My engine finally gave up. The van's got 240,000 km's. I have no idea if the engine has been previously rebuilt either. I've got it out. Soooo easy. Just drain stuff, undo the shafts, linkage, and wiring, then take the whole subframe out with about 7 bolts. Dropped it all on my skateboard, jacked up the van, and out the side it went! Threw it on my CB750 and drove it to the engine hospital. I've been collecting parts from friends leaving Taiwan and it's funny how the engine let go just as I got the final parts I needed... right? The machine shop opened the engine up today and I got the call.... roasted piston. The rings I have are 65mm 0.50. The machine shop says that's 20 thou in American talk. They also said that the rings wouldn't have fit stock pistons. Now I'm hunting for pistons. I've put my cry out to Taiwan already. You guys are next! WTF am I going to find these?
Oversized 3g82 pistons I found a set of oversized pistons in Taiwan and they're in my friend's carry on luggage as we speak. They're on the way. I'm pumped! The machine shop said I could have just polished the crank and used the stock sized bearings. I only have oversized so I guess I'm going to machine it to their size... bummer.
crankshaft Bad news. Machine shop couldn't fit the crank on their machine because it was too small. They sent it out to another shop to be turned and they dropped it... They say there's a bad enough nick in it that they need to weld over it, grind it, and try to turn it again.
Went to the machine shop last week and saw my crank after they welded a full ring around the center journal and ground it down enough to send to get turned again. Got a call from them this morning asking me if I could get another crank.... I'm like "Duuuuuuuude, I don't think so." Then he said the crank turned out fine after the turning but they were concerned the crank would be brittle after the heat of that weld. We decided to use the crank and hope baby jesus doesn't push the money button again. Could have the block back tomorrow! I hope my photographic memory doesn't fail me.... the engine's been out for so long I've forgotten where all the wires and bolts go to. I hate it when that happens.
3g82 rebuild nightmare Got my engine back. Too bad they lost all the bolts for the flywheel and pulley tensioner bracket. They stripped the block, rebuilt it and gave it back to me with no external bolts. I called to tell them and they say they're nowhere to be found. Anyone have a dead engine with some extra bolts lying around? This is insane!
Ok so they found the bolts! Party time! I have only two problems I can see in my way now. The thick plastic gasket between my carb and manifold is cracked in a few spots I need to fix those. And the pipe (I hope) in the photo below is TOAST. I have no idea how I could make a new one or get a replacement. Does anyone know what this pipe does and if their engine uses it? I'd be really interested to hear a U42 has it because those things are way more common over here. URL=http://img256.imageshack.us/i/img1248il.jpg/][/URL] Uploaded with ImageShack.us
3banger, i have a partial carb kit that still has the plastic spacer and the gaskets for both sides if you're interested...can't help you with the pipe. looks simple enough though. a tubing bender and a little welding. i'd call on an exhaust shop for some fabrication if you can't find one.
3g83 corroded coolant pipe hose Dan, I want that spacer! The more I look at this pipe the more complex it seems to look. On one end of it there's a ring (so corroded I can barely make it out) that looked like it held a big rubber o-ring that slips inside the alum housing that bolts to the block (just under the intake manifold). I wonder what that little connection goes to? Dan, is there a cooling section in your manual? I was just asking my plumber buddy what I should do. I was thinking of welding a normal sized aluminum flange inside that existing alum piece so I could put a normal coolant hose on there. Most importantly, what would you do?? That's why I post all this crap. I really value your opinion.
i just had a thought...you're working with a different engine than i have...i may have mis-spoke. the hole alignment for my spacer is 75 mm center to center with a 34mm hole in the middle. let me know if that is going to work for you and i'll drop it in the mail.
i just went and looked at mine... it has one more fitting on the pipe than yours. near the thermostat there is another small pipe that feeds the choke on the carb. anyways, yours has a heater hose at the bottom. i would look at napa for a pre formed hose that would fit the radiator inlet and then 90 into a dimension that fits the outside of the thermostat housing. i just bought one for a cushman truckster that was a similar situation. it started with an id of 1" and ended in a bell that had a 1 1/2" end. then you cut to fit. this one had about a foot on either side of the 90. i would then cut-in some kind of barbed "T" near the radiator inlet for the heater hose.
