1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

Suzuki Carry on Tracks

Discussion in 'Suzuki Carry' started by 13-ball, Dec 28, 2021.

  1. 13-ball

    13-ball Member

    Just purchased a Carry that's going on tracks. We have a cabin in Colorado where we need to snowmobile in during the winter.

    I've been working on the conversion a while - waiting on parts to complete it. Figure I'll post some pics of how I did the brackets and stuff.

    Here's how it looked when it arrived.

    20211217_091153.jpg 20211217_103837.jpg 20211217_103807.jpg
     
    CVP33 likes this.
  2. Acerguy

    Acerguy Moderator Staff Member

    Welcome! I look forward to see the progress.
     
  3. 13-ball

    13-ball Member

    I got the tracks used off craigslist. They were on a Polaris RZR. Found out after.... Polaris uses a weird 4x4 system - the front and rear axle ratios are somehow different. Camso supplies RZR tracks with a different size drive sprocket front to back. I had to order smaller sprockets for the front tracks to make the ratios equal. I used 17T sprockets.

    20211217_181608.jpg 20211217_181557.jpg
     
    Last edited: Dec 29, 2021
  4. 13-ball

    13-ball Member

    I got a 4" lift kit from G & R Imports. Installation was straightforward and pretty easy.

    The box arrived kind of crushed and one of the flaps hanging open. There were some parts missing but G&R sent out replacements super quick - no drama. I really appreciate their customer servive.

    After getting it lifted, the camber was out by a degree or so. On my DB52T the "tunnels" around the strut bulge inward a bunch. When moving it downward 3" the top mount of the strut rides right against the sheet metal. There's no way to scootch it inward to adjust camber. I used cam bolts in the lower strut mount to straighten things up. Pretty good now.

    We'll see what the tracks hit now when turning.

    Also, I needed to trim where the front driveshaft travels through the big mount. It was barely touching so I just hacked out a little more clearance.

    20211214_125020.jpg 20211229_182118.jpg 20211229_182223.jpg 20211229_182143.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jan 12, 2022
    Acerguy likes this.
  5. 13-ball

    13-ball Member

    Yeah... That's going to be a big difference.

    20211219_181639.jpg 20211219_151940.jpg
     
  6. 13-ball

    13-ball Member

    For the rear anti-rotation brackets I decided to use the RZR ones - which came with the tracks I bought - as raw material.

    I used the u-bolt as an anchor. Welded a plate with captive nuts to the u-bolt so the rest of the bracket can go on and off easily. I took that idea from a 4 Son's Off Road video on YouTube. Hopefully it'll make it pretty quick to swap tracks for tires and back again.

    The rest was straightforward in measuring down to make the spring arm level and outward enough so it'll reach without binding.

    20211220_121511.jpg 20211220_121526.jpg 20211220_134616.jpg 20211220_134644.jpg
     
  7. 13-ball

    13-ball Member

    So, these tracks were for a Polaris with 4x156 bolt pattern. I figure no problem, I'll just get adapters that go from 4x100 on the axle side to 4x156 on the wheel side.

    Ordered them with 12mm studs to match the axle studs. 1 1/2" thick to give some additional track clearance.

    I don't really know how they fit on a Polaris but the 12mm lug nuts just barely nestle in with no room for a socket or lug wrench to go on. I could spin them so far with my fingers but no possible way to get a wrench on at all. Too tight surrounding the lug nut. Maybe Polaris uses a 10mm stud? Dunno.

    To solve this I got a set of those tuner lugs that use an internal key. Pretty easy fix but that little key is sure to be missing when I need to take it apart!

    If you're shopping used tracks, the ones that have a Polaris setup will be harder than a set with the smaller bolt pattern and equal size F & R drive sprockets.

    20211229_130943.jpg 20211229_131030.jpg 20211229_131052.jpg
     
  8. 13-ball

    13-ball Member

    On the front, I didn't like how the anti-rotation arms needed to be reefed over at a big angle to line up with the ball joint. Really had to force it. Decided to extend the mount inward to get it all lined up straight and (pretty much) level.

    20211221_145235.jpg 20211221_145242.jpg 20211221_145335.jpg
     
  9. 13-ball

    13-ball Member

    Just a little trimming of the bumper plastic. Removed the plastic mud flap and was good on the back side of the front tracks.

    20211226_160934.jpg 20211226_160956.jpg
     
    installater likes this.
  10. 13-ball

    13-ball Member

    This is how the bracketry looks all painted up and installed.

