Just a few pics that I had, I thought that I would post before deletion. First off, the rear drums do have pusher-pin M8 threaded holes to help in the removal of the rear drums. Be nice to them. A little auto-tranny fluid maybe, then some light torque, and a few hammer smashes on the face of the drum to slip it off of the center axle seat. Which is tight and probly corroded. Give it a few wacks, a few M8 turns, a few wacks...repeat. Not a really big deal, but I've read a few posts where guys had problems getting things apart, then a few problems getting them back together. Take a few pics yourself, make sure you know what goes where, and how it gets there... A few LEFT-REAR shots... A few RIGHT-REAR shots... The shoes "re-lined"... I guess that you could consider this the LEFT-REAR-MOST shoe, even though all four are identical, just by it's placement in the pic. You could use it in any of the four spots though. As I've said elsewhere, this is 3/16th re-line, but with a "cut" drum, probly 1/4 inch would be OK. Pretty strait forward. The unusual points I guess, would be to relieve the extender shoe pressure by pressing a flat screw driver against the "gear" mech, to extend, and at the same time, push it to the rear. To the back-plate. Found this if you need one... I think though that you just have to be a little careful to not rip seals while messing around in there. Never-sieze is your friend. I used it on the back-plate, for the three movement per-shoe placks. Six/side, twelve in all. Lower shoe mounts, upper shoe mounts, central shoe pin&spring mounts. Park-brake to rear shoe pin mount, adjuster mech... The usual rear brake assembly procedures. Don't forget to open the bleader to get it all squished down...then pump up the brakes, blead a few ounces out, and it's all done... op:
Thanks,especially for the wheel cyl. find.I'm looking at doing this job if I ever get done with the kids truck.
Additional info link... http://www.minitrucktalk.com/showthread.php?1789-1991-Suzuki-Carry-Brake-Cylinder-Rebuild-Kit I guess it's important to confirm that the "dorman" replacement is a 3/4 bore, if not change both sides. Worth some investigation for 18 bucks. I just honed one of mine out, all fixed...
FYI the dorman 3/4" bore will not fit in between the backing plate and the axle bolts. Even after tightened in there, spin the axle and it hits. In my eyes it won't work. I was hoping so being that I picked up a pair for $13. WIll hit the pavement tomorrow looking again.
Found a cylinder that looks like it will work fine. Little smaller bore than the original, much smaller in price. This is a replacement for a Suzuki swift. Will get the part number later today. This one will work on either side and will require splitting the brake liner.
Suzuki Swift(3cyl)=Suzuki Sprint(4cyl)=Chevrolet Metro(3cyl) so you may even be able to buy through local Chevy Dealer. Fred
Decided to do the rear brakes on the 96 Suzuki, ordered the brake shoes and spring kit from G&R imports about a month or 2 ago. It warmed up to 27 degrees So I flipped the Propane heat going and had plans to do the left side first. Pulled the old shoes and springs off, looked at the spring kit with the new brake shoe spreader and springs and found these new parts were not the same. The springs were a lot smaller and the shoe spreader looked like the one in Spaners pics, so I had to use the old parts and springs, because the new shoes would not fit with the parts G&R sent. Replaced the old cylinder with new ones I found on E-bay for $39 bucks a piece remember if you replace the cylinders one has a bleeder(the left side) and the other (right side) does not, it has 2 brake lines. Well the left sides done, tackle the right side tomorrow they said no snow for a couple days. I have a 72" plow on the old Suzuki, never have any problems plowing snow with it.
Well, rear brakes are done for a while, what a pain in the ass. Had to replace both rear brake lines and trying to tighten those little 10mm nuts even with a line wrench was a pain in the ass. Going to put a Bluetooth radio in next, then a led light 42" light bar
@native long shot, but just wanted to confirm the rear brake line has to be split when using these wheel cylinders. Picked up a couple for an 89-96 Swift that look like they would work except for the right side where both lines are attached. BTW, the single bleeder on the rear drum brakes is a very JDM kind of thing. My RX-7 has the same setup for its rear drums.
