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Poor running ACTY

Discussion in 'Honda Acty' started by Jakester, Jun 20, 2014.

  1. Thanks Old Machinist. I'm headed to the deer camp tomorrow. I'm going to leave it as is for now and see what happens.
     
  2. OldMachinist

    OldMachinist Moderator Staff Member

    My solenoid has been blocked off since Jan. 2010 and like I said the only problem I've had is restarting after it's hot and sits long enough to boil fuel vapors out of the fuel bowl thru the pilot air port into the engine.

    By the way the cover I was talking about in my previous post was the large round one next to the vacuum choke pull off one you pulled. There's a vacuum piston under there that controls a fuel metering needle. If it sticks the fuel mixture will be wrong for the rpm's it running.
     
  3. I had pulled that larger one off earlier, and everything seemed to be working properly there. Thanks again.
     
  4. I spent the weekend at the deer camp and the truck ran great. Never sputtered at all. I'm so relieved that it was the solenoid.
     
  5. shogun

    shogun Active Member

    Thanks, good to know, also thanks for the videos and pics.
     
  6. Went out to the deer camp about a week ago and had a hard time getting the truck to start. It finally started, but was running real bad. Lots of missing. I took it down the road a bit and it died out and would not start back up. So I let it sit for about an hour and it started again, so I drove it back to camp and parked it.

    Went back out there yesterday and this time it started right up, but still ran bad and died out again. So I let it sit for about an hour again, then loaded it on the trailer and hauled it back home.

    I guess I'll order the solenoid that I removed earlier, and hopefully that fixes it.
     
  7. OldMachinist

    OldMachinist Moderator Staff Member

    Sounds like a clogged fuel filer or fuel that's gone bad.
     
  8. Have not had a chance to look at anything on it yet. I don't think it's bad fuel, but it could be the filter. I had run the tank almost empty and then refilled it with fresh fuel and added some Sea Foam to the tank.
     
  9. I drove it around the shop for about 10 minutes and it did the same thing. It started and warmed up fine, and after driving for a few minutes it started sputtering. When I got back to the shop, it died out and wouldn't start back up. I let it sit for about 15 minutes and then it started back up.

    Does this sound like a fuel filter? Or is it that solenoid? Or something else.
     
  10. I found the fuel filter above the fuel tank. It's pretty nasty up there. I'm not sure how it is secured. I'm going to go to the parts store to see if I can pick one up. It looks like a filter from a '87 Honda Civic (and others) is the same. And it looks like there is a smaller 'inline' filter or something up there too that is above the regular filter in the second pic.

     
  11. Picked up a filter at CarQuest for $3.80. Car Quest part number R86204. It looks to be the same. I'll post what happens when I get it changed out. I don't think this is my problem, but for this price it won't hurt to change it anyway.
    0191fdc2c03547030bb38df096b73f2ecdf44187ed.jpg
     
  12. shogun

    shogun Active Member

    I would take out the solenoids and then test them like this, that is the only method for sure if they work or not
     
  13. I have already removed the plunger from the solenoid in that video, because it was not working at all.
     
  14. shogun

    shogun Active Member

    Removing the plunger complete from the solenoid may be a temporary solution, but these solenoids are apparently very important and have to work properly, I had a lot of probs 2 years ago when 1 solenoid valve was stuck. Black smoke came from exhaust = unburnt fuel, when I pushed down the gas pedal the speed and RPM decreased, fuel/air mixture ratio was not correct then.
     
  15. I suspect that may be my problem too. But, Old Machinist seems to have been successful without replacing the solenoid. I will order one from Japan today.
     
  16. OldMachinist

    OldMachinist Moderator Staff Member

    Mine is still running fine with the plunger removed and the line plugged.
     
  17. shogun

    shogun Active Member

    Never tried to remove the plunger, just replaced the solenoids. How is the fuel/air mixture without the plunger according to your feeling? Too lean or too rich?
    Part number for the solenoids I ordered are here
    16031-PZ3-000 Yokohama Motors mentions: Honda Acty Carburetor Air Vent Valve , Replace Failed Carburetor Air Vent Valve with this OEM Replacement. Bad Valve can Cause Rough Idle.
    16024-PZ3-000 Yokohama motors mentions: Honda Acty Carburetor Fuel Cutoff Valve, Replace Failed Carburetor Fuel Cutoff Valve with this OEM Replacement. Bad Valve can Cause Rough Idle or Failure Start due to lack of Fuel.
    http://minkara.carview.co.jp/en/ima...00/001/808/517/1808517/p7.jpg?ct=e67d9860e4e9
    from this site http://minkara.carview.co.jp/en/userid/1107954/car/1018655/1808517/note.aspx

