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LHD S80 EB 550 Carburated Slow turning over and no spark

Discussion in 'Daihatsu Hi jet' started by Daniel McClellan, Feb 7, 2016.

  1. Daniel McClellan

    Daniel McClellan New Member

    So I am trying to get this thing running i replaced the coil and ballast resistor it had already been replaced
    at some point with a generic 12v non resistor coil and ballast resistor and was supposedly running but the resistor with this setup before.... But still nothing and Its slow to turn over using a 425 cra battery i don't know for sure if the coil is hooked up properly as the wiring was altered at some point to change the coil
    I searched and cant find a picture or a diagram of the coil wiring. These are the wires i have

    Black/Red-Believed to be the output from the points/condenser
    Black/Yellow -
    White-Was not hijet2wiring.jpg hijet wiring.jpg
    Heavy Black Wire- Is Key on Ignition
     
  2. fmartin_gila

    fmartin_gila Well-Known Member

    Being I am nearly computer illiterate and don't know how to draw out a pic or how to post it, I just know how to make things work, I will try to explain. You need the basics for it to run, Fuel in the proper amount of air/fuel mix, fire at the proper time, and enough compression for combustion. The wires at the 2 connections on the coil itself are correct. - to points & + to ignition. TEMPORARILY connect your wire that comes hot from the ignition switch directly to the + connection on the coil bypassing the resistor and disconnect the other wire that you show with a diode in it and put it aside so it won't short out to ground. Now if your coil is good and if the points are set and good and the condenser is OK, it should start. If it won't start, ensure you have fuel delivery by looking in the throat of the carb, You can check for spark by taking off the dist cap & rotor, then turn the engine to ensure the points are closed, then gripping only the plastic handle on a flat screwdriver flik the points open and closed, ensuring that no part of the screwdriver touches any other part of the dist metal except the arm of the moveable part of the points. Each time you open the points you should get a spark out of the center coil wire. If you get no spark, check that you actually do have a circuit from the - side of the coil through the points when closed to ground, could have some corrosion on the point surfaces or a shorted condenser which would prevent making a circuit to ground.. Then check the rotor and contacts inside the cap to ensure they are OK and reinstall them. It does need to be turning about 600 or more RPM while cranking in order to develop enough compression. Another thing to be aware of is during cranking whether the voltage draw on the starter is pulling down the available voltage to the point that the coil will not fire the plugs. If you can get it to run in this manner, then hook up the resister back in series with the coil + circuit. I don't know what the other wire with Diode in it would be for. It would also be best to check to ensure whether the coil is to be used with or without the ballast resistor.

    Sorry to be so long winded and I don't mean to talk down to anyone, but don't have any idea of your knowledge level. Hope this helps you a bit.

    Fred
     
    Last edited: Feb 7, 2016
  3. Daniel McClellan

    Daniel McClellan New Member

    Thanks Fred I will try that I did redo/clean all +/- connections from the battery to the truck that made a huge Difference in the spinning over of the engine but I gotta charge my battery now so I can get back to working on the the spark
     
  4. If you haven't been there yet, file or replace the points if it has them. Bad points will give you a little spark but not enough to start anything. I have learned this the hard way several times on different cars over the years. My S81 LHD actually has electronic ignition even though all the research showed points. If it is electronic wiring is different.
     
  5. Daniel McClellan

    Daniel McClellan New Member

    Definitely points and will do definitely need a Different battery first most of my experience mechanically is with hondas and they will crank with less than 250-300cca when I saw the starter I couldn't believe how big it was lol...
     
  6. I haven't checked CCA on the battery on my truck, It appears to be standard issue. It will crank a very long time and still keep going, amazing for a small battery. I have a fuel problem so long cranks to fill the carb let me test the starter and battery.
     
  7. Daniel McClellan

    Daniel McClellan New Member

    I have a 425cca that's not even a year old and it spinning it over fairly well now without the load from the coil but when you book it up it slows way down
     
  8. Wow, sounds like either a bad battery/ connection or shorted coil. The draw from the ignition is very small compared to the starter. Starter draw I would guess is 70+ amps and ignition should be 10 amps or so, I don't know exactly for these small engines. But it should not make a noticeable difference. I'd try jumping a know good battery to it and see what happens. You could use any car battery to jump as log as you get cables correct.
     
  9. Daniel McClellan

    Daniel McClellan New Member

    Haven't tried since redoing the grounds so will do.
     
  10. Daniel McClellan

    Daniel McClellan New Member

    Well still no spark I guess my battery is just not strong enough to do both if any has a non oem coil on theres can they snap a picture of the wiring like the pic above
     
  11. I am wondering how good your starter is. A weak starter will draw a lot of current and turn slow. Do you get spark checking with screw driver as described earlier? This system with points is the same used by almost all cars up until the 70's. Btw the wire with the diode is from the starter activation wire and bypasses the resister during starting. Makes them start a little better.
     
  12. Daniel McClellan

    Daniel McClellan New Member

    The starter does get quite warm aswell.... I ran out of juice in my battery before I could do anymore Diagnostic's on it but will check the screwdriver method the points are working making a circuit anyway...hooked testlight to the coil power from harness and the lead from points and it was blinking as engine was turning
     
  13. If the light was blinking that's a good start. You should have a spark at the coil if the circuit is making and breaking (blinking test light). If you have blinking light and no spark I would suspect a bad coil.
     
  14. mad659

    mad659 Member

    Just out of curiosity, have you moved the distributor? Too much advanced or retarded timing? That can slow up the cranking speed. The screwdriver test will definitely help diagnose the problem.
     
  15. Daniel McClellan

    Daniel McClellan New Member

    Well we pulled the started and its has about had it the solenoid is just about broken and the armature has severe wear we did clean every thing and put it back together but even with no load it is not spinning over well
     
    Last edited: Feb 14, 2016
  16. mad659

    mad659 Member

    Seems you need to remedy the starter issue first. I think I read that a Daihatsu charade starter will bolt on but the solenoid hangs closer to the ground?
     
  17. Daniel McClellan

    Daniel McClellan New Member

    I instantly went to looking into that after I saw the price of starters $$$$. Found a 1L charade starter that looks identical for 60$ just broke right now lol i was also able to find one in the small engine world as some of these engines ended up on small equipment
     
  18. mad659

    mad659 Member

    Let me know if it works. Maybe there is some way to clock the solenoid?
     

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