I have a Cushman white truck it will run 18mph then the govner comes in wheres it at & how do you go around it ? I think it is a speed govner not rpm And also the shifter looks like there is 2 more gears like 2 of the 5 are blocked
it is probably an rpm limiter and the gears are plated so you cant shift into them. try looking around under the shifter column to see if there is a restriction plate. also try searching the forum for restriction plates etc.
try doing a search for the daihatsu with teh rev limiter in it. i'm not sure if it's the same or not, but one fix is shifting it into high range inside the trans, and another is jumping the rev limiter wires. again, this is on the daihatsu but i believe there are similarities between the white truck and the american market daihatsus.
I drove a suzuki years ago that a friend had in California it had a metal box u nder the shifter that blocked 3rd and 4th gears...10 minutes and it was removed..don't know if this is the same set-up
If it is speed controlled and not RPM based, there should be a sensor, likely on the transmission. Unplugging this sensor may allow you to run unrestricted. Of course if your speedometer is electronically controlled, this will disable your speedo. Some of the Japanese vehicles have a sensor in the speedometer itself. In reality, it shouldnt be too hard to disable electrically. The transmission may be another story. Yes, the Japanese trucks have a plate under the shifter that is easy to remove. But that is an add-on before export. Your cushman is likely governed right from the factory. There may be parts missing, shafts locked, or who knows otherwise possibly right inside the transmission.
rev/speed limiter I recently purchased a 1990 Cushman white truck. The easiest way I found to eliminate the rev/speed limiter was to get rid of the Cushman module (located next to the coolant res.) and the stock coil. Step 1: Purchase a coil/igniter for a '84-'85 Toyota 4 cyl. non EFI truck. I suggest finding one from a salvage yard as a new one will be kinda pricey. Step 2: Mount it SOLIDLY to the chassis near the distributor. Step 3: Wire it up. There are two connectors on the coil/igniter. Each of them have two wires in them. One connector goes to the distributor and the other connector powers it. One connector will have a pink wire in it. run it to a switched positive source. You will need to find a terminal in the fuse block that is "hot" when the key is on, as well as when the engine is cranking. easy to find with a test light. Leave the other wire in this connector alone. The other connector has two wires that need to be connected to the two wire connector coming from the distributor. not sure on the colors, but if your truck doesn't start, or spits and sputters, switch them around. Step 4: Connect the coil wire on the distributor to the Toyota coil. Step 5: remove the fuse marked "GOV" in the fuse block. This will disable the annoying light in the gauge cluster. Step 6: ENJOY! Engine should rev as high as you want through all the gears. This only took me about 45 min. to do and has worked flawlessly. Now I am working on figuring out 4th and 5th gear. Seems to be inside the transmission.
senor roho, Welcome aboard (with a great informative write-up), I have a Cushman project van. I have not spent much time with it (play with my Mits truck too much). As for as the transmission you prob have internal blocks to your 4/5 gears. Dan has resolved the problem in two different blocking scenarios in the LHD Mits trannys. You can see a pictorial of the breakdown in the photo gallery. Just go to personal galleries and look under "D" and he has two different sets of pix that describes the "fix". But, yeah the Cushmans are 5-spd with 4/5 blocked. The shifter knob on mine actually has the 4 and 5 stamped out, but you can see where they are...........later, slim
senor roho- I am in the middle of the procedure you suggest to replace the coil/igniter on my cushman. I had bought a new aftermarket coil for an '84/'85 non-EFI toyota 4 cylinder. This coil has 2 spade terminals on it. So, in fact, I do not have the 4 wires that you suggest in step 3. Got any thoughts? I'm stumped on this right now. Appreciate any help you can give me. Thanks. OZ
4 and 5th gears The shift shafts inside the transmission were lengthened at the factory to prevent access to fourth and fifth. Take the transmission apart and have the shafts shortened about 1/2 and inch. It cost me 25 at the local machine shop and a weekend to get them working properly. Works just fine now in fourth and fifth. With the governor gone mine will max out at about 70 mph. Still having carb issues with mine any one know where to get carb parts for these things, a rebuild kit or new replacement? I have the 33DH VS -150.:frustration:
little help, please Has anybody else got this to work? The igniter I found for the Toy has 4 connectors and 2 wires each. I don't want to buy a $314 igniter and a $30 coil and not have it work out. The van sits right now with no spark at all, with the foctory parts. I got a hold of Cushman and they have droped the white truck/van line and said parts are hard to find.
new hope Found the igniter that looks right. Listed as a 1984 Toy, SR5 MFI. Still pricey $175+30 for coil. But looks right so we'll see.
