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Timing Marks on transmission housing

Discussion in 'General Truck Info' started by TooManyProjects, Oct 15, 2020.

  1. The timing marks are under the little "door" on the transmission bell housing. Well, under the little door, is a tab with 3 points on it. Is one of those "0" (in the middle) and the ones on either side 5 degrees from zero? Or what am I looking at in relation to timing marks?
    Thanks much!
     
  2. Limestone

    Limestone Well-Known Member

    Well, on mine, under that little black rubber door, that lifts straight up and out, is a little tab like you said, except, on mine from left to right it reads, "0", and four hash marks, then a "10" ! So to me, each hash mark represents, 2 digits! (0, 2, 4, 6, 8, 10)!
     
  3. Limestone

    Limestone Well-Known Member

    I'm wondering if, both sides of yours are missing, or cut off, which, i can't understand why that would be. I'm taking a wild guess, and I'm probably wrong! Just leaving three of the four hashes in the middle of the tab. Doesn't really make sense to me, you just having three hash marks! o_O
    Limestone
     
  4. Limestone

    Limestone Well-Known Member

    I guess based on this, I would start from the left side and assume zero, and see how that works, assuming each hash means 2!:rolleyes:
    Limestone
     
  5.  

    Attached Files:

  6. This is whats under the trap door.
     
  7. Limestone

    Limestone Well-Known Member

    mine!
     

    Attached Files:

  8. Limestone

    Limestone Well-Known Member

    Not sure if that helps or not! Sure seems like two diff. marking systems to me!
     
  9. Well. I dont have the cool stuff like yours hahaha!!! I guess I'll keep fooling with it until it acts like its supposed to haha!!! Thanks much!
     
  10. Limestone

    Limestone Well-Known Member

    Be nice if someone with a unit like yours, I think, 91 Mitsubishi, can weigh in, and let you know what they set theirs at, with possibly, identical marks!
    Limestone
     
  11. I'm sure someone will see it and mention something. I got the thing running pretty decent. But now I'm beginning to think that the thermostat I replaced the original with, is not letting it warm up enough. The original thermostat had a "bubbler" in it, like the old school thermostats. The new one didn't. So I driled a 1/16 hole in the flange. And it has yet, in 5 years, to get above the first little hash mark at the beginning of normal running temp on the gage. I'm going to get a new one and replace it, only NOT drill the hole in it. And see what happens. I think it might not be letting the choke open up fully. Thus making it difficult to get the idle and timing to match, if only by ear. Thanks for your help. Ill check in from time to time and see if anyone else has a new idea or direction to go regarding the timing marks. Thanks much!!
    Joe
     
    Limestone likes this.
  12. Ok. Im back. After asking some mechanics who are smarter than me, even when they are playing dumb, they have come to the conclusion that I do not have a fuel delivery problem. But rather a electrical problem. They said start with the ignition module. As they tend to get hot inside the distributor. Replaced it. (AMAZON 15 BUCKS!! Not $144 as some would have you believe) Not it. Now, I have no spark at all. So on to the coil. Is there a replacement coil or a OEM that doesn't cost $200? All I can find is used junk. And I have plenty of that. Hahaha!!!!
    Thanks, Joe
     
  13. I THINK I FIXED IT!!! Replaced the ignition module. Not it. Replaced the coil. Not it. Replaced the ignition trigger. EUREKA!!! It seems to run pretty well even after it get up to running temp. Which, just as you might be thinking, created yet ANOTHER problem. HAHAHA!!! Very strange one at that. Its right hand drive. So, if I stand on the drivers side with the door open, and shake the truck, I noticed it begins to spit and sputter. Then, upon further messing around, I pushed up on the right side of the cab, as if I was trying to turn the thing upside down. And guess what? If I hold it there, it begins to spit and sputter. As soon as I let it down, it begins to run fine. So, I went to the passenger side (left side) and did the same thing. And it seemed to run BETTER. What in the actual he11 is going on there?
    The sump in the gas tank is on the passenger side. So this week, out comes the tank for a cleaning and thorough inspection.
    Ignition module... Napa or Amazon (J153) $15.00
    Coil.... Napa 12 volt coil (using the original bracket) $20.00
    Ignition pickup coil...Amazon $23.00.
    I have found, if you look long and hard enough and exhaust all the part numbers one might need, eventually, many of them are rather easily obtained for far less than buy parts from a dealer for 10x or more the price.
     
  14. Limestone

    Limestone Well-Known Member

    How much fuel was in the tank when you did this?
    Limestone
     
    TooManyProjects likes this.
  15. Limestone
    The tank is always at least half full. I try to keep it that way, out of fear of watered down gas causing rust in the tank. I removed the fuel tank this evening. Cleaned it out as best I could. Found a few treasures in there. 2 screws and some assorted pebbles. HAHA!! But pretty clean all and all. Tomorrow night I plan to go through the rest of the fuel system to check for bad lines and such. A mechanic friend of mine mentioned, as someone else did too, it could be a float problem. Which I will be getting back in the carb as soon as I check the fuel delivery system.
     
    Limestone likes this.
  16. Limestone

    Limestone Well-Known Member

    Yeah, that's why I was asking! That was my next suggestion, or thought, providing your fuel level wasn't low!
    Limestone
     
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  17. Limestone,
    After removing the fuel tank, giving it thorough cleaning, I discovered it has a external pump. It seems to run out fairly decent now. I think get a new fuel pump and replace the filters. I was talking to the guy at the local part shop (NAPA) who has been there since we were kids (I'm 50 now) and he reminded me there are only to kinds of fuel pumps. High and low pressure. The smaller of the two is what I'm going with. Less fuel pressure obviously. As far as the time goes, I can wing it and do it by ear. Another person posted a pic of the timing marks on theirs, but fortunately for them, theirs had actual marks WITH NUMBERS. Mine has just 3 little points that stick out. Similar to the timing marks on the timing chain cover of a older small block Chevy. No numbers, just little points of reference. And I have found nothing on here or anywhere else, that gives a "ZERO" point of reference. To my knowledge, I'm the only one that has been this far into this rig. So I'm confident that someone hasn't lost or removed any parts. Thanks for the help. Ill post back later when I know more.
     
