Ol im pretty new to mini trucks got one about a month ago and a couple weeks ago it started running a little rough at low rpm at a higher rpm ran good not knowing what ot would be i replaced the spark plugs and checked coil packs by unplugging each one while running to see if it made any difference pack one made no difference at all 2&3 it would just about die ok thought pack 1 must be bad so just to check it a little more switched packs 1&2 unplug 1 no difference unplug 2&3 tries to die well didnt understand that so checked power to pack 1 and was getting power at one of the 3 prongs at plug dont kbow if thats right or not so went ahead and drove it ran a lot better with new plugs drove probably 20 miles yesterday ran good whole time came home shut it off this morning wont start sprayed either in intake no fire so thinking spark issues not knowing very much at all avout these dont really know what to do now checked all wiring i could find thinking something got unplugged or something couldnt find anything. Any one have any advice? Any help greatly appreciated
Update worked on it a couple hours tonight and found that it is getting spark just wont fire on either for some reason un hooked fuel line and went to turn it over to see how much fuel it was getting.and it started right up and ran til it burnt the little bit of fuel that was left in the line hooked the line back up and it wont start unhook it again and starts and runs until fuel in line is gone so maybe a fuel regulator giving it to much gas? I unplugged the sensor on the top of throttle body and it runs after messing with it for a while i plugged it back in with it running and it stayed running and runs pretty good but seem like its getting a little too much gas still has some blue-blackish smoke out of tail pipe when you rev it up. Would that be a mafs and be bad? any other ideas? Thanks
Can only get it to start if i unplug sensor on top of throttle body and unkook fuel line and hook it back up then crank on it for a long time what is that sensor called?
I feel your pain brother. Way worse when you figure out the problem then can't find the parts. I love my mini truck but if it breaks down it can be a nightmare and there aren't enough people here to help
I talked to a couple techs that work at mini truck dealer ships who were nice enough to give some suggestions and i checked the compression and cylinder 2&3 were at 120 but 1 was only 80 i checked it wet too and it raised to 90 so i think its valve related? Haven't had a chance to call the tsch back and talk it over with him yet but he mentioned something about it being a variable timing engine and since it runs warm maybe its stuck on warm? Not knowing anything about these i guess i will have to wait and see what the tech says. Maybe just needs valve adjustment?
Well i think i got it figured out the valves on the intake side were too tight got them in specs and all seems well.
leak down would tell you more then just a compression test. also do the 210 have shim and buckets. it should still start. low compression the engine would just make less power.
Yes it does have shims. Idk much about these but like i said i got the intake valves in specs and its been firing right up and running great. I do think i will end up having to have new valves or just put a new complete head on it some time though because some of them were way off the smallest recommended shim was too big i ground them to get the clearance needed but i am thinking the valves have recessed that far into head but like i said idk too much about these so im kind of guessing
25Mm and i bought an engine repair manual and it gives a list of available shims that are specifically For the truck and the shims i had to take a lot off of ended up being smaller than the smallest the book listed is why i say i think valves are about shot but i could be wrong
25mm is a common shim size for older bikes. how thin a shim did you need? yamaha sells shims down to 2.0 mm Pad, Adjusting (2.00) 26H-12168-00-00
If i remember right was 2.5 and i probably should have gone that route. u dont think that is a sign of excessive wear?
looks like hond cb's from late 70's early 80's have what you need at about 5 bucks each http://www.sudco.com/25valveshims.html http://www.ronayers.com/oemparts/a/hon/506f8d91f8700229747b9636/camshaft-valve 13 SHIM, TAPPET (2.30) 14901-422-000 13 SHIM, TAPPET (2.35) 14903-422-000 13 SHIM, TAPPET (2.40) 14905-422-000 13 SHIM, TAPPET (2.45) 14907-422-000 13 SHIM, TAPPET (2.50) 14909-422-000 13 SHIM, TAPPET (2.55) 14911-422-000 13 SHIM, TAPPET (2.60) 14913-422-000 13 SHIM, TAPPET (2.65) 14915-422-000 13 SHIM, TAPPET (2.70) 14917-422-000 13 SHIM, TAPPET (2.75) 14919-422-000 13 SHIM, TAPPET (2.80) 14921-422-000 13 SHIM, TAPPET (2.85) 14923-422-000 13 SHIM, TAPPET (2.90) 14925-422-000 13 SHIM, TAPPET (2.95) 14927-422-000 13 SHIM, TAPPET (3.00) 14929-422-000 13 SHIM, TAPPET (3.05) 14931-422-000 13 SHIM, TAPPET (3.10) 14933-422-000 13 SHIM, TAPPET (3.15) 14935-422-000 13 SHIM, TAPPET (3.20) 14937-422-000 13 SHIM, TAPPET (3.25) 14939-422-000 13 SHIM, TAPPET (3.30) 14941-422-000 13 SHIM, TAPPET (3.35) 14943-422-000 13 SHIM, TAPPET (3.40) 14945-422-000 13 SHIM, TAPPET (3.45) 14947-422-000 13 SHIM, TAPPET (3.50) 14949-422-000
THANKS i am goin to get some of those ordered whats your opinion on the valves do you think they are excessively worn or not that bad yet?
I dont know the limits would have to read into it more. Also for future before you grind them usually the service department at most motorcycle shops will swap shims for free
Thanks for the advice i tried a local shop was going to buy a 25mm shim kit but after a half hour of waiting and the guy finally telling me he could get it but hed have to look and see how much it was and went on to help someone else i left.
