guys the carb i used in the first few posts of this thread works just fine. it took a new throttle cable to get it all sorted out & a little bit of tuning.... but it worked fine.... for very little money.
yeah several links to oit posted in this thread.. in the link today its went up a little: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007EEVM66/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 but some searching on the net you can still find it cheaper. caltric in Commiefornia is who has them...
It doesn't say what size it is Or Who it is a copy of? I tried that style carb and it would not come off idle with out really featering it.
its a 32mm copy of a rhino 660 carb. THINK it was 2004-2007. YES mine had to be feathered to take the throttle as well. if you opened the choke just a hair that went away. The fellow who bought this machine from me said that the chinese versions of this carb (think HISUN) had this trouble a lot. that the actual yamaha versions do not. i dont know if thats accurate or not, only that this made my machine useable again for very little money & some aggravation. in the end i sold this buggy after getting a EFI model, which i love. in my next purchases or future mini's? they will all be fuel injected. because im pretty sure these are like potato chips.... once you have one you just have to have another.
LOL Thats why I would want a Mikuni as I could re jet it to perfection. And that Polaris carb IS a Mikuni
KC, honestly have no idea on top end.. i took it down to the gas station & back in 2wd hi.... was in the 65 KMH range on teh way back. 95% of my usage is grunt work. 4wd, lo range fully loaded with logs & such. almost all 1st or 2nd gear in low range. torque, torque, torque.... thats all i need.
Well we are about to find out. Just found that carb on Ebay for $25 bucks and the flange was $22! If this will work I will try and get pics?
KC, hey bud if you wind up needing the choke cable or throttle cables let me know ive got the numbers around here somewhere. you can skip the throttle cable if you are creative with the factory one.. but the choke cable is another story... you probably gonna need that.
I have an idea on the throttle cable. Hook them together with a 1 long piece of allum Chanel with the holes drilled there and a notch opposite each other and keep them apart with a 6" piece of light angle? Throw a rubber boot over it all? I did get a longer choke cable but the issue I have is this just pulls and you have to hold it! The std Mikuni has a 2 step lever
the throttle cable will work if you trim down the lead on the end so that it can go thru the hole. then you can fix the stock cable to the mounting spout on the carb. the good old JB weld or liquid steel around it works. i had a bad cable & had to get a new one anyway. on the choke? i just bought the regular issue pull choke cable from yamaha for it. plugged right in, screwd down & then mounted it on the dash. worked just fine. throttle cable: www.ebay.com/itm/SPI-Throttle-Cable-2005-2009-Rhino-450-660-Replaces-OEM-5UG-26311-10-00-/383351912995?hash=item59418dfa23 choke cable: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-Gen...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
KC, nope its the standard old pull choke that we grew up with. mount the end of the cable in the dash or wherever you want & pull it on & its on until you push the knob back in. the little spring on the needle valve in the choke is not strong enough to close the choke on its own with the length of the cable. thats how got mine to actually run good. depending on temp outside i would leave the choke cracked open just a hair until she warmed all the way up. my timing was at 10* with my idle at about 1K. Thing liked the best about this was that in low range w/1st gear it would move at idle after yo ulet the clutch out & this makes a great downhill engine brake!
Got the Mikuni in and another on the way as well as manifold Give me another week or two and I'll possibly have something good to revile!
Just won a 40mm pumper off of a DR650! Im looking at the 34 as a street carb for low end and the 40 as for off road and screamer!
Alright so I finally got my rhino carb I ordered off ebay. It got lost/late because of corona but it's here. I'm still an absolute noob when it comes to carburetors so I might need help figuring out some features out of this one... (See picture!) 1) ??? 2) ??? 3) ??? (It even goes to the other side) 4) Fuel in? 5) Excess fuel out? Thanks!
1= choke pull 2= i call this an enricher... the hose from your air cleaner goes here & it draws air from there when the choke is on. 3= vent/over flow 4= fuel supply (at about 2.5psi 5=is the bowl heater that you wont use or the drain plug... icant tell from your pic if this is same carb i got? the throttle cable should be on that side you cant see down low. go back & look at my series of pix along the way... its all showing for you.
That is similar to the 40mm pumper I got Suzuki DR650 I'm fairly happy so far with mine It is had to start and all?
Okay, thanks for helping me figuring this thing out... 30$ for a choke able though? What the heck. Gona end up more expensive than the carb itself! Also yes, it's the same carburetor model as yours! I'm following your guide because, as I found out, the stock carburetor is needlessly complicated and utter garbage... too bad I only figured this out after having spent 200$ on a Chinese replica (for some spare parts) and 160$ on rebuild kits (first one wasn't the right one) to put my original carb back into shape. Sort of. Not my wisest investment. In fact, probably my dumbest.
The choke cable is an issue. The one I got is just a pull, it has the right ends but tooo long for the stock set up. I had to add an extra cable adjuster to make it work! I believe that a standard single choke cable for a snowmobile would work better! Flip up lever to first notch or second! This may help with the hard starting? Anyone have a fix?
i used the factory Rhino choke cable & throttle cables... the choke cable was long but no issue as i just mounted the knob in the dash on one of those pop outs. worked perfectly. throttle cable i did change the end back to the suzuki end but there was plenty of cable & it was no issue at all. once i found the sweet spot with this new carb? it fired right up. there are always little things & getting the fuel pressure down was a big one. that stopped it from flooding the carb/float out & it ran better all the way around. YES if you look back a couple pages, i did have to feather the throttle to get the rpm's up. thats how i operate anyway. im not a stab it to the floor type guy. the guy who bought this truck from me told me that he had also seen a carb swap on these done before & that if you get the chinese version of the carb.... you may or may not get one with a good float setting. He said they didnt have the QC that the Japanese versions do. no surprise there.
I bought a universal external fuel pump off e-bay in the ballpark of 5 psi, also got myself a fuel pressure regulator, adjusting it to proper pressure should be easy enough. Also, the barrel nipple at the end of that choke cable isn't even the right way around (the original Rhino one). It wouldn't even work... at least, not on my carburetor... guess the Chinese screwed that up in their replication process... but a bicycle brake line would do the trick though. Dirt cheap. Heck, possibly even free. I could make this work. Also, what's that about feathering the throttle and RPMs? You mean on the Rhino? Does it bog down or something?
Think one of the carb gurus here said it was about jetting? I always feathered the gas to get the RPMs up. Vs stomping the peddle to the floor & flooding it out. On my Rhino? Was never a problem.
It takes 5 min to even get mine to start! Thinking about putting a Primer on it? I did find that I may have an intake air leak? Guna get gaskets and a 30" Universal snowmobile choke cable (bout 10 bucks)
KC, nah man... once i switched carbs? starting was never an issue. did you put that regulator on there? cause if its holding the 2.5lbs against the carb you wont need a primer. that vac leak could be a different story though.
Yeah Im set a 2# and it cranks and cranks, if you even touch the throttle it just cranks After a few min it will catch kinda then it's just another min or so of cranking! Then once it stumbles to fire it's another min or two before you can move!
im clueless on whats going on unless its that vacumm leak 7 then as it warms up it expands & seals it off?
