I have a Suzuki Carry truck. The other day, it would not start. I pulled The battery and took to the battery shop. Battery was weak, but took a charge. The battery shop told me that I either my alternator is not charging or I have some sort od short. Hooked up the battery, started the truck. Tested the alternator and it was charging 14 volts. Then I started to test the starter wire and the igition wire with type negative off the battery. The starter wire had nlo current, but the ignition wire had about 10.5 volts? I pull the fuse, checked the wire, pull the column cover and looked everything over. All looks fine, pull the fuse, pulled the connectors all good. Any ideas? Should have have about 10.5 volts coming through the igniton wire when it is connected to the positive and the negitive is pulled off the battery? Let me know....
Thanks for the input. I'll have to power spray it down. We have had snow then rain, then mud, then smow again and the underside of the truck is a mess. It does not help with bigger tires that sling the muck all over. Once it is washed down, any help with where to find these grounding straps would be appreciated...
These are normally braided ground straps because of all the movement between engine and the rest of the vehicle. I replaced the one going to the starter and the one that goes from the frame to exhaust manifold. You might need to run wire brush where these attach. Without good grounds you get all sorts of electrical problems like wipers will have no power, fuel and temperature gauges are erratic,dash light dim and blink. Ignition not so good, improper charging, radio noise so on and so on. Any after market ground strap will do. I bought mine at UAP Napa pack of 3 for 9$ different lenghts.
I smuthered the area with dielectric grease and changed all the nuts on grounding straps to stainless steel cap nuts.
I know this is an old post but having same problem, was it your grounding that was causing low to no charge?
Troy, I also realize this is an old post. I am also interested in knowing their outcome! I myself think that adding additional grounding to these mini trucks are also a good idea! Some time back in a heavy equipment shop, we did a test with using, too much die-electric grease, intentionally as a test! We found out that there is no such thing as using too much die-electric grease on connections, and or ground straps!!! I added extra braided ground straps to my mini! Over kill? Maybe. I really don't like doing things twice! Again, what does it hurt to have extra grounding? Good Luck, I hope they respond! Limestone
So for the electrical snapping noise, please keep in mind I'm totally new to working on vehicles lol, but a mechanic at Canadian tire told me that noise is good. It's coming from my top end, left side where a "valve hose" is located. He said that snapping noise is "normal" I placed my hand on the valve hose and I felt it was coming from the hose so I'm going with him for now lol unless you know more, please tell me because, no disrespect meant, but that mechanic seemed like he really had no clue and was just trying to push items on me. Shoot, he changed me $50 and told me nothing ffs! The sad thing is I ended up listening to him and bought a brand new battery for $150. I took my truck out last night to stress test the charging system and 2 hours with my heat and headlights on, my battery was low. It will still start my truck so not completely dead, but a lot lower than should be so today, before i take the alternator out, I'm cleaning up all my grounds and adding an extra from my battery to my alternator top bolt mount in hopes that it helps
Troy, Noises, and sounds can get distorted. I am sure that others like myself did consider what he told you is possible. Ticking, and knocking, etc. noises are all to be considered. Remember, an old saying, caution on the side of error! It is very possible, valves, lifters, they all make diff. sounds, noises, etc. Learning your vehicle and the sounds that it makes is always good. Keeping your fluids up to snuff, and maintenance as required, naturally is important! Remember, we are not physically there, and although we can give our opinion, It's not always Gospel! A second opinion to play it safe, from a competent, qualified mechanic,(hard to find), that might understand these mini trucks, wouldn't be a bad idea! Again, from a distant, it seems like excessive battery drain to me! Good Luck! Limestone
Another thing, I noticed that as soon as my new battery was in my truck, i turned my headlights on while out for a drive and my headlights were the dimmest on the road. I would have thought, even with a bad alternator, the headlights should be bright with a brand new battery. I don't have a multimeter, all I have for now is an old battery tester but with my truck running and my tester hooked up I can turn my heat on and no drop in voltage but as soon as I turn my headlights on, my meter drops. With that information, low headlight beam, battery drains only when headlights are on, does this sound like there may be more going on than a bad alternator? Your opinion please, you've been a lot of help
Troy, Great work! Now you know that something is going on in your light system. Just headlights? Or running lights too? Brake lights? By isolating each, and testing like you are, you will find it! Limestone
I'm not 100 percent yet, I'm on my way out now to do a lil work. I'll have it narrowed down hopefully today but for rite now, I know just my headlights. I can drive all day, during the day with heater on and nothing but as soon as I need my headlights, I start losing power. Thanks, I'll keep you posted
Hey limestone, maybe you can help me. I checked my fuses in my relay fuse box and there is one fuse that is marked 70a. It's bolted in on both sides sobin order to remove it, you need to unbolt it. It's not shot but it's awfully burnt on one side and when I check it for current it only reading in the spots that aren't burnt. If I test the spots that are burnt, it reads no current. Could that burnt 70a fuse be giving my charging system a low charge?
Troy, That can't be good. Again, "caution on the side of error". If it were me, I would definitely would replace it, and I myself would buy two, in case the second one is needed. I found that having extra fuses never seem to go to waste! Kinda got me wondering why half of that fuse is blown, and not the other side. Either way, there's a problem , and that's as good a place to start as any. It's possible that if the whole fuse had blown, you probably, would be experiencing other electrical issues. So here's my thought's. that fuse is showing a burnt on one side of it. A fuse is designed to work or fail,(not work), simply put. But, sometimes electrical, does some weird stuff! Especially, automotive electrical, mainly because there are a lot of variables, with different voltage and relays, etc.... you get my point! Start with replacing that fuse, nothing to lose, and hopefully you'll get lucky and that's it. Pay close attention, after the fuse change, hopefully nothing else goes wrong. The fuse is there to protect the electrical system or circuit, and or circuits. You may have something more going on there electrically, like a wire shorting out, rubbing some where. Just a reminder, remove the ground side of the battery, to play it safe! Keep us posted. Good Luck. Limestone