It works, it works!!!!! 30 mins after the parts got to the shop it was running. The gov/rev limiter is gone. Life is good. The parts came from Car Quest, igniter module #ECC 55-1806 and the coil # is ECC 52-1919. Total was $216.84 but with no factory parts, it works. Wires up easy. White wire on igniter goes to the green wire on the dist/hall switch, Black igniter wire goes to the red dist/hall switch. Power up the red wire on the coil and it's done. There is a yellow wire in the connecter with the red just leave it alone. Now if the boss will let me open the trans for 4-5 gear.
I need pictures. Is the ignitor and coil different? The coil is to the rear of the coolant resivor accessed through the bed. Ignitor is where? Thanks, Eric
needed parts igniter is inside the factory dist, just leave it alone.Go to Rockauto.com they have a good pic of the igniter. It fits a Toyota 1984 SR5 truck. just look up this part # 7067. Shows they have 2 left and it's cheaper. buy the coil and igniter. I can't post pics at work and that is where the van is. Hope this helps.
still no worky I am stumped. Is my igniter bad? I wired it up. White igniter wire ti green distributor wire. Black to red. Then red wire from igniter to positive on coil. Took factory rev A modal out. Purple wire from the bundle goes to the fuse box and marked gov. I sliced this wire and ran a new wire to positive on coil. This did not work. Coil is a molar coil. I then ran a wire from negative to a ground screw on the frame. What did I miss. The truck runs great w other rev A mod and molar coil, just 22the mph. I get 12 volts out if the igniter. I am going crazy. Help...... Thx Eric
I hate governer I to bought one of the cushmans and cannot stand the governer system. I purchased the igniter and coil off of ebay motors today, so hopefully by end of week i will be governer free.
Great info I'm glad to have found this forum and the great information that is posted on it. Has anybody been able to figure out the 4th and 5th gear unlock. I have the cushman 4g82, 1065cc. Also is there any place that makes a aluminum bed for these trucks?
Governer no more Got my new ignitor and coil in from ebay, $70.00 brand new for both. Pulled governer per jethro99 instructions and it runs like a champ. Now I need to get 4th and 5th gears unlocked. Only problem I have is if you turn the key all the way back to the acc. spot the truck will keep running, no big issue just have to stop in the off position. Thanks for who ever figured out the 84 toyota firing system and jethro99 for posting instructions of how to wire it up.
I know this is an older post and I have seen lots of info on this subject but i'd like to verify what model I have and whats the fix for the trans 4th and 5th liberation. I have a 98 Cushman white truck. I have 2 of them, 1 p/u and 1 van. The governor problem is resolved now its unlocking 4th and 5th gear that I face. If the fix is shortening the shafts, How are they accessed? Does the tranny have to come out of the truck? Do you removed the shift linkage and cover? Pictures of what needs to be done would be great. I saw the post on looking at Dan's pictures but who is Dan and how do I find his pictures. Any help would be appreciated. I'm don't know who built this truck (Mits or Daihatsu or Sub) How do I tell? They all look alike to me. I've looked for some evidence on parts but have found nothing to indicate. Detail on the procedures would be great.
I looked at the igniter for an 84 Toy SR5 on ebay and it looks different than the one I took out of my white truck. Does it still bolt up? The one on Rockauto.com looks different too. Did you have this difference? Went to Napa, nothing in there book looks the same. An 84 Toy is very different. Does is somehow still bolt up?
You will have to wire it in, there is no plug and play to it. Click on my user name and you will see all the treads I have posted, in them is the info on how to wire it in. Good luck.
It isn't about plug and play wiring, the part is configured differently. The bolt pattern is different too. I must be missing something, what is it? Thanks
What he means by plug and play is that the part that your putting in your truck does not plug into the existing wiring plugs, nor will it screw to the existing screw holes. It is made for a different application but it will make your truck run without a governor. If you don't have a mechanical inclination then this could be frustrating.
All of the instructions are in "The final governor tread" listed in the sub-forums under References. It's all there, it's not all that hard to wire it in. I tossed the old ign module and coil and mounted the new one in it's place. You will have to drill some holes and cut some wires but it's not that hard of a fix.
Thanks. I thought I've read every thread about this and it now helps to hear the part about tapping new mounting screws holes. Thought I was looking at the wrong Toyota part. Perhaps a van is different, my truck access is so poor that it seems ya have to pull the distributor out (after setting to no. 1 firing position) to accurately position the new magnetic pickup for bolt-up.
RockAuto doesn't list a 7067 part and the CarQuest number doesn't work either. Perhaps they did last year, but I've looked and looked and get nothing. RockAuto DOES show a Part # LX759 that seems to be for the right Toy 85 sr5 mfi, but it only has 2 wires and sounds nothing like what you have described to bigtoejones with 2 green connectors etc. Maybe this has much to do with the misunderstanding of how it bolts up; or I just have poor mechanical inclination and it's frustrating me (thanks Rwf642[by the way, nice transmission question]).