My van has a manual (just how I like it) choke so I might not have that line I will probably see a return line for the heater on my intake/therm housing though. I measured the carb (all I could find at the time) it's inner bore was 32.5mm and the bolts (center to center were 75mm. I'll still willing to get it from you anyway though. I'm hearing you on that hose idea. I'll head over to my Napa and see if they'll let me browse through their hose stash for a close match. I was just a little concerned about the step up in diameter between the rad and the outside of that housing inlet.
3g82 U15v video I can't find out where this oil pressure sensor threads into the block. After looking the pdfs it seems like it's on the intake side near the back. Maybe after I put the engine mounts on there'll only be 1 spot left. (Right now there's about 5)
coolant out the exhaust. So I have some good news and some bad. It's alive. A quick turn of the key and it sparked up (after I realized the distributer was 180 out of phase out). So I let it run about 2 minutes without coolant. I promise you it was no longer than that. After that, I put water in it because I knew I'd be draining it once everything checked out. Everything did not check out. After about 5 minutes with water it started running rough. I thought it was a vaccuum prob until I saw water coming out the tailpipe. Where in the @#&@%^$# could that water be coming from? I'm ready to write a suicide note in bearing grease and slit my wrists.
are you sure it's not residual water in the pipes from the teardown?? I made that mistake last summer with a camero in my garage. we had the heads off three times and back to machineshop before we realized that it was just blowing out old coolant in the exhaust...:frustration:
I think you were right again, Dan. I don't see any water anymore. I thought I had a major vacuum leak but it was the idle mix (forgot I'd played with it when rebuilding the carb).
White spark plugs Latest drama, A very white plug. I read on the net that a white plug is caused by: 1) incorrect spark plug. (it's the same plug as before) 2) low octane fuel (putting in 89 or 91 I think) 3) Incorrect timing (I set it to 6 deg. but vacuum advance takes it WAY higher.) 4) Cooling problem (it is running a 3rd up the heat meter under long loads) 5) Carb too lean (didn't change jets. any other way it could lean out?) 6) Leaking or no oil. (I KNOW I have oil) Do guys have any input?
that very white plug is a barely used plug... I think its the light brown spot that you should be reading. thats normal from the fuel burning. if your ceramic was coated and ashy white, then start looking for what caused that.
You know when there's so many things that could be wrong speculation takes over? My van has no power at all, it's lurching bad until it gets way up in the revs. I don't know if it's my crappy carb rebuild, vacuum hose blunder, or timing problem. So scared of melting my new engine.
i doubt it's the carb. the plug reads good. what does your timing curve look like? is it advancing gradually from idle? Are all of the plugs firing? pull the wires off of the cap one at a time and see if they are each pulling the same load. how about belt timing?? i've missed by one tooth many times and have seen many others do it here. Everything looks perfect until you lock down the tensioner. I deliberately set the lower pulley off by one tooth so that when the tensioner pulls out the slack, it rollls everything in to position.
I had set my timing to 6 degrees as per your manual. Vacuum advanced worked good. But with it disconnected my timing would dance all over the place during mid-range RPM and then finally advance at high rpm. The problem was it was stuck at 10 degrees after the revs. I tore things apart, soaked it in WD40 and worked the weights around to try to loosen things up. Didn't seem to make a difference. I've never gotten this far into this stuff before. I'm more of a swapper than a fiddler. Oh well.. Here's the guts for your enjoyment. The van runs "ok" at them moment.... and I just spent $750 on the rear diff but that's for another thread.
My Mitz has been running like crap. I never did get it running right after the rebuild... It started overheating the other day. I have 4000km on rebuild, rebuilt radiator and antifreeze. I open up the cap and the coolant is brown!!! WTF? I've had intake vacuum nightmares and pray to baby jesus oil can get into my water in another way than a blown headgasket. I need the mitz for my service company so I couldn't afford to take it off the road. But this is too much. I have a feeling that I've roasted my new engine. It never had any power and never got over 20mpg. **** this ****. I'm going megasquirt.
Well I'm heading back to Canada to try to get the van running. Last time I drove it the thing ran like crap. I'm going to give the Mikuni side draft carb a whirl.... I'd like to get another distributor. Can anyone help me find one? I hear there are two types... one has a snap on cap and the other is bolt on. Please!
