so. I drove to work without any issues sputtering or anything of the sort. plugged in the truck(inline coolant heater and oilpan heater). after work 12 hrs later truck wouldn't start. (-5C.. not very cold)motor will turn over but not "ignite"... Bad fuel? towed it home. I found the butterfly valve fully open, it can be pushed lightly to shut but springs wide open if you let it go.. spark is getting to the plugs, fuel is getting to the carb sprayer(not plugged). starter works.... have I missed something? is there a fuse somewhere I don't know about? I will check the status of the timming belt later today. any hints/pointers would be awesome.
Pull dist. and look at contacts/rotor, could have oxidation build up. Plugs could very well have spark but weak if they have build up or wore down. Most of the time you can clean them up and run till you get a new Dist. cap if that's what it is.
awesome idea will look at that. thanks Update: looked.. there was some ice buildup on the lower terminal point, not sure how water got in there. cleaned up but still no vehicle start. also still trying to rectify this wide open choke issue...
im experiancing a similar issue with my 93 3g83 ran great after a complete rebuild and now i have lost power on initial roll of the truck or going up a hill no bottom end power in the truck unless you rev the engine and pop the clutch. it does get a little better when the truck is warm but not by much distributor is new and clean plugs i have checked timing is good no vacuum leaks (checked with carb cleaner per another post) choke seems to be operating fine. occasionally ill get some dieseling as the truck is shut down i have an aftermarket fuel pump in it and it has run fine on it thus far the pump does have the correct psi but I'm not sure if I'm pumping too much fuel in it or not i have been told that the trucks have a overflow that pumps back to the tank when too much fuel is dumped in the carb. am i missing something here or am i going to have to suck it up and let a real mechanic take a look?
Possible water in fuel that's one thing I have not done yet is to drain the tank haven't checked the valves yet fuel filter is new however I will replace it upon draining the tank the truck hasn't even had a full tank run through it sence it has been rebuilt. I'll knock all this out hopefully by the weekend thanks for your input
ya im checking for water from condensate in the tank, already added gasline antifreeze, and in a couple days it'll be +4C (4 degrees above freezing)outside. if she starts then... well it be water and never let my tank drop below 1/2 during the winter. will also check timing belt on that day as well to see if its loose.
so it warmed up to -3C and I replaced the spark plugs and sprayed a little either in each cylinder before putting the plugs back in. started up. im thinking I may have had some ice built up in the fuel line somewhere and it finally freed itself as it got closer to 0C degrees. but I still have a big issue with the choke. set screw is backed off all the way and choke flap is wide open, shouldn't it be closed? it doesn't react when depressing the throttle or am I just brain dead and I have it set wide open?
so it warmed up to -3C and I replaced the spark plugs and sprayed a little either in each cylinder before putting the plugs back in. started up. im thinking I may have had some ice built up in the fuel line somewhere and it finally freed itself as it got closer to 0C degrees. but I still have a big issue with the choke. set screw is backed off all the way and choke flap is wide open, shouldn't it be closed? it doesn't react when depressing the throttle or am I just brain dead and I have it set wide open?
Choke butter fly should be closed when cold. Not sure where the cold choke adjustment is on Mits. On the other trucks(SUZ/Daihatsu) Ive never seen the adjustment screw backed off all the way. Im thinking on the Mits the choke adjust. screw is facing the rear of truck and Idle screw is on the side facing front of truck if its like the other models. Hopefully someone with a Mits. will chime in.
ive purposefully adjusted the screw all the way back , then all the way opposite(it came out) this had NO effect on the valve., both the idle and the choke are on the carburetor on the side facing the rear of the truck(very little room). I haven't tried adjusting the idle speed yet as I didn't think it would effect that valve. i'll try that today. and find/ replace the choke screw
There was a post one time where a guy was missing a spring on the choke assy. There's a couple of springs in that choke assy. Once in a blue moon the assy. gets dirt/junk around the springs that keeps them from functioning. Might try and lube things up. Can you move the choke flap? Also the choke assy. functions by receiving coolant fluid from engine. You will see two coolant lines on bottom that feed carb. Often times these two lines are stopped up and prevent choke from operating fully. The crap that comes out of them is like puddy and blocks off the circulation of coolant.
the choke flap does move easily if I put finger pressure on it. I will clean and lube the spring area and open up that coolant line and see if there is anything there.
so I've cleaned out the area that the coolant lines go, still similar issues, I believe its has everything to do with the choke(I did find and replace the screw. the valve still stays open, I've cleaned and lubed all moving components on the carburetor. valve remains open.. not sure what else I can do.
if i use my fingers to close the choke valve the truck will start fine, im considering a manuel choke but have no ide how to go about it... or i can install my carberator from the old engine, its valve seems to work perfectly. the minitruck store guys says something inside my carb is causing the valve to stick open and its non repairable....... so he says...
It also has to do with choke pulling the right amount of vacuum off the intake manifold. Check you lines. If its a older truck replace all the vacuum lines if they are hard. Simple fix. It could be something else as simple, like a pcs. of trash or like the above statement something not right mech. inside(doubt it). 1) If the old carb. is the same easy fix if it works alright. 2) Have it rebuilt 360.00. 3) Get new rebuilt carb. from Japan 285.00 plus shipping 60.00. 4) Get a carb. kit and do it yourself 100.00 + -. I'd go back and check all the vacuum lines first. Follow all the lines coming off of carb. Some will t off and go to air box some will circle around and tie into intake manifold some will run down to front diff.
check the alinement marks on the choke side of the carb and see if they line up i ended up pulling my carb and in the process of taking before pictures i noticed the marks were not aligned on the choke side. loosened the nut and corrected the alignment issues and proceeded to deep clean my carb which had all kinds of stuff in it that shouldn't have been their. still don't know how it was running with all that was in it. other than still using excessive amount of fuel (mpg) the truck is running great now
turns out my issue is not the carb... but rather the ignition source, i guess it doesn't function so well in the cold. new one on order!
U ever get this sorted? I'm having a very similar issue. -10c, won't start. Spark and compression, plugs are wet. Cleaned the points of the dizzy cap, started right up. Put a new cap and rotor button on. No start again. Thought maybe I fouled the plugs, heated with a torch and it started, although missing badly. Put some new plugs in and some fresh fuel with gas line deicer. Started right up and ran great. After hitting a big bump, it started missing again. Came back around after 5kms or so. Hit another bump and it died. Let it sit for 10mins and it started and ran enough to get me home, but barely. Any ideas? I'm about to drop the fuel tank and drain, as there is no drain plug. Virtually rust free truck, I have a hard time believing there would be a hole in the top of the tank to let water/slush in but I'm running out of ideas
Hard to describe. Grounds are good. It will still run but only at an idle or with 1/4 throttle. Any more and it falls on its face, over a few kms it gets to the point where it won't even pull along in 1st regardless of throttle position, then it dies and I am stranded. When it happens, it seems like maybe just sitting for 20 mins gets it running again. I pulled the fuel tank and shook every drop out into a clean white opaque bucket expecting copious amounts of water. Instead the fuel looks very aerated. Was clear when I first dumped it in the bucket but after sitting for an hour, I slightly bumped the bucket and it went totally cloudy. I know this sounds as if I've been around the fumes too long. I can't see the bottom of the bucket with a high intensity trouble light, where after i sloshed it into the bucket i could. Almost like that trick where you put a beer in the freezer then hit it and it freezes instantly. Anyways, I put fresh fuel in and am hoping for the best, but still dubious as whether or not this gas is the culprit.
