I've ordered a tune up kit, water pump and timing belt for my 92 Carry with 68k Kilometers on it. I know the belt has not been changed and I want to change it so I know exactly when it was changed. I figure while I'm in there I'll go ahead and put in a new water pump as you have to remove the belt to get to the pump. Then I'll put in the new cap, rotor, wires and plugs and tune it up proper. I would be willing to take pictures as I go along and post to the gallery if anyone is interested. Let me know and I'll be glad to do it. I got my shop manual in hand and should be getting my parts the end of the week or early next week so it will be a couple of weeks till I actualy tackle it.
Here's what I ordered, Timing belt set - includes idler/tension pulley Water pump Tune up kit - plugs, cap, rotor and new wires Alt belt $435 w/shipping. They quoted me 50 on the shipping and if it's less they'll refund. It all being shipped from Japan.
I'll let you all know when I get the parts in and when I install I'll take pics of the process. John, The site rules say not to post links to vendors that are not site supporters so I won't. I'm sending you a pm with the info. I've looked around at prices and they have some good ones compared to others. I've also enchouraged them to sponsor this site.
I got home from the farm on Sunday and the parts I ordered arrived. It took 10 days to get all the parts from Japan. The timing belt came with a new idler/tension pulley and also in the box where two oil seals which I believe are for the crank and the cam shaft. That was a nice touch so I can do the job right since I'm in there. I probably won't be able to work on the truck for a couple of weeks as I have finish a roof at the farm and the Okie winds just aren't cooperating. I'll post pics as I go along.
Not at the farm today. The farm is a weekend thing for now and we are working to go full time within the next 5 years. I'm at my regular job and even if I wasn't it's to darn windy out there today. I'm hoping Sat to get it finished up. I've recruited two of my friends to help me out. Here's a pic of the parts I recieved: If I get the roof done on Sat I may tackle putting them in on Sunday. If I don't then it will be three weeks till I do as I have to go to Belgium on the 13th to visit a customer. Beer capital of the world When I first looked at the timing belt I thought the sent me the wrong one, as I glanced at the name on the box and read Mitsubishi when it's actually Mitsuboshi. My daughter has been studying Japanese in college and just got back from doing a semester in Japan. She straightened dad out....
Big Daddy, Sent you a PM with the info. I did recieve an email from them and they said they are going to become a sponsor of this site.
Just got back from the farm. I spent the most part of Sat working on the truck. Changed out the fluids in the rear diff, and trans. Was going to do the front but it takes a hex head socket to open up and I didn't have any at the farm. After that I tackled the timing belt, waterpump and seals on the crank and cam shaft. After that was all back together and running fine I hit the sparkplugs, wires, distributer cap and rotor and set the timing. I was hunting for the timing marks on the front pully and none there. Come to find out they are on the flywheel. I was wondering how I was going to hold the timing light and turn the distributor at the same time if it was on the front of the motor. The motor has a tang on it that hangs over the pulley like you would use to set the timing. the hole you look into for the flywheel is marked and was a breeze to set corretly. Man does she run sweet now. Oh, The tranmission was about a liter low on fluid. I didn't see any leaking seals and I put the required amount back in. Dip stick was leaking from where it pushes into the block. The "O" ring was worn out. Good thing I had the ol Harbor Frieght 0-ring set on hand. Not exact fit but I used two that where close. I'll see if it stops the leak. I have a bunch of pics I have to go through and hope to post them tomorrow. It was nice working of a vehicle where you could just lean over and access everything you needed to get too. Reminds me of my old 69 Rambler American.
Ok, here's the first set pics on my lube, belt/waterpump change and tune up. The lube part is pretty straight forward and for those that may have never done I hope this helps you out. The rear diff. Use a 3/8" socket wrench the take the plugs out and refilled till the oil comes out the top hole. The rear was full. Here's the tranny. Upper right is the fill plug and my finger pointing at the bottom left is the drain. Now the tranny was low on fluid. I stuck my little finger in the fill hole and just barely touched the fluid. The fluid that did drain out looked good and clean. The next two pics are the magnetic drain plug: first as it came out and after I cleaned it.
