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rough running ACTY

Discussion in 'Honda Acty' started by Jakester, Nov 2, 2013.

  1. Jakester

    Jakester Member

    I've had this '95 ACTY for 5 years and its always ran well. I've put in two sets of plugs during that time and it always fixed the problem. This time it didn't. Truck runs well when cold but misses and stumbles after it gets warmed up. I've never replaced the wires, points or distributer cap. Is it time for that and how much of a job is it? Looks like those items are pricey!! The plugs (NGK BKR52) all look alike with no fouling. Is there something else I should look at first? The truck has about 73000 K on it.

    Thanks in advance!
     
  2. minitruck.ca

    minitruck.ca Member

  3. shogun

    shogun Active Member

    Distributor and rotor are normally good for 100kkm, so let's say around 60Kmiles, that is what Honda mechanics tell me here in Japan. But you can inspect the cap and the rotor and measure it, also the ignition wires, if you like.
    But at that mileage it might be time for a replacement, keep the old stuff for emergency.

    Airfilter ever changed? If not, then it is time. Or at least clean it. Same with the small filter for the aircon under the seat. The original ones a pretty expensive. I used the plastic frame from the old filter and sewed in filter material for the kitchen air vent, works nice and very cheap. I replace that every 6 months.
    Does the exhaust smell of uburned fuel when warm? If so, it;s time to replace the 2 solenoids for air regulation in the carb, they as a rule of the thumb last 60kmiles. I have posted that here before how to test them and the part numbers, use the search

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2zblyxQzyf4
    http://blogs.yahoo.co.jp/kurumanosentakuya/archive/2012/3/25
     
  4. Sam Gamble

    Sam Gamble Member

    My truck starts up easy, but is running extremely rough, and the more I start it the worse it is. Now sometimes when I start it, it dies a few seconds after. It is definetly flooding and is puffing out lots of unburned fuel. I have gone through the carb, cleaning it and everything looks fine. I know there is a laundry list of things this could be but can you think of anything I can trouble shoot that won't cost me any money? The truck has around 76K miles on it. I have tested both solenoids and they are working fine, however the wires going to them don't look factory at all. The wires run from the ignition and then out of the rubber boot on the drivers side, then they go under the truck, unprotected, just zip tied to the frame in various spots. The wires at the ignition look stock however.
     
  5. shogun

    shogun Active Member

    So you tested the 2 solenoids outside = removed from the carb? But we are not yet sure if they really work when installed on the carb and wired up, as you mention that thw wires do not look factory at all?
    Did it work before without trouble? Then we can delete from the checklist the wiring. If not, somehow the wiring must be tested going to the solenoids.
    Unfortunately I do not have a wiring diagram for the Honda Acty truck, also not sure if the repair manual for the truck from James Danko include these details. http://www.lulu.com/shop/james-dank...service-manual/paperback/product-4004395.html but probably does, as it says:
    Third Edition: Over 230 Pages packed with information! This book is for 1989~1997 Honda Acty trucks and Vans. Carbureted Version. Contents include: 1. Specifications & Body Schematics. Decode your Vehicle Body-Engine-Transmission! 2. Factory Service Data Specifications 3. General Maintenance and Tune-Up 4. Engine Cooling System 5. Engine and Engine Overhaul 6. Fuel System & Emission Controls 7. Clutch Replacement 8. Drive Axels 9. Steering & Suspension Systems 10. Brake System 11. Starter & Alternator Charging System 12. Heating and A/C 13. Fuse & Relay Much More! Hundreds of Schematics and Diagrams to Help You Troubleshoot and Repair Your Vehicle!
    Publisher:Lulu.com
    ISBN: 9780557027996
    ISBN-10: 0557027993
     
  6. Sam Gamble

    Sam Gamble Member

    Yes I tested them outside the truck, The solenoids are working in the truck as well, however after removing the carb I forgot which wire went to which one but they both seem to serve the same purpose so I don't see why it would matter. When I turn the key they both get power. I "tested" the coil yesterday and couldn't see any spark so I ordered a new one. One from a 1986-1991 Honda or Acura will fit, just have to go pick it up today and see if it helps. As far as the wiring not looking stock, I'm new to these trucks so as far as I know they always look like this. But it just doesn't look like a Honda job to me, looks like the wires must have been replaced by someone in the past. As far as it running good before I have no idea. I got the truck a few weeks ago and it ran okay the first time I started it but it's been running like crap ever since. And yesterday I went to go try and start it and it wouldn't even attempt to run, just kept cranking and cranking.
     
