Engine & Solid Axle Swap Build

Aaaa ya it's welded, I have done a few axle's and have learned a lot. I don't have a lot of options for the trans axle diff lock, [ locker or spool ] but have learned to place 2 peaces of steel between the side gear's and weld to them together. no welding to the spider's or the case, keeping every thing as close to the same as possible. I know it's not balanced but it's as close as I can get. If it fail's over time it's not a big deal these transaxles are all over the wrecking yard's and are cheep. A close watch on the oil should head off down time on the trail. So far no problems, close to 2000 miles on it so far, and ya the rear axle diff is welded too.

 

Greg, I have to agree these truck's are a blast to drive. The power is fun to have, just have to warn any passenger's to lean forward, when it shifts it will set you back in the seat and bounce your head on the back of the cab. LOL It is also fun to have a passenger with ya and hit the rear steer to the left, there first reaction is to lean over on the driver. Girls seem to scream at the same time. I think our biggest advantage other than power is how much better the truck is balanced front to rear. I can unlock the front hubs, [ rear two wheel drive ] and go any where that the truck used to have to be in 4 wheel drive. In 4 wheel drive the dam thing honestly scares me, it feels like it will go over backwards !!! I have to get a good roll bar built. It is unreal how much better it does. And not having enough power is not ever a thought, it has more than it will ever need! I would like to see some pix of your roll bar, did you tie it into the frame or into the bed mount's? I love your Higet, best looking front bumper I have seen! Your truck look's wicked cool in your videos !! SPANER !!! week two / story # two !!!!! A new story thread ???

 

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Thanks guys, and Digger, my video's will reach a peak, in the next few months. I have hundreds of hours of video, that have not been filed and/or posted. I haven't even looked at some of it. If you like it so much, post a comment (youtube), that's modevation for me to keep it up, and Greg too, I think (I know I wanna see more of his truck-and your's too).

Anyway, back to the lockers. I hope that you guys took some pictures. A lunchbox or H-bar lincoln locker? Can't quite see what you guys have settled on based on your text descripts. You talkin' about this:



Like a full bar weld? I get the impresion that you are talkin about an H-bar "stand-alone" lock. Like, remove it, and it's back to stock. You're starting to convince me that this is what I need. Cuz, like the old-man says, I tend to go over-board with my mods, and build a system that works fine, but is way more than is needed. Being able to "isolate" the front diff, through "axle-lock" and "4WD-engagement", I think that maybe I'm going too far with the mechanical modification. I think that maybe a simpler approach like an H-Bar-Lincoln-locker may work just fine. Except, that I'm worried about the "alignment" of both axles, for "re-alignment" and re-engagement.
Take into account that I'm not a "Dana 60" guy. I know what it is to "Pattern" a set of gears, but I'm more of a "plastigage" kind of guy.
I had one of my buds, way back when, do a full top mod on a 318, and had a bunch of probs, and I asked what his plasti-gage readings were, and he said, "what's plasti-gauge?", I Sh!t you not...Work within you're knowledge range, or...listen, learn, and re-confirm.


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You know what, that is so funny, I was actually reading that thread, where you got that, not five minutes ago.

Page three, he gives it away, and admits to the fact that he has about 60% of the guys believing he is one-screewed-up-mofo....

Common Greg, you can do better than that. Let's see some of your "super-man" mechanical modification techniques.

EDIT: You caught up to me, on the post timming.
Welding to the carrier, I have seen. The H-Bar, I was talking about, is basicatlly, a spanner-in the-works, prevents the free-wheeling of the carrier within the diff, and can be removed, in the future, without any negative effects upon the system.

Can't find any pics though. Let's see what Digger has to say about it.

The stories, I'm going to have to be very carful...designated threads only...


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Spaner, ya just like your pix, I have had good luck just welding the peace of steel to the side gears, not the spider gears or the case. but ya greg the pin still takes all the force and can brake. I have welded to the case before but thought it might warp the carrier and damage the bearing's. As far as the front axle diff I don't think I would weld it, In two wheel drive you will have one wheel turning the diff and the drive line, the axle lock will only release one side to freewheel. This will kill gas mileage and may even make the truck pull to one side. We just don't have any way that I have found to lock the front diff on these little truck's. If they had locking hub's that would help. Think on it more spaner , I have an E locker in my jeep and when it is locked the thing doe's not like to turn, that would not be cool on a truck that most of the weight is on the front axle and no power steering. I still remember that pix on pirate 4x4.[ welded ring gear ] LOL. I was lucky, the Neon trans axle is cake to tare down, remove diff cover, pull drive axle's out, 6 bolt's on each side of case, pry off bearing race housing's, diff falls out!! Greg' when you cut the peace's of steel to fit between the side gear's get it tight against the gear's, I had a rear diff that I didn't get them tight and it did not want to let the axle slide in !! Also before you weld insert the drive axle's, make sure they do not hit the steel as they pass thew the side gear's, I have had that happen too!