If you are getting water into the crankcase and think the head gasket is ok check the freeze plugs in the head.I had a Suzuki dumping water into the oil and that's what I found.There are 2 of them on the Suzuki head.
there is an o-ring that belongs in here. I've grown up with variations of mitsubishi engines, mostly turbo, but have had some as old as 1973, the similarities I see with the 3G82 and the other families of Mitsubishi engines brings a smile to my face because it means parts are very readily available... if you know where to look. This is the part number of the o-ring: 0394003 You can buy it from Rock Auto for $1 http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=476685&cc=1205570 or you can go down to your local autoparts store and ask them for the water pump o-ring for a 1991 mitsubishi eclipse... Or any of these vehicles: CHRYSLER DAYTONA (1990 - 1993) CHRYSLER DYNASTY (1988 - 1990) CHRYSLER LEBARON (1990 - 1995) CHRYSLER NEW YORKER (1988 - 1989) CHRYSLER SEBRING (2001 - 2004) CHRYSLER TC MASERATI 1991 CHRYSLER TOWN & COUNTRY (1990 - 1992) DODGE CARAVAN (1987 - 1998) DODGE CHALLENGER (1978 - 1979) DODGE COLT (1971 - 1994) DODGE COLT 100 (1989 - 1992) DODGE COLT 200 (1989 - 1992) DODGE COLT DL (1984 - 1990) DODGE COLT E (1984 - 1989) DODGE COLT GL (1990 - 1992) DODGE COLT GT (1989 - 1990) DODGE COLT PREMIER (1985 - 1988) DODGE COLT VISTA (1984 - 1991) DODGE DAYTONA (1990 - 1993) DODGE DYNASTY (1988 - 1993) DODGE GRAND CARAVAN (1988 - 1998) DODGE MINI RAM (1987 - 1988) DODGE RAIDER 1989 DODGE RAM 50 (1990 - 1991) DODGE SPIRIT (1989 - 1994) DODGE STEALTH (1991 - 1996) EAGLE SUMMIT (1989 - 1996) EAGLE TALON (1990 - 1998) HYUNDAI ACCENT (1995 - 2003) HYUNDAI ELANTRA (1992 - 1995) HYUNDAI EXCEL (1986 - 1994) HYUNDAI SCOUPE (1991 - 1995) HYUNDAI SONATA (1989 - 1996) MITSUBISHI CORDIA (1983 - 1988) MITSUBISHI ECLIPSE (1990 - 1999) MITSUBISHI EXPO (1992 - 1995) MITSUBISHI EXPO LRV (1993 - 1994) MITSUBISHI GALANT (1985 - 1998) MITSUBISHI MIRAGE (1985 - 1996) MITSUBISHI PRECIS (1987 - 1994) MITSUBISHI TREDIA (1983 - 1988) PLYMOUTH ACCLAIM (1989 - 1995) PLYMOUTH ARROW (1976 - 1980) PLYMOUTH CHAMP (1979 - 1982) PLYMOUTH COLT (1993 - 1994) PLYMOUTH COLT VISTA 1992 PLYMOUTH GRAND VOYAGER (1988 - 1996) PLYMOUTH LASER (1990 - 1994) PLYMOUTH SAPPORO (1978 - 1979) PLYMOUTH SUNDANCE (1992 - 1994) PLYMOUTH VOYAGER (1987 - 1996)
The ignition module in there is a J170 or J170A and can also be bought locally by looking up a MAZDA 323 (1986 - 1994) Sorry if this info has been covered before, I just keep seeing things that i know.
Hi guys, I am a total newbie here, with a Taiwan-specific Mitsu Minica (or Towny) It doesn't even translate properly, what they call it here. I know it's a 3 cylinder 800CC 1989 car, engine 3G82 I will save you the full story for now, but I have more issues then hairs on my head. I really need a new head gasket, rotor and distributor cap. I also need a thermostat (already got the thermostat housing) Can't find a supplier here in Taiwan (believe it or not) Could anyone please, please tell me where I can order these parts? Please email me at info@ohlins.tw, or send me a PM, if you can help out. Thanks already! Stan
Hi guys, By now, i have found and replaced the head gasket, but I am still looking for a distributor cap and rotor. Also, most importantly, I need a repair kit for my carburetor. It is a U19 car, but I can't find anything anywhere. Please help! Stan
