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6DyyhVqs2IU If we keep you on pace, in about 6weeks, we should be looking at modifying your driver's seat... ...
If I had the time I'd be doing this along with Johnny...when I see those vids of the intercepter screaming I get envious...
bearings came in for the clutch on the s/c i ordered two to be on the safe side. i will probably do the exhaust next to open it up while im waiting on the milling to be done and im going to try to sit down and get the s/c mount done this week or weekend so i can just move on past this to the fun stuff getting it all to fit in the really small space sooner than later
hey spaner is this the rght one http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stewart-War...cuit-8-Amp-Each-/390461097496?forcev4exp=true
Simmilar, no switching vac setting reference...and WAY too overpriced... Call Didi-key, that's where I do all of my odds and ends shoping. http://www.digikey.ca/product-detail/en/77343-04.0HG-01/480-2061-ND/1162791
thanks i thought it was kinda high one reason i asked. it has now been ordered. and the speedometer from speed hut should be in tomorrow.
ok so time for a small update on whats being going on with mazie which is very little. Im a volunteer firefighter and with the rain we got this last weekend we had a bad car wreck Saturday afternoon (DOA) took over three hours before we got back so i didnt get much done this weekend. I did get a day picked out to work on the cad on the s/c mount plate should not take him to long. the vacuum switch and the speedometer along with the oil for the supercharger all came in. S/c oil was put in still waiting on a nice day to put the speedo in didnt get to it today. I did order something that should come in useful its a 2 inch hitch crane good for up to 500 pounds. First thing ill be using it for is to load up some fire wood to move it out of the way and too somewhere more open to be split. 34 inch across three cut to 16 inch chunks are more than i want to lift so mazie will be getting some good use this weekend. Between fire wood and setting some t post and fencing for a pony more than likely this weekend. Exhaust will be tore down to get a template made sometime between wood and fencing also this weekend. Sorry i know the work is dragging this week. I will start to pickup the pace from here on out.
man i was soooooo close on just doing it with what i had soooo close lol thank you spaner just what i needed im guessing u used something to make the two hole flush mount for your screws beings one set would be on the front and one set would be on the back of the plate. ive tried to upload the pictures from the cad system they wont upload so ill end up take a picture of them with my phone or camera to upload them that way on here. what cad program are you using?
Hmm, well, I'm just using the picture-generating component of the emachineshop download. That's not a "cad" program, just a designing program. A cad format would load directly into supporting equipment. I just sent my "sketches" to where ever I was having that particular component made or worked on, and they designed the cad for they're equipment. Not every place will do this, but I figured your guy was building the cad at his place of work, where later, the parts would be cut. Also, the pic generated from emachineshop, that I use, come out in a .gif I believe...that won't load-up to the site...TOO BIG. I open that with paint, immediatly save it as .jpeg, then open again and resize it to the screen...10% the kb of what it was. Aaa, the counter-sinks were a separate custom job done by a local shop. They have a specific cutter to do this. Get your bolts FIRST, then bring the plates (done) in with the bolts. They will cut a specific hole to fit a specific bolt, angle and depth. I used 5/16 for the carb cu'z I couldn't secure M8s in that length. Pretty much the same size though, but if I put one of the 5/16s in a hole for the M8...not perfect... Anything else?op:
hows this look spaner and the next question is the length of the m8s that will be needed for the carb mounting and is it fine thread or wide if you remeber if not no big deal thank you
