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1992 Daihatsu Atrai, Port Saint Lucie Florida

Discussion in 'Introductions' started by Mkguyvr, Apr 13, 2014.

  1. mad659

    mad659 Member

    Actually 3/8" would be safer to use. I guess 5" of clearance would be fine in Florida, not so good in Puerto Rico. Are the wheels 13"?
     
  2. Mkguyvr

    Mkguyvr Member

    The wheels are 15 inch with a low profile tire, and the van i lowered 3 inches. I will be putting together the parts for the swap pretty soon, thanks.
     
  3. Mkguyvr

    Mkguyvr Member

    I picked up the discs last night , looks like they will be a great fit (98 Mits Mirage) $19.99 each,Thanks for the info. Calipers are a bit pricey but at least I can get them $85 a piece. I need to find a Daihatsu drum to do the conversion on one wheel to make sure I can get it done before I cut my drums.
    I go the drive shaft back today, shortened 8 inches overall, i took a 1/4 inch off of the front of the yoke to get the splines to mate 100%, they were only mated 3/4 of an inch of the total 1 inch of splines. Should never see more than an 1/8 inch of travel fore and aft due to the suspension being lowered.
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  4. mad659

    mad659 Member

    Nice work on the driveshaft, should be plenty strong for that engine too. Look out for those calipers on ebay, they go from 30 something most of the time. They are about $38 here if you have a core. Can't wait to see the van running.
     
  5. Mkguyvr

    Mkguyvr Member

    Yeah good idea, the core is $45 here caliper is $35. Was up late having some fun last night with the gauge cluster harness, extending it to the dash....
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    Only about 70 more wires to go!
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  6. mad659

    mad659 Member

    What are you crying about? It looks soooo easy! haha.
     
  7. Mkguyvr

    Mkguyvr Member

    Lol, do we have a volunteer? Just finished it up anyways, about 7 hours total.
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  8. mad659

    mad659 Member

    See, not hard at all. I rewired a Honda civic many years ago that had a bullet go thru the main harness (long story). That was a real PITA! Yours ended up looking nice, good work. As a side note I got complete Hyundai front brakes yesterday for $50. They aren't as simple as the mirage discs but what fun would that be? I would have started the conversion last nite but my lathe is down.I will send you some pics once I get it going. There CAM00193.jpg CAM00194.jpg is enough clearance with a 13" rim so you should have no problem with the 15" rims you have. In the meantime here is what they look like:
     
  9. mad659

    mad659 Member

    I have no idea why the thumbnail ended up in the middle of the post!!!????? lol.
     
  10. Mkguyvr

    Mkguyvr Member

    I hope the calipers tuck up in there, i now have to find a drum to do the first conversion on, I dont want to cut my set until I know it will go smoothly, I still want to be driving this thing until i get the discs done. You dont have any extra 2wheel drive s80 front drums laying around do you?
     
  11. mad659

    mad659 Member

    If I had them I would ship them to you already cut and all just to see them running on you van. I have a 2nd truck on which I am doing all the experimenting on. Ebay maybe?
     
  12. Mkguyvr

    Mkguyvr Member

    I was able to take advantage of the thicker upper mounts due to how they lined up, these will also aid in aligning the engine in the frame, they seen to be the only symmetrical mounting points on the engine and happened to line up with the main support beam under the seat. I will be making a similar mount for the rear like this as well.
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  13. mad659

    mad659 Member

    That looks really good, looks like a good mounting point for the engine. Being the structural freak that I am, I would suggest some type of diagonal brace for the tubes holding the motor. Maybe something going up at an angle from the motor mount to that angle iron or the frame to form some type of cradle. That way you can make sure those tubes won't sway or try to bend sideways under torque. Just a thought if you hadn't considered it already.
     
  14. Mkguyvr

    Mkguyvr Member

    I worked on the rear mounts today. Got the engine mounted enough to put the van on the ground, its a little lower than I hoped
    (3 inches of clearance) I lowered it 3 inches a few months back so I may have to undo the lowering job to get to my target clearance of 5 inches, the stock Goldwing has 4.9 inches of clearance with out a rider.
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  15. mad659

    mad659 Member

    That motor ain't going nowhere, that was what I was trying to point out,nice motor mounts! I guess if you moved the motor up more, it would involve a lot of sheet metal work on the inside of the floor. Probably ending up with a largish hump in the middle? At least you have a low COG on that van. What mig welder are you using?
     
  16. Mkguyvr

    Mkguyvr Member

    Yeah i dont want the engine any higher because the output shaft is at the correct height. My welder is a miller 140 autoset, i use to have a Miller 251 but sold off my fabrication tool when i closed my shop. The 140 is 120 volt but welds like my larger machine did and i dont weld anything ove 1/4 inch anymore. The auto set feature is nice but i dont use it, it welds better if you personally dial it in. Ive had the little lincolns but they dont even come close to this little Miller. Also using stargon gas.
     