  18. Limestone

    Limestone Well-Known Member

    Too,
    I was hoping that a Mitsubishi owner would chime in with more help on their timing marks. Those are my timing marks, posted above for comparison, with the numbers, like a normal timing mark system that I'm more used too! For the life of me I cant understand your marks, and who put the pink and red paint, on there? Sounds like your making headway with the fuel tank, pump, and lines! Definitely low pressure fuel pump, around 2-3 psi! As far as you being the only one that far into the rig, maybe, but if you didn't add the paint marks, then someone else did! Hey , Maybe start another post in the Mitsubishi section, labeled "Mitsubishi timing marks", asking for help, and someone might chime in, on those marks! Just a thought!
    Limestone
     
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  19. Limestone,
    I put the red and pink paint on there, so they were a bit more visible. HA! I'm surprised there aren't any numbers on the marks. Degree from TDC and so on. I can only assume the center mark is zero. So that's what I'm going off of for the time being.
    Joe
     
  20. Limestone

    Limestone Well-Known Member

    I like it, the paint marks! I'm a big fan of such moves! I do it a lot with many applications! If you google timing marks and go down, you might find some interesting info to help you! I'm not so sure where your zero starts, that's the part that bothers me! Anything else is just guess work, and why waste your time!
    Limestone
     
    TooManyProjects likes this.
  21. Limestone,
    I keep a wide assortment of paint markers around for just such things! I tried the Google thing. Ill look again. I probably looked right at it and kept scrolling. Haha!! And yes, where is the zero?? Bothers me too.
    Update!.... I think I'm getting closer to my big issue. I took ClubFoot (that's the name I gave the little monster) out for a drive this afternoon, and noticed something odd. In my last posting of the fuel issue, I mentioned it would spit and sputter when I rocked the truck back and forth from the right side, but not the left. Then, I parked on my driveway, on a hill facing upwards, and it started spitting and sputtering again. It runs out good on level ground though. I'm thinking maybe it's something still in the carb. Float sticking?? I'm going to take the carb off again, and have another look around. I'm headed inside now to get back to Google and those goofy timing marks. Thanks again!
    Joe
     
  22. Jigs-n-fixtures

    Jigs-n-fixtures Well-Known Member

    You could have some kind of deteriorated soft line in the tank, at the pickup which is going bad. I had a 77 Toyota Hilux, that developed a split in a fuel line which went form the sock filter to the hard line on the fuel pickup in the tank. So long as the split was covered, it ran fine. When the fuel level dropped to about a third of a tank, it would start getting weird fuel starvation issues, at a 1/4 tank it would start stalling out.

    I was living in Las Vegas, and working on a construction project at the far end of the state at Denio, (look on a map, you might find it, just south of the Oregon border on US95). Bought a five gallon gas can, and would dump it in the fuel tank, when it got down to half a tank, and nursed it along until the project ended, and I got black home.

    When I was back in the land of tools, and a pick-a-part yard, I dropped the tank and found the culprit, a three inch long piece of fuel line, that coupled together two steel hard lines.

    Had a Dodge Dart, that would fuel starve anytime I got into the throttle, teh secondaries would open up, and it would lean out, spent a bunch of weekends putting progressively bigger jets in the secondary side of the carb, and never fixed the problem. Finally the wise old parts guy asked why I was buying so many Holley jets. He had enough sense and experience to recommend I take off the hood, and tee a fuel pressure gauge into the fuel line just before the carb.

    When I gat into the throttle and opened the secondaries the fuel pressure dropped. Started by replacing the fuel filter, didn’t fix it. Stuck in an electric fuel pump back by the fuel tank, didn’t fix it. Replaced the stock 5/16ths fuel line with 3/8th line from the tank to the carb, didn’t fix it. Finally bought a new 3/8ths “race” fuel pickup, and dropped the fuel tank to replace the stock 5/16ths.

    Found that there was some kind of deposit in the inside of the fuel pick up, and it was down to about 1/8th inside. Put in the new race pickup, since I was already in there. Problem solved, now I was too rich and had to reset the carb back to stock.

    The trucks are getting old, things fail that would never fail on a newer vehicle. Gotta learn to think out of the box to fix them. Now that I’m older and wiser, I’d start with a fuel pressure gauge tee’d into the fuel line, and see what is happening to the fuel pressure when it is sputtering.
     
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  23. Limestone

    Limestone Well-Known Member

    Jigs,
    This is a great hands on, referencing story, truly explaining, like you said, to "think outside the box"! I love it, and Totally agree!
    Limestone
     
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  24. I took the tank off the other day, and gave it a thorough cleaning. Replaced fuel lines from the tank to steel lines along the frame rail. Going in to the carb again, and going to replace the fuel lines from carb, back to steel lines on the frame rail. Along with a new fuel pump and filter. Probably going to have to bite the bullet, and shell out for a carb kit. Cheapest one I found was G&R Imports in southern Missouri, for $150.00. Although, after being in the carb once already, I don't believe it needs it. Better safe than sorry.
    Thanks Jigs and Limestone for all your insight. I'll post updates when I get done.
     

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