 

All For Naught...

Back to the drawing board...


Well, I can tell you that I have just had a 48hr peyote induced mechanical study session, and it is all for naught.

Tracked down the proper scematic on the net, I guess that there are 4 different types of front diffs on the Suzuki, and the one that I have has the 6-gear set-up, and does not disengage either axle, with the "axle-lock", and/or 4WD engagement system. 4WD isolates the drive, and the axle-lock isolates the ring and pinion, but all 6-gears are still engaged at all times within the "Free Wheel Lock Hub". This is the component that I thought would benifit from a "band on carrier" Greg. Not too big to admit when I'm wrong. Won't do nothing for us.

I did take the time to spec up an H-BAR for you though. Honestly don't remember if I read about this somewhere, or if I came up with it on my own.
If you have two spiders only; You cut your drive gears and insert the H-BAR along with the modified drive gears. Full spider gear tooth engagement with full locking action against the main spider gear mounting pin. No welding required. Change back, remove and replace main drive gears with spare set. Can't use it on a 6-gear setup like mine though, and don't want to "LOCK" the system, even if I could.

But, this H-BAR, might help you out on the trans axle:





And, when you get a chance, try to stick this into your brain,
I think that I'm back to the TCS...cuz there's no gizmo that could be inserted to isolate one drive wheel from the other.





The only thing that I can see here, is to replace the main drive gear (12) spacers, with custom friction rings...which is not going to do what I want, anyway
Terrible design, you'd think that if they were going to go through the trouble of designing a "sliding-fork", they'd use it to engage the side gear, not the carrier hub.:frustration:


Ho, yea, dyno...not within 500miles...other wise I would.. It's 100hp for sure...I'd like to get paper on it though.


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I had no idea they were built like that, I am going to look at my old diff and think on that one. These truck's are one of a kind. So the H bar set's over the trimmed side gear's ? I have never seen that one. Next time I lock a dff I think I will try that.

 

I wish the Carry bed's bolted in like that! There isn't any thing vary strong holding it to the frame. What are you planing for your transaxle diff? You and Spaner have some good idea's, But welding solid is the best I think for a trans axle. You know it will stay together. Have you tried using your stock radiator? I was worried that the stock one would not cool the bigger engine, but I have not had any problems at all. I used the Carry temp sending unit and the gauge stays the same as when the stock 3 cyl was in there, even on long steep grades at 90 plus air temp. I think the long rad hose's help cool it too.

 

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Ideas are a dime a dozen Digger. Think'in up sh!t, is just for fun.op:

Greg, I've seen the "weld-filled-gears"; but, only Two-Toothed, engagement-drive(outer-inner);---DANGEROUS.
Both you guys, do some nice work, and a few others on this site as well, remember the "Hunti-Bar"...nice..It's all just for fun.

I'll tell you where I am with this now. Mechanical (Lockable) front Diff-Lock is out for me, could be done (using existing "axle-lock" fork and side gear), but it's WAYY out there, in cost and fab time. Just not realistic.

I looked at an "electric" TCS (not electronic)(kept me up all night), figured it all out, using a "flip-flop" control circuit with the brake light sensor, and existing rear diff-lock system. Saftey control, system gets it's PWR (ON-OFF Selection--and energized indication) from the rear Diff-Lock system, SO, disengages through 39kph, regardless of "ON" selection.

Using 3 proven "electric line-locks" ($35-each) and a "flip-flop" circuit. Press brake with the left foot, system locks rear brakes OPEN, locks left front OPEN, allows pressure to right front brake. Release brake, circuit collapses (flip-flop), pressure now goes to front left only. In "real time".
So, as fast as you can "pump the brake pedal"; (FRONT)-Left-Right-Left...Tourque.
Will work great for climbing thoses big sand hills, but you have to pump the brake pedal with your left foot, and you have NO standard brakes while the system is energized. Mechanical e-brake, on the rears only; if you get into trouble.

So, my choice is to have electric TCS on the pedal, with rear e-brake. OR,
Have full normal brakes, with mechanical TCS, in the fronts, with some mechanical e-brake front calipers, on a "rocking control lever", like I originally came up with. I've read about some competition guys going with "dual rear calipers" and hydraulic hand brakes, for competition drift racing. Informative for fab information, but I think that I've decided to go with my original idea, and replace the original front calipers, with some OEM's incorporating a mechanical e-brake. Also, I think that a mechanical levered control stick, will give some "feed-back", into the lever, and actually "let you FEEL" which wheel is spinning, and needing some extra "brake-time", before release.