Fluid change cont.... This pic is the front diff. I didn't change it on Sat because I didn't take my hex head sockets with me. Looks to be a 10mm. When i return from Belgium I'll change it. The next set I'll post will be changing out the belt and water pump. Hope to get those up today. Sorry to put this into two posts but this site limits you to four pics in a post so for the waterpump, belt and tune up posts there will be a few of them to get the pics in.
OK, Now it's time to get working on the motor. I have to say that the Carry is easy to access. Big bed access panel Access panel removed and "THE BOOK" Now I really like that the center brace is also removable: Seats removed to get to the front of the motor
A bit of oil seapage. This turned out to be coming from the dipstick tube where it enters the block. The O ring was shot Removed the alternator belt. You would think that Tang hanging over the pulley would be for timing the engine. It's not. The timing marks are on the flywheel and you'll pics of it when I get to posting the tune up. Plenty of room for an impact gun to break the crank shaft pulley nut loose. Once I removed the pulley I removed the front timing belt cover
There's the belt. The bottom pulley is the crank, the smooth one is the tensioner pulley, next is the water pump pulley and the farthest one is the camshaft. The book tells you to set the motor to Top Dead Center which I did but if you don't the timing marks are real easy to see and set. To take the belt off I just took the bolt out of the tensioner pulley and pulled it out. There is a small spring that you can unhook with needle nose pliers. Once removed the belt comes right off. Here's a pic of where the oil was coming from. The base of the dipstick tube just fell out. The O-ring is worn out. Having a HF O-ring handy assortment pack on hand comes in nicely in these situations. I took the old timing belt and cut it to fit the camshaft pulley so I wouldn't hurt it with the chain wrench. The impact wouldn't fit here. Now remove this cover:
Back cover is removed: Since the motor was a bit oily I decided to break out the power washer and clean it a bit: And the water pump removed:
Here's a pic of the new main seal. The cam shaft seal is exactly the same seal. I just used a small screw driver to pry the old one's out. Be careful not to scratch the surface of the shaft. Tapped new seals in with a small hammer. Installed new water pump and replaced the back cover. Put the new tensioner pulley on but did't put the spring on yet. Set the crank to TDC and the cam to the timing marks on the cam pully and back cover. Ran the belt so that there was no slack between the cam and the crank then ran it around the tensioner and waterpump. I then hooked the spring back up to the tensioner. There's an access hole on the front of the timing cover that lines up with the tensioner bolt. After the motor is run a bit pop the little cover off and loosen the bolt and retighten. The tensioner doesn't automatically take up the slack of the belt as it stretchs. Put the covers back on, crank pulley and new alt belt. Topped up the collant and started it right up.
Ok, last sets of pics. This is the tune up. All the parts were old except the plugs which looked brand new so I left them in and kept the new new ones for spares. There was one plug wire rubbing on the access panel support: The distrubutor cap had cracks from all 3 of the posts: Timing it was straight forward. Here's the hole on the trans with the timing marks:
New cap and wires on, timing set and running fantastic. I like the blue wires I hope all these pics weren't over the top. I hope this helps anyone that want to tackle these jobs. I have a very enjoyable day doing it and it nice to work on a vehicle where your not busting your knuckles trying to get to things. If anyone has any questions please ask.
Nice photo set Greg. Seems like the engineers do a way better job on designing the "kei" class of vehicles for the JDM market then what we get for the NA market. I have been impressed on how easy my Sambar is to work on as well.
Now that they have joined the board I can say that I got my parts from: Isela Barnett Parts Manager Mini Truck Supply http://www.minitrucksupply.com (972) 359-8137 iselab@MiniTruckSupply.com Give them a shout and they can hook you up. They did an excellent job for me.
Greg, Thanks for the recognition! The pictorial you provided on your repairs and procedures was very well documented. You get our vote for contributor of the month for sure!! Thanks again! Mini Truck Supply