Ok i have recently purchased a pair of 1992 sambar's one motor out disasembled. I have read the posts for days.First thing is i can not get this thing to fire.I set timing marks as stated on crank and cam.kept looking for the "T" mark or plug to view such on flywheel.came to the conclusion, mine is on serpentine pulley.when i first tore in the belt tensioner was missing the spring.I have set the timing several times.last night i found that the fuel line from fuel pump was actually going to return.It popped and backfired a couple times through vacuum lines.I then found plug wires on dist cap wrong.now nothing.Im hoping someone can help me figure out a baseline on where to start.Also the compression test only showed around 135-100 psi across the cylinders.the firing order found here was 4321 flywheel to timing belt.
would like to also note that after correcting fuel lines electric fuel pump sounded as if it built up...aka came under a load.now it does not.I have not checked plugs since.Are these as finicky as snowmobiles?the plugs are NGK.if they foul are they done?
when you turn the key onto ignition on mode (not cranking the engine) you should hear the fuel pump run/prime for about 3 seconds, can you hear it? and are you getting spark off of the spark plug wires?
huh, if youre getting fuel and spark and youre sure the timing is correct i would maybe pull the plugs and check them, takes 5 min to remove them
Update I purchased a gasket set and used the spare head as it had better valves and they lapped in.With new valve seals and head gasket my compression tester is broke or I have major problems.It is now showing like 75-80 psi on 3 cylinders and 125 on 4th.Can these engines be bored?Trying to decide if im gonna pull it and try new rings.Any advice would be greatly appreciated.Also best place to find piston rings and such?Best i found was $137 for a set.
Ok i barrowed a different compression tester and the readings are as follows 4=80psi,3=145psi,2=120psi,1=130psi.I think that should be enough to run but not positive.Hoping i can get it to start and the rings will seat for better compression.This engine has sat for atleast 4-5 years.The bore looked shiny and chrome like when i had the head off.
I think you may have the firing order wrong, it is 1342 from the timing belt end. #1 on the cap is straight up with the centerline of the engine (as if the engine was standing straight up), then #3 90 degrees CCW (almost straight up as the engine is , #4 straight down with the centerline, #2 down as the engine lays.
ok im hoping this is the problem.To clarify, sitting behind the truck flywheel and trans on my left-timing belt alternator etc on my right.The cylinders from left to right are 4321 correct?Now with the timing marks aligned on cam ans crank number one on distributor seems to be around 2:00 which is right inline w/ cam/crank top to bottom.
Ok thank you both,just came in to check boards again real quick.Got what seems like all vacuum lines back on and coolant hoses.Gonna go out and see if i get it to fire.
Yes i was gonna do same thing,take a picture.That looks like the way i have it.Tried to start it.Used a remote starter switch with key on.All four plugs have spark but it didnt fire.Pulled the plugs and where dry as a bone.Wonder if the carb got messed up when whoever had it before me had pressure on spot where return to tank was and vice versa?Gonna search boards for no fuel scenario.Looks like i might be able to get to the bowl by removing 6 or less screws holding the top plate on and inlet/outlet lines.
fuel pump make noise with ignition on ACC no cranking? should be able to hear it make a whirring noise for about 4 seconds with ignition on. can also test for power at the fuel pump, carbureted EN07 have a small external pump easy to access
yes i hear it running and when i take fuel line off it shoots out.kinda wondering if float needle is stuck?
The compression should never vary more than five percent between cylinders on any internal combustion engine. If you have access to a compressor, build or buy, a leak down tester, and track down where your issue is. There are instructions on the web, or you can buy one through Amazon for less than $50. https://www.amazon.com/Milton-S-125...efix=Cylinder+leak,aps,686&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1 You screw it into the spark plug hole, and with that cylinder at TDC. Then you flow air through the cylinder. You can then listen for the air flow. If it is in the inlet passage the inlet valve isn’t sealing. Exhaust same thing. If you hear it in the oil fill port, the rings are bad. If you hear it in the radiator cap, on a drained engine, or see bubbles on full cooling system, it’s the head gasket. I knew a guy who used propane, and a propane sniffer to determine where the issue was. But if you try that be sure you’re in a well ventilated area, free of ignition sources. Now I’m wondering if a person could use a different gas, and a gas detector, for non combustible gas like CO2, Argon, or even Helium.
But it has enough compression to run and should be ran long enough to warm up completely before the compression can be properly checked. And if it has been sitting for a long time it may take longer for the compression to build back up.
Right now the carb is off and i sprayed fuel in intake manifold to see if it would "pop" but nadda. Im wondering about the ignition or if i set the valves right. Im not totally inexperienced with engines.I built my first small block at 16 in uncles garage.Seems im missing something simple.One thing i noticed was w/ key on and NOT cranking one cylinder continues to fire/spark.Figure that may be due to that cylinder lining up in distributor causing it to do so.As it is it should have enough compression to pop and stutter i would think.Is there an ignition module besides whats built in the Distributor?As far as leak down test, I took the best of the 2 heads and valves and rebuilt it.The one i used i lapped the valves in by hand and they looked perfect dull grey w/ no pits and proper seat width.Yes i know the rings have to be leaking some, was hoping they would free up and seat in when i got it to run.
Ok when i set the valves i did it on the bench.I turned the cam over till specific valve was on backside of the lobe on cam then set to given lash.Cold setting Intake .15mm +/- .02mm (.0059 in +/- .0007 in) Exhaust .20mm +/- .02mm (.0078 in +/- .0007 in)
Try squirting some engine oil into the cylinder before you insert the compression tester. If the rings are bad, the oil will increase the pressure.
yeah i didnt do a wet test,normaly do that to diagnose a head gasket if two adjacent cylinders show low.did you see the results i posted on test?4=80psi,3=145psi,2=120psi,1=130psi.I think that should be enough to fire.Probably wrong.
That is odd, I assume a 92 still has a points ignition? The manual, if you can call it that, makes no mention of electronic ignition but then it makes no mention of a lot of things.
Well i got myself confused now lol.I went out this morning and pulled the valve cover and timing belt covers.It is possible i have the belt on 180 degrees out i think.hell now im confused.The procedure i used was from the boards here, there was only one part of instructions i couldnt cvomplete and that was looking for a "T" mark on flywheel somewhere under a non existant cover on bell housing.I never did find it and even looked on the k4 i have that had engine pulled.
I know i could just change it and see if it works, but i dont want to do that.I want to know how to do it right the first time.
The cam can't be 180 out, it can be almost anything else. Use the mark on the crank timing gear, line it up with the indicator on the oil pump cover, either the mark at B or the arrow mark opposite it on the cam gear should line up with the mark on the inner cover.
ok the crank gear dot is aligned with oil pump cover indicator.cam gear dot/F on webbing aligned with with inner cover notch.correct?