COOL pics man. Looks OK but, devil's in the details. Can't tell any of that from the pics, but I like them. I can give you a few tips though. From your first pic, the main mounting plate. The main bearing mount, at the top for the "drive", this circle was cut to a "high" tolerance, (just the back-side 2mm is critical) as given on the pic information that I provided to you. This is needed for "centering" of all that follows; for an end result, of a "0-backlash". In laymen's terms, when I dropped the plate onto the supercharger-bearing-protrusion, it could "rotate" around the main drive bearing, but could not move left, right, or, up, or down; 0-backlash. The 4 M6's lock the plate down but, regardless to they're position, the plate is centered on the main drive bearing; and therefor, so are the 4 M8's....perfect centering. Later, if this is not what you end-up with, let me know and I will walk you through a "fix"..Via temp of plate, to centering...very important. Also, the plate does not show any "2mm counter sink ridging" for the extension "pipe" centering. I'm sure you've considered this but, it's not in the pic. The second pic looks OK. Again, no details though. The carb mounting bolts... OK, so, let me explain this, like this; All bolt heads sit at the supercharger. So, one mounting plate is bolted to the intake manifold. Those bolt heads sit against the seal of the supercharger. The carb side, the heads sit against the supercharger and the outer ends stick out at the front of the carb. Place a nut there. Backwards, from the original OEM installation. Can't say the exact length but, originally I had measured the right side perfectly, then after the fact (bolts and cutting counter-sink) realized that the left was longer (needed). I solved this with a "deck-nut" from home depot. 5/16 bolt and standard thread....all history... OK, so carb side, I see what you are getting at, like the OEM mounting and "threading" the plate. Possible, but not recommended. You would need to source two different lengths of M8s. One for left and then one for right. Maybe cut the right shorter, from two left side lengths. Again, possible... My recommendation; Get the two plates cut, measure the left side carb mount length. Work out from that point. The post is getting too long, and I don't want to "over load" you. I'll post a pic of what I had, but you could go with an OEM mounting, maybe even with the original carb bolts...possible. Careful, soon even I'll be calling you crazy...
yes i know the counter sink was not in it i could not get it to let it be keeps saying some bs so i just took it off for the picture still trying to figure out y it wont let me put that on there
Ha, ha...because of the bearing hole. You can't make a "trench" in a hole. (empty space) I don't know what program you're using, but I remember how I did that now... Put a "cross wall", across the "trench" just before the bearing hole. (LIKE A HORSE SHOE) I made it about 1thou thick. Then when you go to generate the 3D pic...it's so thin, it becomes invisable in the generated pic... Hope that makes sense....friggen program just about drove me crazy...
Ha, ha, ha..faster than me man... I had to upload 1.76, and then convert the old files...ready to post.. But I won't bother cu'z that's just what I had for you, Nice work man. Again, too bad nobody else wanted to do this, you're doing just fine, and I won't go through it all again...
yea i dont blame you im trying to ask as much as i can to get all the info in one or two spots between urs and mine so they should not need to ask much once its done but idk if that will happen
I don't think so. We're pretty much talking in code now. Cu'z they don't have the physical stuff, or the mental picture of the components. It's just you and me now...like this... BTW, although you've obviously figured it out; that was .bmp to jpeg...and 1.76 .ems... AND, my "sketches" were generated with this exacting format, and then, numbers and notes were added with the "paint" program to finish with a compete "sketch"; this was what was forwarded to the shop, with tolerances for a complete job description. Then the parts were cut, one at a time. Hunting season coming on, give me a day or two if you get stuck... op:
pssssh a day or two you think you can stay off here that long?? op: if so your doing better than me im lucky to make it most of a day with out checking in
Yea, on and off, depends, right... More of my thoughts on the plates. Consider M8 & M6 "through" holes VS "tapping" holes. I believe M8 is 8.60mm VS 6.80mm for 1.25. Pretty sure all M8's I used for everything, including tapping, were 1.25. M6 through, I believe are 6.40mm. All this can be checked though to make sure. Lot's o tables out there for SS 316 or 304. Thought about the carb plate and there really is no reason you could not use the OEM bolts and have one plate with 2 M8's @ 6.80mm and the other plate with 2 M8's @ 8.60mm. Then tap the one for the carb and counter sink just the one plate for the manifold. The OEM bolts would have to be cut, but that's only after your seals are made up and it would be the last operation. You get 1/4" thread engagement x2 to hold a very light carb. I don't see why not. http://www.carbidedepot.com/formulas-tap-metric.htm Bird season opens tomorrow.