  7. Sam Gamble

    Sam Gamble Member

    So it wasn't the coil, new one also didn't have spark, was because the ICM wasn't plugged in all the way (top screw was broken off when I bought the truck), bottom one is still good so right now for testing only I have a pair of vice grips holding the top part on. But ANYWAYS, even with a brand new coil (haven't removed it to reinstall the OE yet) the truck STILL runs like absolute crap!!! I got the truck to stay running for 5-10 minutes (only by keeping the idle up) and saw that the choke did eventually open with the coolant actuated thing, but it still runs horrible. It's missing very badly, sometimes when reving it, it seems to clear up, but I don't honestly know if it is even then running correctly because I haven't had it ever run good.

    The truck is also getting fuel, so I don't suspect it to be a fuel issue, also when it is running really rough it spits out smoke (unburned fuel?) so I'm leaning towards ignition. It today only coughed out smoke when I first started it, but I'm guessing that was from me trying to start it for so long so the cylinders were filled with fuel.

    So here would be my list of questions:

    The trucks alternator was seized when I bought it, so it is currently not in the truck. When the truck is running is there other parts that draw 12v? I'm wondering if there are in fact other parts pulling power maybe it's limiting the power going to the solenoids so they're not opening?

    The truck has roughly 76,000 Km on it, it in theory shouldn't need a cap and rotor right? The cap and rotor looks good, no rust or carbon tracks or cracking that I can see. I know that could cause a misfire for sure, but I don't want to invest $150 into a guess.

    I've also heard that a bad ICM (igniter) could cause a misfire like the one I"m experiencing, but again, it's an expensive part to buy on a whim.

    I guess compression is still in question. I asked to borrow a compression gauge from a friend and he never brought it over. I just find it hard to believe that at 76K on a Honda none the less that it would have bad compression, but then again I've been wrong before.
     
  8. Sam Gamble

    Sam Gamble Member

    Update: The wires are getting 12V when the truck is running. So that eliminates the solenoids as well. The way I see it we have now either igniton (cap and rotor), timing issue, or bad compression due to worn clyinder/Rings, bad or bent valve, bad valve seat, so on.


    Another Update: Drove the truck around for a few minutes maybe a total of 2 miles (not km) and the truck was running even worse when I got it back. The idle was never good, but is even worse when warm, the throttle did appear to smooth out slightly when I was reving it pretty high, but not when it was warmed up. The throttle at first was okay but as I said was horrible when warm. Now I am still not sure what the issue is, I could smell gas and the exhaust fumes in the truck were horrible.
     
    Last edited: Dec 15, 2016
  9. shogun

    shogun Active Member

    If the smoke is black, that is unburnt fuel. If blue, that is burnt oil, if white: either vapor from the moisture in the exhaust system, especially at colder temperatures, if it smells sweet, could be coolant from the exhaust.
    Difficult to comment/help now without seeing and hearing the engine running.
    Do you have a leak tester for the engine to diagnose internal engine problems such as bad rings valves and leaking head gaskets ?
    There are also Combustion Leak Detectors https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-75500-Combustion-Leak-Detector/dp/B0007ZDRUI
    This just to make sure that there are no other problems.
     
  10. Sam Gamble

    Sam Gamble Member

    I know unburnt fuel is generally black smoke and that white is coolant. When I first start it, there is blue smoke, so I think the valve stem seals are bad, no shocker there. But when it starts to run REALLY rough the smoke is white, which seems like it would be coolant (if it's a head crack or a bad head gasket then when it heats up the crack would expand, making it run worse) HOWEVER!!!! The smoke only smells like gas. I had a truck that had two blown headgaskets that I drove over 100 miles everyday for six months, so I know what burning coolant smells like.
     
  11. Haren de Silva

    Haren de Silva New Member


    Hi,
    Did you get your truck fixed?
     
  12. Sam Gamble

    Sam Gamble Member

    I have not yet. I recently started working again, and I work 13 days straight, 10 hours a day so I don't have time for much. I also bought a 91 Toyota MR2 Turbo that I'm rebuilding, so any spare time is taken up by that.

    I did buy a tune up kit (plugs, wires, cap, rotor) and it did absolutely nothing. I will likely remove the carburetor AGAIN and see if dipping, and cleaning it will work. Seems like possibly a low speed jet issue.
     