    Back

    20211229_182004.jpg

    Front

    20211229_181831.jpg 20211229_181717.jpg 20211229_181628.jpg
     
  11. 13-ball

    13-ball Member

    Out in the light of day again!

    20220112_131438.jpg
     
  12. raser

    raser New Member

    hey 13 ball how does it go with the 17 tooth sprockets i have 15 tooth sprockets as that was what the camoplast had for their suzuki carry track kit i also bought mine used and the guy gave me extra sprockets i just never tried them. I also like the way you did the front anti roll bar setup i may have to rethink how i did mine
     
  13. 13-ball

    13-ball Member

    I really don't know how it is yet. I've driven around on dirt just a little bit. It's loaded and we're going over to Colorado tomorrow for the maiden voyage on tracks. I'll post something after that.

    20220116_085517.jpg
     
  14. CVP33

    CVP33 Active Member

    Two great looking rigs!
     
  15. 13-ball

    13-ball Member

    Stick with the 15 cog - for sure. I couldn't pull 3rd gear in 4L.
     
  16. raser

    raser New Member

    Wow that’s what I was thinking it wouldn’t have the power thanks alot for the tip. Look’s like I have a set of cogs to sell. Mine will hit 50 kmh in 5th 4 low according to the speedometer on an open road might go more but it sounds like it is pushing it. I need to get a tachometer set up
     
  17. 13-ball

    13-ball Member

    So, on the maiden voyage I ran into some snags.

    #1 The transfer case would pop out of 4L when climbing. If I kept my hand on the shifter it would stay but, that's not very practical. In looking at it closer you can tell that someone had the transmission taken apart at some point in the past because the seams are spooging silicone. I've reached out to the dealer I bought the truck from hoping to change out the trans/xfer case.

    #2 The 17T sprockets are too tall. Needs to be geared lower to pull the hill up to our cabin. Was crawling along (so slow) in 2nd gear with the revs screaming. I ordered a set of 15T sprockets. We'll see if they'll make it more driveable or if it just shifts the slowness up a gear.
     
  18. 13-ball

    13-ball Member

    Swapping the 17's for 15's....

    swap cogs 2.jpg swap cogs.jpg
     
  19. 13-ball

    13-ball Member

    Works better now. Still wish it had more low end grunt power instead of the high revs.

    Got it around by holding the stick in 4L. Still awaiting trans from dealer.

    20220205_135811.jpg 20220206_102232.jpg 20220206_102211.jpg
     
  20. raser

    raser New Member

    hey sucks you have to hold it in low wondering if it might be your cable holding it out when you did the lift mine does 30kmh top speed in 5th 4low i checked it out lots of low end but no speed which is what i already knew my buddy is doing 60 tops with his canam on tracks
     
  21. 13-ball

    13-ball Member

    It's not the cable. I took it all apart and verified the cable gets the arm on the trans to full throw. It's something internal. Seems the transmission was taken apart at some time - you can see lots of silicone oozing out of the mating surfaces.
     
  22. 13-ball

    13-ball Member

    The mini truck was kind of underwhelming as a snow cat. Works great on packed roadway but if the snow is a little deep it'll spin one front track and one back track when climbing. I looked around to see if I could find either a locker unit to fit the carry axle or a whole different axle to swap in. Axles from other trucks (ie. Samurai) are easy to get locker units for but I don't think you can get it geared as low as a kei truck axle is.

    I found a complete, used locking axle that'll bolt in straight across. I'll bring the truck down from the cabin this summer and do the swap then.

    Does anyone know of any Torq Locker from an ATV/UTV that'll go into the Carry (DB52T) front axle? Like the axle diameter and spline count is the same - making it close enough to work with....

    carry locker rear end.jpg locker mechanism.jpg
     
  23. SAITCHO

    SAITCHO Active Member

  24. 13-ball

    13-ball Member

    I looked at that. I'm skeptical. No friction discs, no ratcheting mechanism.

    At best those springs will load the side gears against the carrier and make some friction. How much? It's a polished surface, bathed in oil meant to glide.

    My thought is that it would make very little engagement in situations when you really need it most. Just my guess...
     
  25. SAITCHO

    SAITCHO Active Member

    I am very skeptical also but people on Face Book swear by them.
     
  26. 13-ball

    13-ball Member

    I wish people would post their experiences in a place a Google search can find. Like here....
     
  27. SAITCHO

    SAITCHO Active Member

    I prefer old school forums but in 2022 they are not as popular as before. For niche content like kei trucks there is more activity on FB.
     

Share This Page