Working on it.

That H-BAR would work out just fine in the trans axle, and be a little bit "beafier" in a 4-gear set-up. Mike-it-up, and I think that you will find that the sides are way thicker (within the carrier), compared to gear-filled-welds, and, be more than you need for strength, especially if you go with some 316 stainless steel, in a 3D (blocked) milling setup.

As always, just my opinion.


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According to me ,The MR2 MR2 Turbo and have no basis, and the engine mounts are rubber isolators incorporated. There are four brackets. The left and right side supports are mainly to support the weight of the engine and locate the motor side, and not allow the engine to move laterally. This means it keeps the engine running when the car goes around corners. The left side assembly is attached to the top of the gearbox. The mounting of the motor is attached to the right, above the main crankshaft pulley.

 

sounds like a lot of fun and work. Good luck with the project. I currently have swapped out my 550 cc engine for a 1.6 l tracker engine and installed the drive train as well. No longer a on road unit lol

 

prove it! lets see some pics!

 

Damn that's some nasty looking trails there...

 

Could life get any better. Great way to break in the new year, I'm jealous.
I'd be your camera man anyday..

Video can never be as good as the real thing. I know that I'm always disaponted in mine. It's just not even close to the real thing. But for the guys that were not there, it's like CANDY..op:

Hurry up already..

 

Awesome!

I made a camera case for my truck out of a PVC pipe but if you don't already have an HD camera the GOPRO's are totally awesome.

 

YA HOOOO Thats the stuff I LOVE!!! I wish I was with ya!! It would be sooomuch fun to be with all the buggies and show them the mighty mini can do it!!! So how did it do? Some of the rock's looked big for 27's. but a little wheel base truck look's to have some room to pick lines. Love to hear all ya did to your truck. op:

 

Greg, I was wandering how your truck did with the trans diff locked, and if it made the axle lockers noticeable. I found a lockright locker for the front of mine and wanted your thoughts on the rear axle. The way these lockers work I was thinking of just welding the rear diff , { getting a new case for the taller gears }. It only sees dirt roads. I am having a hard time finding the 2.72 gears, you would think they would be a dime a dozen, not much listed on the net.:frustration: I have been thinking on building tracks out of snowmobile tracks, kinda like the old Una Tracks. The Mattracks I have did not perform like I wanted and now that the truck is 2,000 lbs I know it won't float In the deep snow. Looked at your build thread the other day, that's a vary nice job you have done !!!. op:

 

Guys, just from my own R&D, I was looking at the Spartan lunchbox locker. It's not for me, but looks like the perfect unit for something under 2500LBs; for non-import components.

And Greg, I've been looking at one of these "glasses" type video solidstate cameras. Might be something that you can "set, and forget". A little pricey, but not too bad for a high quatity unit.

 

Greg; Ya, kinda what I thought, with torque on the pinion the axles lock, so I was not sure I wanted to spend the cash for a locker. I did find some 2.73's and have them on the way. That is, as far as I know the tallest gears for the CJ axles. Going from 4.27 to 2.73 gears, @ 2500 RPM [ 4.27 =17.48 MPH ] to [ 2.73 = 27.34 MPH ]. The locker for the front, two carrier's, and two sets of gears cost $ 600.00, Plus new bearings, oil, shims and seals, that' s allot for 10 MPH :frustration: As far as the rear steer it seems to be ok, the rear tires are always skiding in a turn. I unlock one front hub when i don't need 4 wheel drive but I think with the front locker I will have to unlock both hubs. It was kinda nice to open the door and reach down to unlock the front axle. o well. I have been thinking of making some kind of gauge to show when rear wheels are centered. Do you have any thoughts ? And yes, I too know the feeling of seeing glass, oil, and paint on rocks and ledges when I go to Moab's trails. It makes ya think of more than just getting over the ledge!!! OOOya the rush of trying to get up something your not sure the truck can do and having jeeps and buggies with ya. Then the feeling ya get when ya made it up. We would love to hear more on the trip to the park, I just LOVE a good story!, And even the crappy cell pix is cool too! op: Joe

 

Gas tank sending unit and matching gauge, half tank neutral position. Make up a custom back plate for the gauge on a jet printer.

That's what I'd do anyway..

 

There ya go !! I didn't think of something like that. I was going to use a solid cable and run it into the cab to some sort of hand made gauge. Your idea would be better. I would have to make something to keep the mud out of the contact's. I wanted to put some gauges for the trans temp and hyd temp. A steering gauge will fit right in!! Thank's Spaner !!