  13. Haren de Silva

    Haren de Silva New Member

    I have a HH3 1998. I had the same issue once I had the carb serviced. It was a leaky vacuum hose and on an previous repair the mechanic had mixed up a few vacuum lines which I manage to fix.
    The power lines to the carb are different from each other.
    The main fuel cut off valve works all the time but the other is the throttle valve which works timely.

    I have got with me the James Danko book. If you want me to look about let me know.

    Regards.
     
  14. Sam Gamble

    Sam Gamble Member

    I was also wondering if mine is vacuum related. I have had some new vacuum hose in my amazon cart for around 5 months now, just never bought it. I marked the hoses when I took the carburetor off so I think they're right, but even if they are they might be cracked or simply leaking.
     
  15. Haren de Silva

    Haren de Silva New Member

    The main fault I found was,
    The thermo coupler vale hose was cracked and there was a leak in it, it followed the same symptoms as you have mentioned on the thread.

    Regards.
     
  16. Sam Gamble

    Sam Gamble Member

    What exactly is that? Does your book show schematics of vacuum hose routing? There are quite a few of them, many ways to get it wrong but only one to get it right
     
  17. Haren de Silva

    Haren de Silva New Member

    You ll see the Thermo Valve on the left side of the image.


    IMG_20170810_143044.jpg
     
    shogun likes this.
  18. Haren de Silva

    Haren de Silva New Member

    Also I forgot to ask you, is the truck AT or MT?

    My phone number is +94773133273, I m on WhatsApp pls feel free to ask anything.
     
    shogun likes this.
  19. Sam Gamble

    Sam Gamble Member

    Thank you for the photo, the truck is MT.
     
  20. Haren de Silva

    Haren de Silva New Member

    Here is the diagram for MT
     

    Attached Files:

  21. Sam Gamble

    Sam Gamble Member

    Thank you! Any idea as to what size and roughly how much vacuum line I would need to replace nearly all of it.
     
  22. Haren de Silva

    Haren de Silva New Member

    Cannot really guess how it would be for yours. But best to replace all of it so you wouldn't have any doubts abt it. You might have to pull out the vacuum box out as well. Also don't forget to Mark the new lines with the numbering code as the diagram so it would be easier for further reference.
     
  23. Sam Gamble

    Sam Gamble Member

    What size (diameter) do I get, or is it all the same? I haven't ever replaced vacuum lines before, I've been fortunate enough with all my projects that they haven't needed it.
     
  24. Haren de Silva

    Haren de Silva New Member

    My HH3 has 3 sizes. I can't really remember what the size was when I purchased it. Guess you ll have to get a sample pice cut off and take it to a store. Also fuel lines work best.
     
  25. Sam Gamble

    Sam Gamble Member

    Was my plan already. Thank you for everything
     
  26. Haren de Silva

    Haren de Silva New Member

    Sam Gamble likes this.
  27. Sam Gamble

    Sam Gamble Member

    Finally got around to testing the compression on the truck, it's getting around 170 PSI on all cylinders. I"m fairly convinced again that it's a fuel delivery issue. The fuel output (one that connects to the carburetor) only initiates a flow of fuel after about 10-15 seconds of turning the engine over. I"m still not convinced my battery jumper pack is capable of running all the components the truck needs to run, I am still in the middle of tearing my MR2 apart, but sometime next year I will buy a new battery and alternator for the the ACTY and see if that helps.
     
  28. shogun

    shogun Active Member

    did you ever change the fuel pump? Also old fuel can clog the carb and and fuel filter.
    I just got a nice Honda power generator for free, as the owner complained it does not start. I disassembled the carb, removed the nozzle, cleaned it from the old stuff like chewing gum/wax, added some fuel system stabilizer and mixed it in with it with new gasoline and it runs again.
    Oxidized fuel often turns darker over time and may even smell sour. For eaxample STABIL fuel stabilizer will keep fuel fresh for up to 24 months.
     
    fmartin_gila likes this.
  29. Scottdunk

    Scottdunk New Member

    I had to replace my igniter/ICM when I redid the top end of my engine. it was awesome when cold but started to stumble when hot and was a pain to start after it warmed up. I found a ICM off of a 90's Honda Accord that worked for me and it was super cheap as it was from a wreaking yard. I also took my vacuum line manifold off and ran seafoam through it to clean it up as well.
     

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