    But contrary what Yokohama Motors mentions as: bad valve can cause rough idle, failure to start due to lack of fuel, in case of my problem it was too much fuel always, black smoke = unburnt fuel was coming out of the exhaust and fuel/air ratio was too rich. Confusing.....
    here they are called
    16031-PZ3-000 SOLENOID, AIR VENT CUT
    16024-PZ3000 SOLENOID, SLOW CUT
    http://jp-carparts.com/honda/part_d...TY TRUCK&cartype=30822&fig=E&fig1=100&fig2=13
     
  18. OldMachinist

    OldMachinist Moderator Staff Member

    The primary job of the air vent solenoid is direct evaporated fuel from the fuel bowl to the charcoal canister when the engine is not running. To do this the plunger also blocks the pilot air passages so removing the plunger is like having power to the solenoid all the time but you also must plug the line to the canister with the plunger removed so it doesn't suck air from there. When the solenoid goes bad there's no air getting to the pilot air jet and the fuel mixture is very rich.
     
  19. shogun

    shogun Active Member

    Thanks for the explanation, now I understand how that works.
     
  20. I ordered the solenoid today through Yokohama Motors. It was about $65 including freight delivered from Japan. I have not changed the fuel filter yet.
    I also ordered the coolant overflow tank at the same time. Total for the solenoid and fuel filter is about $115 including freight.

    Could it be that the my line to the canister is still sucking air? I won't have time to work on it for a few days.
     
  21. The filter I picked up at CarQuest (shown in post #40) did not fit. The filter was too big, and the fuel lines on the truck were too small. So, we picked up a standard 'inline' filter and zip tied it up in there.
    Changing the filter didn't seem to make much, if any, difference in how the truck runs. The solenoid I ordered from Japan was shipped today.

    01671385562166b1a60fd7cbd0238787a663211ed8.jpg
     
  22. The new solenoid came in a few days ago, but I have not had time to change it yet.

    I just took the truck for a short drive and it ran just fine. So, I'm not sure it's the solenoid, or maybe it was just the fuel filter.

    The bad news is that I just bought a '94 Toyota pickup that is rigged up for hunting. Which means I'll probably be selling my Honda soon. I hate to have to sell it but I got a good deal on the Toyota, and I'm just tired of having to work on my Honda every time I use it. And, I have to order most parts from Japan for it, and they cost so much. I feel that with the Toyota, I can get most parts locally, and a lot cheaper. And the Toyota has a lot more room. (It's an extended cab).

    I really love my Honda, and I know I'll miss it, but life goes on.....
     
  23. OldMachinist

    OldMachinist Moderator Staff Member

    After sitting with the Seafoam in it maybe it cleaned out something. Did you check the old filter to see if it was clogged or had a lot of stuff in it?
     
  24. Yes, the old filter was pretty nasty. That may have been the problem. I'll try to run it some more over the next few days to see what happens. But, I have someone who is pretty interested in buying it, so it may be gone in a few days. I'm gonna miss it....
     
  25. Jerry

    Jerry New Member

    id think its your catalytic converter blocking off the pellets expand as it heats and cuts your exhaust.
     
  26. Cobequid Flooring

    Cobequid Flooring New Member

    My acty is cutting out when it warms up. I changed the ignition control module, plugs, wires, cap and rotor. Going to do the coil next. This truck idles perfect and runs good until it heats up and then cuts out for a few seconds increasing in regularity as it gets hotter. Any thoughts?
     
  27. Cobequid Flooring

    Cobequid Flooring New Member

    Just put a new coil on it and it is still cutting out after it warms up
     
  28. DaddyS

    DaddyS New Member

    Did you make any headway on this issue?
    I might be dealing with something similar.
     
  29. Cobequid Flooring

    Cobequid Flooring New Member

    It took along time and many parts but yes my truck runs great now.
    We ended up running the truck with on a gas can in the back and it worked without quitting . So that narrowed it down to a fuel pump , lines or dirt in the tank. The steel supply line that goes into the tank runs along the bottom of the tank and is welded to a metal tab. Something was stuck under the tab and when I went up a long hill it would cover over the small opening that the line has and would stop the flow of gas. Sometimes it's the simple things that cause the problems, you just have to find it. On another note I have some used parts for sale , reasonably priced . ( ignition control module, coil, and fuel pump )
     
  30. DaddyS

    DaddyS New Member

    I might be interested in the module and coil. (I also need the cover for the carb if you know anybody with one.)
    I'll get back to you once I've done some testing.
     

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