  17. mad659

    mad659 Member

    I hear ya, got a Miller 210 and I absolutely love it. I upgraded from a Century 145 which I abused for several years and it was a huge difference. Auto set is perfect for me since the voltage is on the low side where I live, it's usually spot on. When you say the drive shaft is at the correct height what angle are you looking at, 5- 10 degrees? Most drive shafts can work at some degrees, who knows if you can tuck up the motor more and tilt the engine down towards the rear? Anyways that van is gonna kick some bootie any way you look at it.
     
  18. mr.mindless

    mr.mindless Member

    The key to driveshafts is that the operating angles match on each end. To oversimplify slightly, the plane of the crankshaft and the angle of the pinion should be within a degree or two.

    Considering the power here and a leaf spring suspension, up to about 3° of pinion up would probably be useful to keep things aligned under power (when it's more important) due to axle wrap.

    Of course it's very easy to change the angle of the pinion to match as needed, either by rotating the perches about the tubes or using degree shims.
     
  19. Mkguyvr

    Mkguyvr Member

    The setup i am using is like Mindless is saying, i measured 2* - on the tail shaft and 2*+ on the differential. the shafts are parallel, looking down from a top view the tail shaft and the pinion are parallel as well. It rotates freely without any signs of a problem.
     
  20. mad659

    mad659 Member

    Sounds good, plus the suspension on those should be a short travel anyway. I have seen drive shafts with a lot more angle than that. My point was concerning the ground clearance, you could still probably mount that motor higher if you needed to and still have a good drive shaft angle. I am wondering what the 0 to 60 would be on this thing!
     
  21. Mkguyvr

    Mkguyvr Member

    I checked the rear end gear, its looks like 3.63, between 3 1/2 turns and 3 3/4 turns on the shaft to one on the tire. The stock Goldwing is a 2.93 if im not mistaken. The tire on the van is about a 22.32 inch circumference, the Goldwing is 24.5 -26 depending on the series. The gear calculator on Summit put the mph at redline (6000rpm)@ 109.8, Goldwing at 146.27 , here is the link, just check which one you want to know and fill in the other 3 and it will calculate for you. In this instance i wanted to know MPH so i check that, i gave the Gear Ratio, RPM, and Tire Circumference. Says I will be running 3300 rpm at 60 MPH, I have used this before and it is very accurate. http://www.summitracing.com/expertadviceandnews/calcsandtools/gear-ratio-calculator
     
  22. Mkguyvr

    Mkguyvr Member

    Almost done with the mounts, just have to finish the front cross member frame mounts.
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    Last edited: Apr 30, 2015
    greg0187 likes this.
  23. Mkguyvr

    Mkguyvr Member

    Finished the engine mounts last night, on the the easy stuff now.
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  24. mad659

    mad659 Member

    For all the folks out there who have never done any type of engine conversion, that is how you do it. Great example of a cradle engine mount. Braced correctly and mounted on bushings. Really nice work.
     
  25. Mkguyvr

    Mkguyvr Member

    Thanks mad659, i appreciate the compliment.
    I got the fuel system completed today, ran the extended wire harness up to the dash to the gauge cluster, plumbed the coolant lines, mounted the clutch master and ran the hydraulic line to the engine. Whats left to do.... finish the exhaust, wire up the fuel pump to the Goldwing harness, wire the fuel sending unit, mount the key switch, build a switch plate for the on/off start and reverse switches, fabricate the shift linkage, clean up the electrical harness under the van, bleed the clutch, fill with coolant, probably forgetting a couple things.
     
  26. mad659

    mad659 Member

    5 point harness, wheelie bar, rear parachute... almost there. lol.
     
    Mkguyvr likes this.
  27. Mkguyvr

    Mkguyvr Member

    Not to much to update but, I got the clutch bled (PITA) took about an hour and a mighty vac with 2 people, the reservoir was so small that i would have to have a buddy constantly filling it to keep from pulling air. Wired the fuel pump into the wire harness, wired the fuel gauge into the harness, dont know how accurate it is yet but I had a half tank before I parked it and it shows a half tank now on the Honda gauge. Put a flush valve in at the highest point in the cooling system to be able to burp the system. Mothers day is this weekend so I wont get much done except in little increments during the week, Sundays are my most productive days due to it being my only day off.
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  28. Mkguyvr

    Mkguyvr Member

    I am working on the linkage for the shifter now. Will look something like this, add some mounting plate in there though. Im using the original foot shifter just with the toe part cut off, its already been a proven system, im just making the dog bone longer and mounting my cable to it.
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  29. Mkguyvr

    Mkguyvr Member

    I finished the shifter linkage tonight, should be able to test drive it this weekend.
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    Auto darken on my helmet was messed with, welded a little further than i needed lol.
     
  30. Mkguyvr

    Mkguyvr Member

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